wolverine

that's it lets get a CV for your pubes together and of us at SAU can petition Ch10 for a presenting spot (and an earlier timeslot for all the other races).

yes, i'm sure its in that long winded post. VG snails have smaller compressor afaik so why?

more or less, the R33 and R34 have ceramic turbines which are sensitive to temperature (and load). i presume much the same for the others however there are slight differences in the turbine housings. VG30 (single turbo) and R34 are the same size but compressors are different. R33 is slightly smaller turbine but same comp as the R34. (btw there are a few factory metal turbines but most are ceramic). the slightly larger turbine housing makes them a little more efficient and they MAY make about 10kw more due to slightly lower exhaust manifold pressure but maybe a hundred or two rpm slower to spool. if you are going to change on the cheap, buy an R33 for a direct swap on a series 1 stagea or R34 turbo for a series 2. generally prolonged loads over 12psi will lead to ceramic dust in the cat disease so leaning on the turbo harder is raising the risk. it might last 3 yrs it might last 5 minutes. if you are looking to change then look at GCG hi-flows or HKS GT-RS as the cheapest (ballbearing) alternatives and onwards and upwards from there. remembering your old turbo is probably worth about $300.

we have a GT-RS on our car and it is a nice bit of kit. slightly more power everywhere than a GCG hi-flow (but it is slightly more expensive). if money is no object the HKS 2835ProS would be pretty nice with a tiny response penalty but higher flow available on both sides of the turbo (ie more efficient). i wouldn't want anything much larger on a street stagea due to the extra weight you need to lug around. a GT30 specced correctly (or the more exxy but similar HKS 3037 ProS) with 260 deg tomei poncams to bring the boost threshold down would be ok but there is a little bit more work and time fitting a GT30. think carefully, as it is an expensive exercise buying one that doesn't suit what you want, however, don't try and do it on the cheap. ...and don't get suckered into bigger is better cos it just aint so.

neo RB25? i have seen numerous threads on neo's and no one seems to have definitively made more power with cam gears. it has moved the curve around a little but that's about it. we tried and got more bottom end but significantly compromised the top end. my R33 showed gains in the order you are describing.

you have single handedly blown out the NZ balance of payments with all that gear. just amazing!

260 deg poncams, yes. cam gears, no. it should make your target comfortably and have more grunt everywhere (compared to standard cams).

sorry i don't have it.

i say FOS

R34_pinouts.pdf try this.

check the obvious things like the spare, the jack and every nut and bolt you can wave a spanner or screwdriver over. ultimately sound deadening is worth every penny so buy a bulk pack, deaden both front doors and the boot. money and time very very very well spent.

R34 powerFc will work with out of the box but requires a minor wiring modification to get around the PFC's hunt for traction control on the R34 which, unmodified, will throw up an engine check light. there are numerous other options appearing out there all them discussed in forced induction section. HKS GT-RS or GCG hi-flow will get you close to or exceed your target hp but consider some tomei 260 deg poncams as they make more power everywhere and well worth the money.

slide can't do much more (under the current circumstances) than ask you to send it to Murnane to be repaired. i don't know what difference it makes whether you know them or not this is their attempt to meet their warranty obligations. if you send it anywhere else it is your choice and your cost. i would send it to Murnane and discuss GCG findings with them and let them fix it.

split hose x2 or loose hose clamp

i imagine it will be the stock wastegate actuator controlling boost.

o'beerous one i think webber changed to slicks on his first stop, it started raining again soon after and he had a few dicey moments so he made the call to come back in for wets (just prior to that rain he was putting in some very good times), then it dried again hence the 3rd stop which cruelled his chances. he would have wasted about 50 seconds with the 2 extra stops which more or less would have left him in front of Vettel (which might have been a dangerous place based on last week). barrichello also got caught out the same way. so a case of coulda shoulda woulda. it wasn't as bad as the pitstop after the safety car from a few races back.....

i have a virtually brand new compliance cat if this helps located in the hills area. pm sent.

fairly aggressive afr's it should be nice and responsive but is there any discernible knock? we found the turbotech a handful once you wound the boost over 14psi, tiny changes to the screw position brought large changes to boost. it was borderline dangerous at higher levels in our case. under this level it wasn't an issue and great value at the price.

$700 according to their pdf file

HKS GT-RS from nengun or greenline would fit the bill exactly.

wet race...

mark webber

pm sent

marco, don't suck your teddy bear, it might have lead contaminated fur.

i 2nd that (or russell ingall)