wolverine

ok given that the shrouds on the fans are in place... does the front bar seal against the radiator bottom and sides, and is the rubber under the bonnet intact. if it doesn't then 0.6mm aluminium sheeting cut and fitted on all sides will seal it up and give you some extra efficiency. i spent a few hours on mine for something to do as the undertray had been cut away. there are some commercially available top radiator guides. it will be cheaper than replacing the radiator if it works, if it doesn't you should have it anyway so not a lot to lose either way. otherwise good luck with the new radiator...if someone can tell you the correct size.

have you sealed the top bottom and sides of the radiator to the front bar/grille and do the fans still have their shrouds??

great modification for the front end of your car. shame i already have done mine given the price.

Os Giken ex-cam gear. Installed, dialled and tuned at UAS.

mine came back yesterday (R33 S2) and cam gear picked up extra kW most of the way thru with around 15kW at the top end. they work fine.

R34 GT-t intercooler $175. bolts straight up to R33 GTS-t no modification needed. cheap, easy DIY modification for cars running standard turbo. bought from ARE in Qld and pressure tested prior to sale. the R33 it has come from made 199rwKw on Unigroup dyno last Nov. PM me if you are interested. ********SOLD**********

sound deadening is worth every cent. if you are prepared to do it yourself $100 worth of sound deadening in your doors will make a massive difference to the sound quality. this relies on you pulling the door trims off and installing it yourself. it is unlikely to take longer than 2-3 hrs (so allow a whole afternoon just in case). i think most installers will charge about $250-$300 per door..... bear in mind if you spend $100 extra on your deck, splits, sub, amp and cables i defy you to hear any difference. i have sound deadened both doors and under the back seat and wheel arches, i used 2 sheets of serenity max, it weighs 4kg/m each sheet was 1.3x1m. the biggest sound difference was the doors. if you lived in Sydney i would help you do it.

contact marty at www.fhrxstudios.com if you want quality car hi-fi he's worth calling.

i doubt it's placebic (is that a new word??!! nice!) too, genuinely feels better but i am a sceptic at heart. i didn't seal off the hose, there was a small amount of return from downstream, upstream was no problem. if it wasn't for the goddam @#>*#@ difficult hose removal it would have been reasonably neat. i contemplated plugging the lines after i pulled the filter off but any spillage was well and truly done by then.

:werd: both hoses were a little stubborn on the weekend, patience.....lots of patience (not a stanley knife) got mine off. placebo or not?!?! seems to be running better.

Sorry to hijack, i will have an R34 GT-t I/C for sale shortly

getripped, if you do a search there are photos of stealth sub installs on this site.

the trust cooler you are referring to is an R-spl core which is 119mm thick (ie triple) vs 80mm core on the R34. front mounts come in V-spl and R-spl cores.

you said you won't split HC, have you changed your mind?? interested in HC.

razor when you are finished you should buy some sheet aluminium and make some ducting to surround it and cut a decent sized vent in the wheel arch (and mesh it if you are feeling keen) . been there, and i hope you got it done successfully.

neat analogy with the hot water pipe, imagine if the pipe was effectively empty and on the other side of the house?? how long from when the tap is opened till water reaches the other end?? bigger is definitely not always better, response is worth plenty when it comes making quick cars.

saw your pics bass looks tidy

1. two nuts near the floor on the lower cushion need to be undone 2. there are two D shaped pins holding it at the front of the seat, they should release fairly easily if not the lever the seat gently upwards with the reverse end of a shifter 3. next remove the two nuts on the upright cushion and then slide the cushion upwards till it releases 4. you should be able to get at the parcel tray now

thanks SK, i did the search before and i read your previous post on the subject. just to clarify are you seeing efficiencies of 70% or intercooler outlet temps of 70 degrees?

Roy i have the intercooler shrouded completely with sheet aluminium and mesh installed in the wheel arch. Still hoping to get more info on how high inlet temps reach.

it was reading 30degrees on steady/spirited driving on sunday which was approximately 10 degrees above (est.)ambient. at the lights the temp would run significantly higher as the pipework heats up and when you start moving again temps decrease (as expected). the highest single temp it reached was 48 degrees when i got a slight cramp in my right foot up a hill. how high is too high??

sunday was around 18-20 degrees, i had the back seat out of the car installing sound deadening and it was a pretty warm for this time of year. mornings obviously cooler so i imagine around 10 degrees ambient. i want to move the thermocouple into the airbox and get some readings from in there later.

Bass, some temps listed a few posts back Bretto not front mount, just a side mount off an R34 GT-t.

S2 R33 GTS-t, 3" turbo back, t3/4? turbo (specs unknown), R34 I/C, bleed valve, 12psi, power fc

driving to work it has never gone above 20 degrees (usually around 15 deg) except sitting at the lights, 30 degrees on sunday with spirited consistent driving and 48 deg spike on booting it up a hill from a near standstill, as the airflow increased the temp eased back. at rest you can see temp rising as it soaks engine heat.