wolverine

price drop to $60

beautiful seat needing a posterior.

price drop $80. very nice seat to replace worn dirty seat.

the plazmaman version

i'll do you an R34 GTR fuel pump for $250 plus postage.

can't wait to see it after its had a good bath.

pm sent

two tyres are very poor the other two might be good for a very short time. pm sent

yes

so much for the SAU project car!!!!

sat on it today. mmm so comfy and no tears or marks. R32 owners!! cheap solution here for a tired old seat.

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need wider than standard rims for drag racing your pride and joy or some cheap stylish and did i say wider than standard rims. consider this bumped.

2603_Sound_dBate_Door_Kit_English.pdf some tech items from dynamat. the drop of about 3db alone is worth considering but it is providing a more solid base for the action of the speakers. presumably lower frequencies will be most improved but i imagine other frequencies benefit. i'm very far from an expert but i know it sounds better. and one from a corvette that shows the frequency changes. 2657_2000_Chevy_Corvette.pdf

since you are handy with tools i think this is a no-brainer for you. the difference you get makes it worthwhile. in my opinion it is the best extra $100-150 you can spend on car audio.

there is no way it is too big. mrs wolv is getting antsy to get her hands on it full time once the last mods are done.

then there was sound deadening (and more mid-bass). i used dynamat extreme and diffuser (thanks FHRX for supplying). i'm sure marty won't be sweating the loss of his livelihood any time soon. however, it is done. this is not too difficult but requires patience and small flat screwdriver, a phillips head screwdriver, a 10mm spanner/socket, a stanley knife, prepsol some clean rags and it will pay to have some panel clips handy prior to starting in case some snap off removing the door trim. there are only 4 screws holding right door trim on. two on the bottom, one in the middle towards the left side and one in the door recess/handle. all you need to do is gently lift up against the panel clips and it will virtually lift of the door handle surround will pop off in your hand. there are about three electrical plugs to disconnect (one of these was a tight little @#$%@!!). the left door is much the same except there is a 10mm bolt under the door handle which will become apparent when you lift the handle surround off. (once the three other screws have been undone if you lift the panel gently the cover may pop off in a similar manner to the other side. next remove the plastic. use your clean rags and prepsol to clean the door of grease wax dirt etc. clean inside the door skin as well. make sure you inhale deeply and get that warm fuzzy high that solvents can give you. (of course protecting your hands and lungs is sensible). hopefully your door will look all sorta sexy like these after photos. next apply the diffuser behind the speaker with locktite or superglue. naturally there is a reinforcing bar in the door right where i wanted to put the diffuser so i installed it immediately above this bar. next apply dynamat trying to cover all exposed metal surfaces. taking care not to apply it over the rails for the door locking mechanisms. these motors can burn out pretty easily if restricted in any way. any offcuts can be applied to any uncovered surface. i had to cut some strips to install onto the door skin. alternatively you could use sound deadening paint. my doors ended up looking like this after. now replace any panel clips into the door trim and replace the door trim by reversing the order of installation. hopefully the doors will sound more solid. dynamat extreme 2kg/m is about half the weight of serenity max 4kg/ and it is much easier to work with as it is more pliable. i don't know which has better deadening properties. the car sounds even better with lots more mid-bass. marty was staging the system late on friday night (for what must have been 1-1.5hrs) without the deadening installed which would have required enormous patience to get it sounding decent before we picked it up. massive thanks to marty and the team at FHRXStudios. ps. my finger have slashes in them from the dynamat when i was smoothing it down....now you shouldn't need stitches but my hands look like i had a hand holding date with freddy krueger. beer helps.

KLR32 has an IDmax of some description for sale from memory.

picked the car up last night. the install looks very tidy as expected. i asked marty to leave the doors without sound deadening so i will have a weekend project to complete. hopefully i'll get it done tomorrow. i have the prepsol, the dynamat extreme and two diffusers. this will be the second car that i have done so hopefully everything goes smoothly.

i have pristine R32 GTS-t and R34 GT-t drivers seats going for a song and a song+ but sydney-ites just don't need em atm.

i have an R32 GTS-t seat in sydney....why are you in melbourne??

its a challenge goldie, whichever way you go you lose something. hopefully you will post some pics when you sort it out. needless to say talking to marty @ fhrx is worthwhile.

added a few pics to the top.

fergo, the stacker i want to use will fit under the drivers seat but it won't go under the passenger seat. if you are looking for other places have a look under the floor next to the space saver, you may be able to squeeze something in there. alternatively remove the spacesaver and buy a can of tyre goop. EGA the sub boxes are small vol enclosures(well spotted) with subs that are suited for very small enclosures, they work well with volumes down to 15L (although i'm not sure what vol these are at this point). the aim was to lose nothing behind the strut towers to keep as much of that space as possible. we would probably never have laid the seats down but we need the larger opening that the rear door offers.