wolverine

i have slipped a thermocouple near the plenum and have been taking some readings. i have only had it in for 2 days. i thought it would be interesting to get some numbers before making any changes but i would like to know what is a reasonable temp range (allowing that ambient conditions can vary).

Has anyone measured inlet temps here and what sort of peak temps are you getting?...and...what is a reasonable temperature range before there are concerns of the I/C being undersized??

on the sound deadening, i spent a fun monday installing sound deadening into the front doors (supplied by fhrx). rear wheel arches are next. i will help a friend in the next few weeks and we should be able to document/photograph the steps if anyone is interested. if you are considering sound don't forget this, it is worthwhile.

pm sent

Ronish, i got a look at your website, can u get unigroup to send the torque and AFR's.

1. panel filter (K+N or similar) 2. 3" turbo back exhaust 3. boost controller (bleed valve!?!?) 4. power FC 5. suspension mods reassess 6. exhaust cam gear 7. slightly bigger IC 8. hi flow turbo for a streetable car IMO

gradenko, i wish i had a camera handy. i'll see if i can work something out though. there is nothing special other than sheet aluminium cut and shaped (BTW the factory plastic had already been cut and removed by a previous owner). i made it in three sections left, centre then right side. one piece would be nice but i am not clever enough to make it fit. i still have a sidemount IC but that is now boxed in which was a major pain to get the aluminium shaped right but i got there eventually (esp. the top). i will get some mesh in the wheel arch and that should keep a reasonable flow thru there and maybe it will help a little. with regards to getting some "ground effects" from my undertray . i would think i have a better chance of getting a date with rebecca romijn-stamos. hopefully you can lead the way on this front.

hey marty, about those rattles in my boot....

i might be writing something a bit silly here, but here goes.. hydrogen gas. by earthing on the body away from the battery you lower the chance of a stray spark igniting said gas from the battery?!?!

51jay if you don't have a full undertray i think it is worthwhile going to the trouble also with a little cutting and shaping you can make some verticals to seal the sides. the left vertical was a pain to make and fit (R33 s2). you should get improved cooling if air can't spill under the car or around the radiator.

51jay it appears from your picture that you are limiting air due to the position of the plate being quite low down near the front bar and possibly deflecting air upward, this may be paralax error from the photo so i apologise if you have taken offence. i know there is a rubber seal under the bonnet as you clearly stated but the position of the plate seems to be reducing airflow to the top half of the radiator and affecting the cooling. recently i have built a full undertray to seal up all around the radiator and IC. (mine had been carefully cut away?!?!) i also sealed the sides, so i have been looking at the top pretty closely too, haven't done anything yet so i am interested in other opinions on this topic.

that should be the purpose as i understand it steve, especially if you look at the UAS one on the S1 grill, it allows airflow under it and seals the top, (you need to make sure that air can reach the factory norkel/air intake). sealing the radiator on top should lead to efficiency gains. Same goes for the IC. blocking off the top feed to the radiator..... it should get hotter.

luke and benno, find $2k and get fhrx to do it. see if you can twist his arm?!?! the sub is irreplaceable luke. i bet when you get one you'll never go without.

....and a fine job too

or you can make a small sub-enclosure and fit it next to the battery.

[quote name= And Wolverine' date=' if you're reading this, I sppreciated your offer, I just bumped into someone with one and heard it then. Cheers mate.[/quote] glad to hear it.

shane email or pm fhrx.

i agree wholeheartedly with the above however, the best material for making a duct to surround the IC is 1mm aluminium sheeting. it is quite easy to work with & cheap when you ask for offcuts.

let me know what your first beer tastes like

Fhrx are you becoming cranky...

R34 cooler fits straight in too and will get to 200rwkw (other mods allowing)

if you want to hear mine it can be arranged

go for it Bob

marty did my R33 and i am very happy with the result, the R34 has a little more space in the boot (i believe) so a few more options for you. the 10" sub is tucked away in a small box, neat install with tight bass. give him a call

damn right, they are cheap if you sell the old one, but the best bet is to ensure that you have proper ducting of air onto the cooler by sealing all sides and proper venting into the wheel arch. the wheel arch has a negative pressure (as i understand it) therefore you will get good airflow and velocities thru the cooler (remembering it is a thicker core than the '33) if you take the time to cut and mesh this section. Agreed, its not a perfect solution for peak HP but for most road applications the responsiveness should leave you ahead. Read rev210's posts if you want some validation from a more authoritative source.