wolverine

this forum is as good a place as any in the for sale section or with SAU traders. worth considering a re-map as they are potentially a good alternative given the fiddling around to get a powerfc running.

have you re-used the plastic hose ends? they are apparently prone to cracking and they can leak.

the boost and front torque senders might be there but not the oil temp (at a guess). battery voltage should be there though.

webber got stuck behind barrichello, heidfeld, nakajima (good drive by him). since barrichellow was heaaaavvyyy he was running around 2secs slower than the average front runner. heidfeld found a way past otherwise his race was ruined too. nakajima and webber were trapped there losing time lap after lap. webber was either too timid to stick it up the inside of nakajima or nakajima made very few mistakes in the early laps....so webber was more or less waiting for a safety car to minimise the cost of a pit stop. interestingly Kubica had no chance of passing Glock who was 2 secs a lap slower than him so i think all drivers were nervous about moving off the racing line. once he was released from traffic his times were right up there with the front runners but i think he had two spins and gave up places each time. maybe the car wasn't set up as nicely as quali or he just lost concentration due to his position on the track. once again his start was a little disappointing and given the P10 start maybe fueling it up and one stopping was the no-brainer option considering the state of the track and the likelihood of SC periods.

100km/h = 27 m/s no wonder he had the prang, things happen quickly when you are thinking about your victory speech.

ouch for hamilton, more ouch for raikkonen.

here is a link to one of legend01's topics RB21

duncan i think we fitted the noltec(i think?) ones on our car ages ago. UAS supplied and fitted. the price was pretty comparable to the whiteline caster bushes (again from memory). call JP he should be able to clarify.

legend01 has a forged RB2.1 with GT3040 turbine is 0.82. also with extrude honing of turbine, comp covers and extrude honed hks cast manifold, port matching and a tidy up of the head plus larger cams?

wet track again means another exciting race.

further to the above, the RS4S rear swaybar is a 24mm hollow vs 24mm solid from whiteline in the sydneykid GB.

if around $1800 to $2200 is expensive for a direct bolt on is expensive then you have a problem. usually costs about $300 to swap turbos at most quality workshops. the HKS turbo option allows you to sell your standard turbo for $300-400. the GCG option means you either canibalise your existing turbo or better still you find a broken one suitable for hi-flowing. some of the turbos you see on Ebay are name brand turbos BUT you then need oil and water lines, a new dump pipe, possibly spacer plates, intake piping modifications plus the cost of labour of these modifications. your $1500 turbo looks pretty pricey at the end of all this stuffing around.

legend01 is a good guy to talk to about HKS cast manifolds.

if you are in sydney and want to try another standard RS4S ECU i have one lying around.

mosley's got videos and photos of other delegates for sure.

the rear is fork type on RS4S. just order the sydneykid group buy gear. problem solved. once you set the height you will almost certainly never touch it again. if you intend going much lower than standard you are going to need more than the whiteline eccentric bushes for adjusting static camber (if you want to get reasonable tyre wear). despite sydneykid's dislike of adjustable camber arms you will probably need them.

GCG hiflow of standard turbo bolts straight on. (230-270rwkw) HKS GT-RS bolts straight on. (230-270rwkw) are the most likely bolt on turbo choices. there are so many choices depending on your power target/requirements including HKS 2835 ProS or HKS 3037ProS kits but each increase in power level = more $$'s a search of forced induction will show these threads come up a zillion times and the answers are pretty much always the same.

i'm still happy to drive it around sydney for you....(i know the answer is no but it deserves another bump) it still beats me that people are importing RS4S's and then asking what modifications they should do. this 260RS is hands down the bargain buy.

adjusting cam gears on neo's is pretty much a waste of time and money. save your money. standard turbo will run out of puff around the 200-210rwkw mark (+/- 10kw). don't need new injectors with the standard turbo and almost certainly won't need an adjustable fuel regulator (unless you believe there will be better atomisation or you are trying to work a different part of the standard ecu map). standard fuel pump should be fine for the standard turbo. nevertheless it is a cheap upgrade at some point and will ultimately be necessary for your target. look at the drop in replacement nismo pumps as they are cheap nowadays and installation is just a little quicker than a bosch equivalent. if your dad is handy with spanners etc it won't be that hard but nothing beats removing the old fuel pump cradle and dropping in the new one....job done.

perhaps a list of mods would be a good place to start. (have you installed a boost controller)

back to back a bellmouth made more power everywhere on the stagea than a name brand superduper heatwrapped split dump so you may not be taking as big a backward step going with a bellmouth as you think. spend some saved coin on a nice big catco/metalcat large bodied cat & nice 3" catback (i you haven't got one already) and bob's your mother's brother.

GT2871 with a specific HKS T3 turbine housing

what great race to watch. we are going to have a great sprint to the finish. if we could have one small shower between now and the end it will be a lottery.

Fisi on fire in quali.

nice work mikey (although the 13psi bit will be getting people a little concerned about the potential lifespan of the turbo). have you got the swaybars installed? if not we need to find you some 24mm D rubbers....