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Everything posted by wolverine
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why don't you buy a T3 flanged manifold......like the one below.
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if Fisi can circulate without threatening anything then i guess why shouldn't ralf have another go....at circulating.
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yeah but when was the last time they took the engine out of the QEII? you made the correct engine choice for a nautical application JP. :D
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Item: RB25DET cylinder head Age: Unknown Condition: Partially disassembled. Slight dent on one polished cover otherwise looks to be in very good condition. Price: $400 To Fit: Will suit RB25/30 engine rebuild Location: Hills District Sydney Contact: PM Comments: If you are thinking about building a 3L bottom end then this head is just what you are looking for. Includes polished cam covers, cams, cam gears and all nuts and bolts.
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Item: RB25DET cylinder head Age: Unknown Condition: Partially disassembled. Slight dent on one polished cover otherwise looks to be in very good condition. Price: $400 To Fit: Will suit RB25/30 engine rebuild Location: Hills District Sydney Contact: PM Comments: If you are thinking about building a 3L bottom end then this head is just what you are looking for. Includes polished cam covers, cams, cam gears and all nuts and bolts.
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Item: HKS Cast Split Pulse Manifold + HKS External Gate Age: Unknown Condition: Very Good Price: $600 To Fit: RB25 & RB20 Location: Hills District, Sydney Contact: PM Comments: HKS manifolds flow more than the standard manifold. they maintain a short runner length for quick response. the design allows you to make use of split pulse turbine housings. (discopotato03 has numerous threads on the benefits of split pulse turbines if you are interested). additionally for those looking to change their turbo to a genuine garrett item (ie. non-nissan turbine housing) a new dump pipe will be necessary anyway so why not replace your broken manifold studs and improve exhaust flow at the same time. the manifold can be used on externally gated or internally gated turbos (by blanking off the external gate port). being a cast manifold they are not prone to cracking like many other aftermarket manifolds. Reason for Sale: i have secured another one with a turbo combo that has already been port matched and extrude honed.
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Item: HKS Cast Split Pulse Manifold + HKS External Gate Age: Unknown Condition: Very Good Price: $600 To Fit: RB25 & RB20 Location: Hills District, Sydney Contact: PM Comments: HKS manifolds flow more than the standard manifold. they maintain a short runner length for quick response. the design allows you to make use of split pulse turbine housings. (discopotato03 has numerous threads on the benefits of split pulse turbines if you are interested). additionally for those looking to change their turbo to a genuine garrett item (ie. non-nissan turbine housing) a new dump pipe will be necessary anyway so why not replace your broken manifold studs and improve exhaust flow at the same time. the manifold can be used on externally gated or internally gated turbos (by blanking off the external gate port). being a cast manifold they are not prone to cracking like many other aftermarket manifolds. Reason for Sale: i have secured another one with a turbo combo that has already been port matched and extrude honed.
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the 040 has the open base, therefore no sock.
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assuming she is standard nissan issue it's sort of a shame she doesn't weigh 600kg.... ....depending on your priorities (of course).
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wasn't that still pic shown at the end of the vid link?
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hi david more or less the engine is the same as an R34 neo RB25DET. the differences are that you do not have traction control. the snorkel to the airbox is different and apart from that i haven't seen any other significant differences. suspension on the RS4S is slightly different from the autos. you have a fork end on the rear shock and larger sway bars. so if you want suspension parts you need to specify your model carefully. the group buy gear here on SAU works well when the time comes although the sway bar upgrade won't be the big step the auto guys/gals feel. my understanding is that some of the drivetrain/suspension bits were from the R33 GTR parts bin but it is a mish mash of bits. the factory sidemount is adequate for the standard turbo even if you push a little more boost through it. especially if you are still running the factory exhaust. for boost control (increasing boost) a cheap bleed valve works well for basic applications so one of these is hard to beat for the $$ spend. if you are ultimately looking for more performance then a FMIC will help keep charge temperatures down. ie cooler charge = more power ...and then the exhaust is probably going to want attention..... ....then engine management as Goldzilla has already mentioned such as a PowerFC or perhaps one of the newer generation ones that are coming through. this will allow you to make more power and potentially save on fuel use. ultimately engine management systems have the greatest capacity to reduce fuel consumption but spending $1500+ just to save a little fuel on a standard car is probably a false economy. spending on engine management to get the most performance out of each of the above modifications is great value.
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hi sturbs there are some tutorials in the DIY section that should explain it as the rear doors will be pretty similar to the fronts. the nuts and bolts of it is.... remove the screws located on the bottom side and rear edge of the door trim. probably 4-5 screws. there is probably another screw somewhere near the handle underneath a cap of some sort. the door handle surround can be pried off gently with a screwdriver but if you gently pull on the now loose door surround the the plastic door handle surround should pop straight off without any marks. you should be able to get to the speaker now. i don't have time to get pics atm but hopefully this helps.
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i can't remember my diff being looked at ever on either car. i was just curious.
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most engine oils come in 5L containers, it should take about 4.5L is there any particular reason you are touching the diff?
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nakajima was very good this race but somehow got pipped at the end by trulli, did he have a problem at the end (he seemed to slow suddenly) which is a shame not to be rewarded with the extra point.
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what was annoying about the commentary? BTW did all the transponders get returned to race control, all transponders to race control, all competitors with transponders return the transponders to race control....and in case you didn't get it the first 13 times....can competitors return the transponders to race control.
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button 15secs/lap faster on full wets. i can't believe red bull or ferrari didn't roll the dice and go to full wets.
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webber 11 cars to go for a senna-esque performance. and a fastest lap.
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56mins time 9pm tokyo time i guess
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we have been blessed this year with variable weather and a competitive grid.
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from F1 website
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i'm not convinced webber is as light as people are making out. by his tongue in cheek response to the journos, i think he may have a pretty average opening stint fuel load on board and was gobsmacked when other cars were just plain slower. he was on the pace all weekend and was very quick only the macs looked faster. now he can bog it down on the start but then work his way to a glorious win carving his way through the traffic when it rains.
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there is a DIY thread on using high temp silicon on your coil packs. go the the DIY section, buy a tube and go to town if you want to save a few $$'s. there is nothing magical about splitfires v standard coils but the heat cracks them and the result is a misfire under load. from japan my car had this issue (S2 RS4S). my R33 GTS-t lasted from 2001 until 2007 until they were stuffed. a larger higher flowing cat is worthwhile particularly if you have damaged the inside of the cat.
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webber has been on the pace in the wet and the dry this weekend.
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it was great watching your car dave. seeing the different corner entries and exits. some cars very settled and others on the raggedy edge. it reminds me of the old touring car days. different solutions to the same problem....trying to go faster. thanks to all the guys that entered.