wolverine

RB25DET Neo head with crank angle sensor located in Sydney, $500. Whether you are planning on building an RB30 slapper or using a RIPS bottom end or building your own this is the best head to use. You get solid lifters and smaller combustion chamber volume which brings up the static compression nicely if using standard RB30 pistons.

I am pretty sure there some speedo adjustment on the back of the cluster. I am digging through the garage later so I will have a look see on a spare cluster.

There is a grommet on the drivers side that you can pull a cable/vaccum hose through. Just get under the dash with a torch and you will see it. You can poke a coathanger (with hose and cable taped to it) through the grommet and grab it from the engine bay/guard side.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/396164-lets-talk-water-meth-injection/

fine tooth jigsaw works ok

0.6mm ally will fold quite easily. 1.0mm will challenge you a bit if you are using basic hands tools...

Pink shirt, red nose...living the life that I would like to become accustomed to.

I hate those BKR plugs. Bastard new set I had in the R33 cost a bunch of time on the dyno. Swapped them out for BCPR7's and instant power. I am not sure if that is due to the length affecting the contact on the coil, the V groove or just a single dud plug but I still hate them. For Laurence when the time comes change them for BCPR6ES. At stock power they shouldn't be an issue.

Happy and crack free sounds good to me. Where would you rather be??

Where are you in Sydney?

No other changes to toe or camber were made after.....? Stock ride height, car wandering on the rear end means there is an issue that can probably be fixed easily if the problem is diagnosed. The car is probably toeing out on the rear but until the OP gives us the numbers from the recent alignment it is hard to tell if there is another issue.

Lowering the car isn't going to make any difference. Stock height is not causing the problem.

The Nistune is the better bet for price and simplicity. Send ECU away to Nistune (or find someone who can desolder/resolder new board). The hidden cost from Nistune comes if you buy the cable and licence to make changes yourself. Are you really going to make changes? Do you have any tuning experience? The PowerFC would also require sorting out a 3.6-3.7v feed to pin 51 to get around traction control/engine check lights. I use both and both are good options. Adaptronic are cheap and finding a few friends these days if you want something with more bells and whistles.

So what settings are on the car then? Camber, toe etc?

Would it be silly to take it to a decent place and have them check the alignment both front and rear? Simple things first IMO.

As long as you don't over oil them they are fine. A simple squirt of electrical contact cleaner on the afm element from time to time is easy maintenance and should be done anyway.

^^ yep Spending a bunch of money, then selling down the track for a fraction seems crazy to me

NPC carbotic single will do the job for reasonable money.

I would suggest try GCG if you have extra xmas money, if not call MTQ/Sonic

This really is an issue between you and the tuner. Do you have confidence in their ability to get it running correctly?

I don't think that small vacuum hose is going to account for a loud bang. The hose (we are guessing) you circled obviously needs to be reconnected but I suspect if you have a good look around you will find an intercooler hose has come off.

Take the cat out to dinner and a few drinks and you never know.

I have a metal cat so I am interested what leads to the failure on some of them as you describe. I figure a lack of advance could lead to combustion continuing out of the exhaust valves and skyrocketing EGT's but it doesn't sound like it in your case.

Did you pull any timing out of it for the track day? I wonder if it is just a track day issue or tune issue around the area you drive on the track?