wolverine

i cut out the plastic wheelarch guard and riveted stainless mesh in its place. if you have the factory plastic scoop on your existing cooler bolt it on the R34 IC this will ensure that all the air goes thru the cooler. i had to fabricate one out of sheet aluminium on mine to keep the efficiency up.

sdm33, i think that is my old IC that i sold to george. good to hear you got a solid result from the cooler.

presa, the greddy IC you are looking at is the sidemount as far as i can see. they have an R-spl core.

pm sent

why don't you edit your post so you don't sound like a racist tool and yes you can install them but why is a better question?

$110ish for a sheet of quality sound deadening like serenity max. while you are at it, buy 2 and deaden both doors. tighten every nut and bolt you can get a screwdriver or spanner onto. tighten the jack as previously suggested. if you are superkeen pull the back seats out and replace the parcel tray with mdf. and if you are superdooper keen install sound deadening under the back seat. you should have Nissan Skyline R33 Infiniti after all this.

you will need: 1x bosch 0 580 254 984 pump from reputable supplier 1x -6 (dash 6) male adapter to M12 x 1.5 (part number 74022) 1x -5 (dash5) straight hose end (part number74090) 50cm approx EFI fuel hose 7.5mm ID (part number 70002) 5cm approx EFI fuel hose 12mm ID part numbers from Automotive Service Solutions/ Petroject 1x 70mm hose clamp 2x small hoseclamps (to fit 12mm fuel line) 1x ring clip electrical connector and nut to fit 5mm thread for negative terminal on pump 10mm socket rubber mallet and timber (or correct tool) phillips head screwdriver flat screwdriver pliers rags torch hacksaw stanley knife 1x bottle antiseptic/mercurachrome bandages 1. open boot of car and remove partition to battery compartment. 2. undo the 4x 10mm bolts holding the fuel tank access cover with 10mm socket. 3. you should be able to see a black ring with a white plastic centre with 3x hoses and 2x electrical connectors. 4. tap the black plastic ring anticlockwise till it can be removed by hand (this will never happen till the mongrel thing is all the way off the thread. 5. disconnect the two electrical connectors by squeezing the sides and lifting. 6. disconnect the three hoses. i found that removing the front hose on the right side last is the best order as this is the one that's going to spit fuel all over you. you can remove the fuel pump fuse (in the adjacent fuse box )and turn the car over to solve this problem. keep some rags to mop any stray fuel. 7. lift the white plastic centre cap and you will need to disconnect the 2x electrical connectors under the cap. they won't fall into the tank very far so mostly you can forget them for the time being. 8. use the torch to look inside the tank, you will notice that the pump cradle is located on the front wall of the tank. lift the pump cradle up and tilt the bottom of the cradle to the right to clear the pump and sock from the bottom of the tank. the whole unit should come out of the tank, the cradle, the pump and the white plastic centre cap. 9. use the pliers to release the clips holding the fuel pump to the fuel line and remove the sock from the bottom of the pump. you will need to lever it of with a flat screwdriver as it is held on by a small plastic ring that will need trimming later (or go nuts with that stanley knife, it's your call). 10. you will notice that the pump won't fit directly onto the cradle without cutting or bending the existing metal fuel pipe, so i trimmed mine with a hacksaw and smoothed off any rough edges. 11. disconnect the electrical connectors taking note of the +ve and -ve terminal (the +ve had a rubber boot on mine). you will need to cut the -ve terminal and crimp the new electrical connector. (noting that the pump has a larger -ve terminal). you will require the small nut (5mm ID) to fit terminal. you can change the +ve connector but the old one will fit and the nut from the old connector will also fit the terminal. connect the wires to the 984 pump. 12.mount the pump on the cradle at the lowest point you can get it and tighten the large 70mm hose clamp to secure it. make sure that one electrical terminal is next to the cradle (i'll explain later). 13. trim the small plastic circle at the mouth of the sock leaving a small lip so you can fit the 12mm fuel hose over it and clamp it into place with 1 small clamp. trim the fuel hose so that the sock will sit as close to the opening of the hose end on the 984 pump as possible. clamp the hose to the pump. try to ensure the orientation of the sock is the same as it came off ie. back towards the front of the car. 14. fit the -6 (dash six) male adapter (to M12 x 1.50) and -5 (dash five) hose end to the top of the pump and tighten with 19mm spanner (from memory). 