wolverine

pm sent

i'll keep an eye out for you.

there is not much chance you would pick up a powerfc and tune it under $1500 so no question the best way to go for you.

maybe so...but Captain Obvious says "direct replacement injectors" the best option.

the shell refinery in sydney is going down for more maintenance again until around march next year. they will be importing fuel from asian refineries (singapore?!)

same experience, the bellmouth made more power everywhere than a name brand split dump.

once you consider the cost of wiring the EMU in it is hard to see how it is cheaper or more tunable. there is only one relatively simple mod required to run a powerfc perfectly on the RS4S (ie. correct voltage feed to pin 51) but otherwise it is still plug and play and will start and run the car hot cold etc. there is otherwise no complex changes to the loom. with the addition of a datalogit the powerfc is laptop tunable for $400-500 more less if you can hunt around. if you want multiple maps the you can save as many as you want which i guess would only be handy if using race fuels but then again the commander can tip in or pull out a few degrees across the whole map anyway in the case of emergencies. trent will do a great job and the EMU will work really well but i i don't think the powerfc is inferior. how much is it costing to get the EMU supplied and installed. when you get it back you are going to be stoked. engine management with a little more boost will make it a whole lot of fun.

i am happy to be sponsored by Garrett, using their R&D budget check it all out....

hi dave i was mostly talking about internally gated applications given your issues with the garrett housings. the 0.63 should/does flow plenty for a 71mm compressor. i naturally defer to your experience with this combo.

RB25DET neo take top feed injectors. side feed injectors won't fit.

it's not like Mclaren and Ferrari will have much money left to spend. next year their pit girls will be from Maldovia and Kazakhstan...cost cutting will bite them hard.

i'm with dale i have a GT3040 with the 0.82 turbine housing ext gated on the R33. i wouldn't go down to the 0.63 with a GT3071 or GT3076 based on the positive experience i have with the delivery of the 0.82 with a "slightly too big" 82mm compressor for the street. the 0.82 is a good thing in my book and with internally gated applications seems like it might be the trouble free way to go.

$2-3 at a guess one of the traders here at SAU seems to be getting good prices on gaskets etc in the FS section

i understand that using left handed drill bits will usually get the job done so this makes the most sense to try first or at least on the way thru.

the issue is that without the factory ecu the gear changes may be harsher and that will probably speed up the wear and tear on the auto box. it will work and there are numerous threads from those that have done it and find it acceptable. nevertheless there are a few newer options like Nistune are worth considering as they retain the factory ECU. forced induction has a bit of info on Nistune.

a bit harsh ben. both vettel & bourdais were going nowhere on the grid early on......webber was handing it to them week in week out until the TR started working better. both SB and SV moved up the grid at this point.

same on mine, the engine mount needed to be trimmed.

no

to get the tomei valve clearances with 260deg type poncams we needed shims.

looks fine, if you were getting serious blow-by you would produce enough oil to soak that rag in no time.

i don't think the R34 will be noticeably laggier to be honest but the logistics of taking your turbo off and waiting for the turnaround might be an issue hence a blown R33 makes a lot of sense. the hp difference at best is usually between 5-15kw at the top end depending on who has tried the different housings. have you called GCG and ask if they will accept a deposit just in case they will. just a thought, is the whine due to a manifold gasket leak? has this been checked because you may have a pristine R34 turbo which will be worth selling whole if this is the case. when the turbo comes off it may be worth removing the manifold and replacing the studs as they usually snap over time anyway. more money but it might be worth asking the mechanic. there should be signs of a gasket leak if they inspect it.

dave i would be paying the deposit and once your turbo if off inspecting it then with the following options: 1: forwarding your one if it is knackered, or if it is ok 2. sourcing a blown one on the forum for $100ish and sending that one. ps. i wouldn't be buying your turbo at this point based on what you have said about its condition unless it was for $100 to send it off to be hi-flowed.

i for one, am raising a glass to Adam tonight. i found it hard to agree with many things that he posted but that is what made this thread the most fun week in week out.

hi dave the HKS GT-RS aka (T3 version HKSGT2871) comes with all new oil and water lines and bolts up exactly to the factory inlet and dump. the turbo would work better than the HPIAB version ie prob more top end and no decrease in response but would cost a little more as the bits are assembled and have R&D factored in. i reckon you are bolting the right turbo on if you go with something capable of around 420-450hp (flywheel) ie GCG, HKS GT-RS etc the GCG should work out to be the best value due to the "true" bolt-on nature of the turbo. good luck with it you won't be disappointed.

i don't think you need points for pole position but maybe a larger gap between P1 and P2 on the grid.