wolverine

they do put them there terminal but here is an example of what i am talking about. from fhrxstudios Where should I place my tweeters for best performance? Okay, lets all think about staging for a second. You don't go to a concert and sit with your back towards the band right? And admit it - we'd all like to be right in front and center of the band on stage true? And you'd also like to be at the right height to - like you were on the actual stage right in front of them listening. This is the imaginary image we try and capture inside cars today when we position tweeters in vehicles. Getting this is not just a simple matter of slapping them in just anywhere either. The problem with mounting tweeters up high (e.g. on the sail area on the door) is this: Think about the position of your ears in relation to the tweeters. One speaker is belting the high pitch tunes out about two feet from your right ear where as the left tweeter is triple that distance away. The stage has no choice but to be right out the right window. Sheer laws of physics govern this fact. Now if you place the tweeters down in the kick panels then the right speaker distance is about three feet and the left speaker is about three and a half. The problem is not eradicated but it becomes a lot less noticeable as the distance separation is reduced. Now obviously the tweeters cannot be placed anywhere where they fire straight into ones feet so you have to be very careful about their placement on both sides and the more often than not this results in them being mounted very high in the kick panel, quite often out of sight like mine are because they're so far up under the dash. The next question people ask is this; isn't the stage going to be low? The answer is not so much to do with the physical tweeter location but the power level they receive. If you have sufficient power going to each tweeter from a high quality amplifier then your tweeters will not only fill out the stage 'height' nicely but the entire front cabin of the car. That said though, serious competitors utilise ambient tweeters up high (these are much quieter than the primary tweeters however) to lift the stage a little to head height from chest height that usually exists. And someone is bound to mention time alignment - they always do. The biggest problem with time alignment is this; the better you make your side sound (and you can get it absolutely perfect), the more your passenger suffers. Think about it - it time delays the right side speaker so both signal paths reach your ears at the same time. The problem is that the passenger has the reverse problem to you so as you side gets closer to being the same side to side, theirs get worse and worse. So how does one get the stage right in real world terms? At the end of the day you just have to play around a bit (and sometimes it can take up to four hours or so) to get the tweeter placement just right to achieve a nice stage 'width' , 'height' and 'depth'. Get yourself a nice big blob of blue-tac. Stick the tweeter onto a panel somewhere and grab a song with powerful female vocals (a strong female voice is generally considered best for stage testing). Close your eyes and imagine you're at the concert. Now listen to where she is coming from. Is she singing right in front of you? Is she off to the left a tad or right? Simple move the tweeter a few inches in a direction and have another listen. How is the image? Can you hear where all the band members are exactly? How is the depth? Does the drummer sound like he is behind the other musicians? Keep doing this until you get the image dead center or just off to the left a little bit but remember to take a rest every fifteen minutes to let your ears normalize. If you attempt staging for hours your ears tend to 'hallucinate' and give false readings.

tweeters sound better located down on the kick panels. that's where i would locate mine.

post a price per forum rules.

pm sent

i am not qualified to answer that exactly but it will probably run out of resolution just over 200awkw however that doesn't mean u need to upgrade, i think that depends on how linear the tuning response is above 5.1v. SK no doubt should be able to answer the question acurately.

EGA i have a standard afm sitting here if you want a cheaper option.

pm replied.

SK you say you tried real hard, so did you use anodised fittings, polish the compressor housing and use flashing LED's to light it?? humbly, i stand corrected.

ICE the R34 turbine housing is larger than the R33. at the right price it is worth it. i believe it might be worth around 15kw.

VT SS II Commodore 06/2000 5.7L Auto White 120,000km Airconditioned Tinted Windows 2.1T Heavy Duty Tow Bar Hayman Reese Electric Brakes Roof Racks Kenwood, JBL, Sony Sound System with Stinger cables (Installed by FHRX Studios, CD of install available) Serviced Regularly Log Books Lady Owner Many Extras including 2x New Tyres, 8mths Rego, New Alternator, Power Steering Pump, Battery and more. Location Hills District, Sydney. $15,000 Andrew 0407 669166

the slide bar took me a while to figure out....it's good to read instructions first. presuming there are enough pre-outs etc for your needs and if you already have one i would go ahead and use it.

good job EGA

Speed and Ralf Schumaker tangled lap 1. Schumaker's car moved right and Webber had nowhere to go but into Ralf's stricken car.

FHRX just installed a 9853R which is pretty much the same so it will be fresh in his mind.

sold pending payment.

comparison or just kidding, i would love to see a direct comparison for all the reasons daveo has listed. it is clearly a bang for buck question for many here not just the outright performance.

i have one in sydney if interested.

webber 17th in the 1st session.

1st session of qualifying has started.

SOLD

just make sure they can't foul on the cradle, i guess that means to either side or away from the cradle itself. also make sure the electrical terminals are parallel to the cradle.

ok, it will be related to where the clamps are located or the orientation of the electrical terminals. try rotating the pump and/or clamps around. it took me a while to orient the pump the best way. the 984 is longer so the 040's length is not the issue.

it can be difficult to get the two pins to slide all the way down due to the width and length of the pump. if you located the pump and electrical connectors correctly it will fit...just (for a 984). have you got a pic of the pump on the cradle? an 044 is longer again which might be quite a fiddle.

sold pending payment

www.amayama.com looks about the same but there you go.