wolverine

i'd say you bought a sack of shit. if you want to park it in my garage to get rid of it i'd be happy to help you out...

mild compressor surge

these cams are good for around 20-25kw's everywhere with a larger than standard turbo. they seem to bring the boost threshold down, there is no loss down low, so there seems to be very little downside to bolting them in. will also suit S2 Stagea.

where is the ECU getting it's boost signal from to detect 'overboosting'?

hi pete i would think around 140-150psi would be healthy.

UniqueAutoSports is in Seven Hills would be an option in the west.

what thermostat did/do you use geoff?

HKS GT-RS meets his goal, responsive, they don't surge (although they are a close thing on paper), come on earlier than the GCG in back to back testing and will reach 250rwkw and a little more with cams. easy decision IMO.

how are you getting lower than ambient temperatures? approaching ambient is possible but below ambient temp is breaking some laws of physics (unless there is some other cooling medium being used such as water spray). it sounds like either the inlet (or ambient if you have one) sensor is not accurate.

Adrian Newey

pics? they had to re-profile mine to fit around the exhaust (RS4s). otherwise i had no other issues fitting them.

and as a mechanic you should know better that the number of cylinders is an important difference when talking about injectors (and rail pressure). back on topic, 800cc injectors are overkill for this application and smaller injectors should be a better choice. i'm sure bumblebee can help get the correct size for you.

yeah chuckles that's right allowing about 85% duty cycle at standard rail pressure. are you saying higher or lower?

bigger isn't better. buy something appropriately sized. ie. listen to what you are being told by those that KNOW what they are talking about. 800cc is good for 800hp @ the flywheel. when you rebuild your engine to cope, a new set of injectors will be the least of your worries.

barring setting base timing there is little tuning you can do to your car when standard. so dyno time will really only give you a power figure, tractive effort, AFR's and a print of where boost comes on (if you ask for some or all these things). however, if you buy some sort of engine management eg. SAFC or right through to full engine management the dyno makes tuning easier as you effectively have a rolling road, no speed limits and relatively controlled environment. cost depends on time on the dyno. that could be around $100-150/hr. if you are on a budget looking at improving your intercooler and SAFC are probably the next steps. leave the factory BOV as there will be nothing wrong with it. if you bought after-market...sell it/get refund.

VCT can make a noise around there as an outside possibility which the knock sensor may pick up. still the best bet its to pull some timing out at that load point.

i don't see how saving $20-25 per injector (ie. $120-150) is saving a heap of money but if you are comfortable with end result then that's what counts. you said getting stung for an injector clean and i wouldn't call it being stung. it's just my opinion that if they are handling them to flow test they might as well, for an incremental cost, remove the risk to engine damage.

agreed, 300rwkw is beyond the compressor.

strictly speaking the PowerFC will run ok on an auto but at the cost of slightly harsher changes and a shortened life span. the shift logic is inside the ECU, not in a separate unit, so there is a cost of going this way. Dr-Drift (and others) is offering a programmable chip that solders onto the factory ECU, so this should be the easiest option although how well it all works is hard to say as it seems to be fairly new on R33 based ECU's (or at least they have not been used that commonly). if you perform a seach in forced induction there are threads devoted to some options from PowerFC's, to these chips from DrDrift, to E-manage Ultimate.

sting you for clean injectors? sounds like the least you should do before installing 2nd hand injectors.

the 044 is bigger (longer) than the 040 just to correct a previous post.

260's seem the way to go. there appears to be more power everywhere with them so not a lot of downside if you have a larger than standard turbo.

chris may correct this but i believe engine and road noise tends to cancel bass. sound deadening is fairly straight forward DIY job. prepsol, deadening and patience for an hour or two.

greddy profec b

current nengun price delivered is $2378.55 so $2300 seems fair for a quick delivery.