wolverine

fairly traumatised??!?!? if he was feeling good enough to offer the parts and take money then he can do the decent thing and supply the parts or the money back within 2 working days. anything else is disgraceful.

tucked under the engine bay = bad cable tied back in front of ambient air feed FTW

nicsR33 i wrote a guide in the DIY section for a bosch 984 which more or less is the same. have you had a look at the guide? if you have some basic tools you should be able to fix all your issues with a little patience.

ahhh, thanks for that, the sensor has almost certainly been repositioned when the FMIC was installed.

EGA4IT has a workaround for this issue we have had on our stageas.

In the "what i love about my stagea" thread someone said they loved having an accurate temperature reading. I gather the sensor must be near the engine bay on our stagea since it more or less reads 9 degrees over ambient (once the car is warmed up). Does anyone know where the sensor is located?? Pics if possible would help.

i presume the smaller posts makes it an easier swap?!?! i will make some calls and see what i can find out.

interested in buying one when you order next. i am located in sydney. can you still supply posts as well?

hi phil welcome to SAU. thanks for supplying the pair of the Audison LRX 2 500's for the stagea over 12mths ago. (and the pair of bookshelfs)

paul this is exactly what i have experienced with an ordinary hi-flow of unknown origin. light to medium throttle openings caused surge, WOT all good. changes to tension of the BOV spring eased the symptoms, changes to tuning and cam gears cleared the issue.

getting more air into the cylinder rather than having it revert should be the key. changes to cam gears could/should help. exactly why tuning beats me. i spoke to a few tuners that feel it can be difficult to get around but others seem to think it is no problem. so i imagine the degree of mismatch of the turbine/compressor wheels might make this easy or near impossible. and these turbos are not mismatched.

why call chris the C word?? poor form mate.

dirtgarage is spot on, the BOV's are fine.

it's compressor surge and the shuffling comes from the return pressure wave. after market BOV's being more heavily sprung will make it worse. changes to tuning and/or cam gear positions should get rid of it. edit/correction: it is not the BOV opening and closing, it is the flow of air back thru the AFM/airbox as incorrectly posted.

they may have checked base timing and replaced or re-gapped the plugs. ask them exactly what they did...

the 023 will probably outflow (or be lineball with an 040) so unless the pump is faulty.....it will see you to much higher power figures. for your reference: 040 102L/hr 6.5bar 023 168L/hr 5.0bar 044 200L/hr 5.0bar

480cc=480hp (engine) 550cc=550hp the GT25 turbine will run out of flow long before 480hp IMO

1: i hate having a manual 2: i hate having a powerfc 3: i hate the HKS GT-RS 4: i hate that EGA4IT suffers from 50% of my gripes listed here too and still no one buys his car...(shakes head in bewilderment)

going from memory the shroud is the same as well.

with the larger injectors there should be no need for a FPR. the Z32 is identical in size to the standard AFM so it flows no more but the resolution is better with higher airflows, the voltage will be maxed out at or around 220rwkw on the standard unit. as stated, select Z32 on the menu and tune away.

i would pony up the cash for the Z32 AFM before you go any further. why pay for all that gear and then try to save money when it comes to airflow resolution?

missing 10kw's perhaps you need some anodised fittings

in japan the HKS stuff is relatively cheap and IS bolt on. (leave the manifold in place as there is no reason to change it) why he would look at a australian based hi-flow or any other complicated bolt on beats me or even considering GT30 based turbos with all the fabrication required to get it to fit. for the hp target GT-RS is the cheapest and easiest bolt on option and will provide more power everywhere compared to a GCG hi-flow. (the cost equation here makes it a harder choice for us).

HKS GTRS or HKS 2835 ProS should do the trick.

how about adjusting the exhaust cam gear and tuning. also try softening the BOV to the lightest setting will ease surge as it will allow a path of low resistance.