15. disconnect the fuel line to the white plastic centre cap and reconnect the new 7.5mm fuel line to the cap and fuel pump using existing clamps (i used approximately 50cm of fuel line). 16. next comes the hard part, trying to fit it back in. due to the larger dimensions of the pump it is a tight fit. the pump may catch inside the tank so i had to make sure the pump was pushed down to the lowest point on the cradle and the electrical terminals were lined up correctly. you need to slide the cradle and pump back into the tank and move the pump slightly to the right and then down. next, you need to lift it back on to its mounting point but this can be difficult as the pump's fit is tightest just at this point. if you can get the flat pins for the cradle lined up it should just slide into place. it took a bit of fiddling to get it lined up. 17. reconnect the electrical connectors under the white cap. 18. refit the white cap. 19. locate the black ring and carefully tighten, it is a mongrel sonofabitch coming off and mine was an a-grade turd going back on (it seems to want to cross thread the whole time so take some time and deep breaths till you can get it started, i used silicon spray on the thread to make life a bit easier). 20. reconnect electrical connectors and three fuel lines. 21. replace 4x bolts on access plate. 22. get antiseptic and/or mercurachrome and bandages and start healing all the cuts you are going to have on your hands from that exposed sheet metal that surrounds the access to the fuel tank. 23. turn key on and pray you hear the pump priming (don't forget any fuses you may have pulled). 24. cheer like crazy, you can drive yourself to the hospital to get the skin grafts on your hands. Other thoughts: i mounted the pump on the bottom of the cradle and the pump is now metal on metal. you could modify the rubber that sits under the factory pump but i was concerned about the space for fitting the pump so i left it out. a smaller pump won't face that problem and taking the time to modify and fit the rubber it should reduce the vibration and noise) i also considered slicing a section of fuel hose in half to fit between the pump and cradle to minimise vibration, i doubt it would come loose but i left it out just in case. there is small priming noise on start up which is not loud on my car so i am perfectly happy with the result. I won't bother going back in there to try to quieten it. there is a sleeve over the pump like clear contact paper/plastic, i peeled mine off. if you are using another bosch pump then there may be some variations. particularly the 044 doesn't have a check valve (as i understand it) so you may require some extra items. the caveats: you should take all due care as the battery is right next to you so seeking professional advice to ensure your safety is advisable. this may include disconnecting the battery, having a fire extinguisher on hand and even paying a qualified technician to do it. this is a guide on how i installed my pump and i take no responsibility for any errors or omissions. lastly, i would like to thank the following people, skylinegeoff for pointing to location of the pump, predator for his photo of his cradle and pump, big thanks to strutto for staying up late one night on messenger and helping me with some parts. Repco for supplying the pump at such a good price (thanks big D), and a young guy at Petroject parramatta for his patience. and to the ultimate DIY dude mike for standing there and supervising, did nothing but....thanks.

bolt the adj cam gear on, crazy if you don't

it took me less than 30mins to install the R34 cooler, i squeaked it in without removing the front bar so if you need to remove the bar then this will add to the time and hassle. i just stuck it up on a set of ramps. certainly given the price of FMIC's the cost advantage has narrowed (but cost of pipework remains an issue) if you are looking for a cheap DIY mod then this is ok, at the right price. with a standard turbo that doesn't love being pushed much beyond 12psi, spending $800 on a FMIC and pipework (+ labour to install??) vs R34 IC and running between 10-12psi for possibly $150ish you will be slightly behind on longer applications of wide open throttle (WOT), around town i bet it makes stuff all difference which IC. arguably the response it better with the smaller IC. at higher boost the pressure drop across the nissan IC's is significant. i measured inlet temps at the plenum and they remained controlled for street driving, not as good as a FMIC but ok. if you are going to upgrade the turbo then don't muck around buy a FMIC, if you are going to keep the factory one this modification is a reasonable option.

