wolverine

thanks grant. i should only need about 0.5deg to 1.0 deg so eccentrics should do the job. how much adjustment do you get with camber arms?

hi duncan i probably wasn't very clear as i understand the basics, i was just curious about the dynamic changes to camber as the suspension compresses depending on the location of that hole.....and any practical applications of that knowledge. currently we are maxed out on camber adjustment and i am definitely looking to reduce the neg on the rear. the rear height is about 370 centre of wheel to guard so not really that low. the car has done >20,000km on the bilsteins, upgraded swaybars etc and i am looking to fine tune the handling to improve tyre wear/handling balance hence the Q about the amount of camber change with the whiteline kits. ps. grant if you want to add something specific it would be appreciated, making snide remarks isn't helping anyone.

hi guricha, do you have access to a wideband oxygen sensor? you will be better off buying or borrowing the equipment you need and then learning how to tune your own car. a datalogit makes the job much easier but you can do it with the hand controller (commander). fc-datalogit paulr33 guide is a great resource to use. i would never trust a generic powerfc tune to allow for any changes you have made. you will no doubt make more changes to your car and being able to adjust your tune with each change (especially in Georgia) would be the best.

SK, a question about standard camber adjustment on the rear. you wrote: "Having the hole on the bottom means that you get more change to negative camber as the rear end squats (under acceleration). Having the hole to the top means less change to negative camber as the rear end squats." where is the best place to leave the hole? i guess to the top if you want better traction off the line. under cornering loads is there some advantage in leaving the hole on the bottom as you get more dynamic negative camber as the suspension loads up the outside wheel. second question while i am thinking of it. one of your posts says the whiteline rear camber kit is good for 0.75 degrees but the group buy page says 0.5 deg. i guess it is the latter.

drove back from bathurst and the click is back again and so are a massive pack of poor drivers with a sense of entitlement to the right lane and probably the same group of drivers that drive 10-15km/h below the speed limit until there are two lanes and then you all know what they do next....

the clicking is gone after changing the rear tyres and changing ride heights slightly. wheel/tyre diameter change the cause of the clicking idle??

i just changed rear tyres and adjusted the ride height slightly. the click is gone. go figure. maybe it is something to do with slight wheel/tyre diameter changes associated to wear?

you already have a hollow 24mm rear sway bar on a RS4S so the whiteline upgrade isn't as large as the auto guys are getting (??19mm solid??). the whiteline bar is 24mm solid so SK may be able to give you the difference in rate from hollow to solid. just from memory it is about 20% but don't rely on this number. the amount of roll in the RS4S is much much less than the autos. the ride height seems to be the issue. i have just changed the ride heights again. i now have 352mm front and 358 ish rear. we don't have enough rear camber adjustment at that height.

legend01 is the guy that you need to ask. RB2.1 GT3040 306rwkw low mount ext gate and a few bibs and bobs. not a GT3037/3076 but a good place to start. he's selling the motor in case anyone is interested.

check in the for sale section here at SAU they come up every week or so.

just find the money for a quality turbo GCG or HKS. do it once, do it right.

RBNT, i already have a manual S2 stagea (neoRB25DET) and i can vouch for the cost of setting up something simpler than you have. i can also vouch for how good these cars are when they have been set up with this much care. this is a bargain and i would be thrilled to be in the market right now.

the 256deg poncams should bring the boost threshold down and should make more everywhere. mild head work and port matching can definitely lower the boost threshold as well. it comes down to $$'s whether you feel its worth it. total extra hp won't necesarily be massively higher maybe 15-25kw but response will be pretty hard to beat as the power curve should be moved to the left.

the relay only clicks with the engine running.

addzest = clarion

thanks chook the powerfc makes it harder to find these codes without swapping ECU's back (i guess). based on philtacular's issue 'the clicking relay' which showed a pressure switch fault then it is odds on we all have the same issue. sooo what does the pressure switch do and where is it?

i still have that infernal clicking relay. i still have no idea what triggers it. i haven't looked at the G-force sensor for orientation yet.

webber must have stepped on a lot of ants in a previous life.

done to death. a search would have been the best place to start. GCG hi-flow of standard turbo or HKS GT-RS there are numerous other options but these are the best of the entry level upgrades and provide plenty of streetable power.

you know i have the solution sitting in the garage dale.....hehe.

$3189.68 delivered from nengun.

hey beerbaron is that a look into the future of the newer greener, carbon neutral F1? romania might give poland a run for its money.

wind boost into it until it hardly makes more power. (which will probably be around 12psi +/- 1psi) drive it however you like. replace turbo when it goes bang. pretty simple. if you can't afford a replacement then be conservative in how far you push the set up and how hard you drive it.

looks like 15-18% down low gain. that should feel better using the seat-of-the-pants dyno.

i would save my money if the battery is still in working order.