wolverine

on the series 2 stagea we are maxed out on standard adjustment and it has about 1 3/4 degrees at 370mm. (sorry its early and i don't have the precise numbers at hand).

hey mike what would your missus be doing in chef stagea's car?

there is a monster thread here from a US BMW forum that is worth a read. RearMountTurboBMW

actually the 023 is the intank version of the 044. the 040 flows less. if you can modify the bracket by bending or cutting the factory metal pipes, locate the 044 the correct height on the bracket, install a sock on the bottom (additional parts), rotate the clamps on the bracket until they don't fowl inside the tank in under 20 mins you have done well. most workshops will hit you up for more than 20mins but i agree it can be done (like most things with familiarity). the 023 won't need the sock and should mount lower on the bracket and should be less likely to fowl inside the tank. the nismo one is definitely quicker since you just swap brackets. i reckon most people spend more than 20mins trying to get that bloody black ring threaded properly. any of these pumps will be a good thing.

023 same pump as the 044 but with the open end (like 040). 044 may be an external pump in the catalogue but i think this relates to the fitting on the bottom. plenty of them mounted in tank out there. still more work to install than a nismo so either quick easy install vs slightly more fiddly (+ higher labour cost)

can you be more precise about what changes are they making to the covers?

do you want me to advertise it in sydney by driving it around?

it would be a nasty projectile if things went to shit.

i have one that was fitted to the stagea. due to an intake change it has come off. if you want it let me know it will be cheaper than buying a new one and should bolt straight up as the trimming has already been done. (they need a little trim to fit them).

x2 HKS cast manifold

GCG hiflow HKS GT-RS HKS 2835ProS HKS 3037ProS all of these come as bolt on or in kit form (straight bolt on). or some hybrid garrett/nissan turbine housing ie 3071 in nissan turbine housing (bolt on afaik) vanilla garrett T3 based GT2871 3071 or 3076 but more modifications to fit (dump oil and water lines) what else do you need? spend saturday doing some searches on the above and the answers are all there.

yes, powerfc has a menu to change AFM's. it should bolt in like on any S2 and runt he car but yours should/may/might not need any other modification as i would guess the loom will be identical with traction control to the R34 GT-t so no engine check light (after you switch off the boost control kit on the powerfc menu).

it seems to come down to the plug. the R34 PowerFc seems the go for S2 and for some S1, although Duncan has found there are 3 variants on the S1 see below.

can you get specifics on what they fix please.

Goldzilla is spot on a powerfc with a shift kit would be the way to go alternatively and possibly a better option for an auto is chipping the factory ecu eg. Nistune or see Toshi's advert in the classifieds section.

the issue is that the R34 powerfc pin 51 is for the R34 traction control. when there is no signal it throws an engine check light. the "secret squirrel" tweak is to send approx 3.6v (or whatever it is) to the powerfc thus turning off the check light. on a S2 stagea with traction control it will probably just bolt in and work.

hi RPMGTR can you elaborate on tuning with regard to ign timing. if the ign timing is in the teens on boost with your tunes is it possible some other workshops are balancing boost and fuel levels differently and therefore increasing timing to compensate? or is it always when base timing is set incorrectly?

more boost will use a different part of the map. higher boost will equate with higher load so the intercepted cell (load is higher from top to bottom of the map, rpm is left to right) should be down lower on the map at the same rpm point. changing the type of fuel would mean more timing advance (at the least) hence different maps for Duncan's car.

if you are keen for multiple maps you could always invest in a datalogit. although you can control boost with your right foot day in day out so a good tune should take care of day to day driving on the one boost setting. if you are using race fuel etc then you could upload the higher state of tune from the datalogit in no time. datalogits cost about USD$500 but with parity of the dollar it is pretty reasonable. i picked one up second hand recently for a bit cheaper. this would also allow dalalogging and you could add a wideband and monitor or modify AFR's particularly handy on low load/cruise.

edit

hi decimate my R33 certainly made some gains mid and top end at or around 4deg retarded. (seems worthwhile changing to an adjustable exh. cam gear if you are replacing the timing belt since you are already in there) the neo powered stagea only lost power up top. if you are trying to move the curve around they will do something but if you are looking to make more top end i suspect you will spend money better saved towards cams.

from raikkonen there was only 0.7 of a second to heidfeld in 9th. it doesn't look like renault found 2secs. maybe 0.5sec max but allowing for light fuel load +/- 0.2sec

the revised mass damper etc seems to have closed the gap but i reckon he will be first to stop. he appeared to be very light and besides it gave the crowd something to cheer. presumably he will get off the line pretty well and beat raikkonen for first lap honours.

sorry i don't know how i missed your sig. powerfc the best choice. straight swap will do everything you want it to do. no messing around with cutting and splicing into to the loom. all the cold start stuff loaded in from factory. much more. should be under $1500 installed tuned. Racepace seem to have the runs on the board for tuning.

slightly smaller turbine housing but otherwise it will be a straight swap.