wolverine

why not just buy the HKS version? bolt-on kit with everything you need ie T3 flanged, all lines, bolts on to exhaust with no mods. you get a predictable result without trying to reinvent the wheel.

thank you

SK do you still have the link for suspension settings. i can't find it on the Group Buy page.

sounds like a plan

nengun.com greenline.jp

thanks steve and dale. i will have a look at these things and see if i can find something.

i think the sard pumps are denso.

the relay is fine. i have changed it from another S2 that does not have this issue and it still clicks. something is sending a signal to it and it beats me what it is. perhaps i should take the console out and check the orientation of the g-force sensor??!?! unless someone moved something during the stereo install?

i still have that infernal clicking. how is the atessa triggered on stageas? is it a wheel sensor if so could it be faulty or incorrectly located?

i'd say $200-300

hopefully we can start the season with less pics of Flav

velcro is your friend

yeah what he said...

where exactly is that filter?

things to consider. there should be no wire on the loom for pin 51 if there is no traction control on your car. having spoken to EGA4IT and he says he has seen one car (maybe a later model with a wire in the loom). he said the zener diode is not in backward on the diagram they are reverse polarity (i hope i am translating accurately). regardless of whether you have a wire or not, you are trying to fool the ECU into thinking there is 3.7V so it 'thinks' traction control is working. if this modification is made you need to test that the voltage TO pin 51 is about 3.7V or else you have made a mistake. if the checklight is still on make sure that the boost controller is turned off on the powerfc as this is the usual reason the checklight stays on when first installed.

i'm not sure if i have them lying around if i can find them i will post them. remember GCG will be using similar stuff from the garret parts bin. ben check the pre-load on the actuator, i reckon it should be making that boost closer to 3000rpm.

ryan i have back to back dyno tested GT-RS and the GCG unit and there isn't much in it. if you saw nothing till 6000 rpm then this is an issue that is specific to that car, either tuning, exhaust or other supporting gear. standard heatshield can be modified to fit exactly as described on a GT-RS.

nengun.com or greenline.jp for japanese parts

...or you can buy a HKS GT-RS which is a 2871 based turbo with the 56 trim compressor (smaller trim comp will have lower hp rating like dale's labour of love) ultimately the GCG unit and the GT-RS are pretty close and hard to beat. there have been many turbo shops that have claimed to make something the same or better but thread after thread we see that the GCG units are well researched, well specced and deliver a good value streetable turbo. the HKS unit i think is superior based on back to back testing but for a slight price premium. i would love to see a proven result from eastern turbos that achieves what they are claiming. if they can get better response and more ponies they will sell hundreds of them.

silva this mod is to get around the powerfc throwing up and engine checklight due the traction control on R34 GT-t skylines. whether you do this mod or not everything else works fine when you plug the powerfc in on the S2 stagea. it starts runs etc no problems. on a series 1 the loom may not have a wire there but the powerfc will still need 3.7v at pin51.

HKS GT-RS bolts up to the standard factory gear and comes in a kit form with all the lines and gaskets required to bolt on to the factory exh manifold. the HKS2835ProS comes as either a turbo or in kit form (and therefore straight bolt-on to factory exh manifold) with its own lines and dump pipe (ie diff flange to standard). the dump is a short split number that replaces the factory dump and bolts onto the standard location front pipe.

legend01 is selling his RB21 and he has already made that power level if you want a proven result.

they might have modified the kit slightly, i got mine a while ago. mine fowls slightly so loosening the clamps is enough to unscrew the cap. or possibly the location of the cooler is different on yours which lifts it up the few mm's to clear the cap?

here is the plazmaman version. you need to loosen a few hose clamps to clear the oil filler, it is not difficult.

you need to decide exactly what you want. do you really want 270-290 rwkw or is this just a fat sounding number? if you want virtually stock response and something that is quick to drive around on the street (and cheap) the GCG hi-flow or GT-RS is the no brainer as they are bolt-on. cams will give you another 15-25kw but may shift the boost threshold down lower so the turbo should come on a little earlier which is a whole lot more than it sounds in practice. 250-270rwkw is about where it will top out. HKS 2835ProS more money more up top less down low (by a small fraction) SLY33 is correct (again imo) the GT-RS will struggle up top. GT3071 60mm turbine 56 trim comp similar story but a bit of stuffing around getting all the bits together, if this is not your strong suit then the HKS kit is worth paying a premium for. these should make the midrange of your target. HKS 3037 or GT30 (GT3076 in so many guises just ask 'the mafia') same story as above but shift your expectations higher more ponies less down low. HKS more cost but bolt on kit. these will exceed your target. the more you want the more it costs (often exponential). i bet you will be happy with a GT-RS and good tuning.