beats me then.... .....gives you more room for a sub.

bolts straight in ben. nothing else is needed.

nah, if the photo was taken from lower down you would see there is another box above the one you can see. (is yours a series 1 or 2, not sure if there is a difference).

check PM

hi predator, thanks for the pic and advice.

cheers geoff, if the tank had been about 1/4 full it might have been easier to see. ***(i was scrambling around looking for a lighter or matches but the cigarette in my hand made it hard to get them out of my pocket......) how difficult is it to mount a bosch pump back into the factory bracket?? also what else will i need on hand to do the job?? ps. ***no, i don't smoke and i was just kidding

i have S2 R33 GTS-t. i was noodling around trying to see how difficult it would be to replace the fuel pump. so i carefully read up all the threads on "how to replace fuel pumps". i removed the four screws from the top plate, unclipped the two electrical connections, eased the three hoses (fuel line, return and breather(??)) from the white cap. i managed to tap that tight motherf#*^ black ring off and carefully lifted out the white plastic cap. i was expecting the fuel pump to be attached on a cradle to the white cap. instead there was a fuel line feeding down into the tank and various wires. i presume the pump is in there somewhere. i gave the fuel line a light tug and it all felt pretty snug in the tank. if i need to change the pump will i need to drop the tank or has the cradle fallen off into the tank. help please...

R34 cooler will support 170-180rwkw

adj. exhaust cam gear. there is an easy >10kW in gains while you are there. water pump, as you have already mentioned.

right side: there are three screws on the door trim that need to be removed along the bottom edge of the door. there is a screw in the recess of the door handle. the surround of the door handle has to be levered out gently with a small screwdriver (insert about 1/3 along the top edge and very delicately lever the handle of the screwdriver up) the surround will release from the front first and lastly to the back. gently lever up the window/locking surround with a small screwdriver. (there is a small clip that lifts pretty much straight up in the middle but mine was quite rusted and wasn't holding it). unclip the wiring loom. lift the door trim from the bottom up and it should unclip ok. left foor is nearly the same but there are two hidden screws (from memory) holding this trim. follow same procedure for the right door with the three screws on the bottom edge of the door and the door handle. lever the window switch surround with small screwdriver gently till it pops out. unclip the loom to the switch. this should reveal the first hidden screw. look under the arm/handrest and there is another small plastic cover, same goes with levering this off, there is a screw in there to be undone. the trim should lift off from the bottom up now. the bonus section: i found it helpful to buy some panel clips from an automotive store to replace any damaged clips (of which there were a few on my car). i also would take the time to buy sound deadening from someone like FHRX studios and sound deaden your doors while you are at it. this is the cheapest and best modification you can make to improve your sound system. (serenity max is approx $110-120 to do both doors). while the trim is off you are crazy to miss this. this should get you to the speakers. i hope i have everything covered up to there.

thanks marty, got the tickets today..... .....they are the winning tickets aren't they?!?!

hi marty if i can't make it i'll certainly take a few raffle tickets.

down on the kickpanel on my car if in doubt stick bluetack on the back and try them in different positions till u are happy.

joemac, the fuse for the fuel pump is located next to the battery.

without knowing where the rattle is coming from it is difficult to tell, but a new parcel tray is easy to do, so replace it with MDF. that can kill one source of rattling Sound deadening in the doors is one of the cheapest and best mods you can make to your sound system so why not do the doors and buy enough to deaden any rattles you find in the boot. also check between the rear metal skin and the sidewalls of the boot for foreign objects that might have snuck their way in there. i found a brush, a bunch of plastic rings?!?!, and assorted nuts and washers in mine. lastly check the spare is bolted down nice and tight (just in case that got missed). wolv

maintenance try here.