wolverine

My last discussion 6mths ago with a name brand workshop that does this work suggested $3500 was the price tag drive in drive out they were targetting (owner supplying jerry cans of course). I am not sure if this is the correct number as it was an off the cuff guesstimate and could prove to be higher in practice.

At a guess Link + flex fuel sensor + tuning = $3000-$3500 drive away

Seeing what happened to Simoncelli would have focussed his mind.

Are you tuning the car?

Straight or kinky?

Is this a trick question? Nistune are selling them.

I like this ending better

Or get the super SAU discount by following the instructions in this post. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/73375-i-found-a-good-cheap-boost-controller-for-22/page__view__findpost__p__6310060

Meh, The price has gone up but close enough http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbotech-manual-turbo-boost-controller-ORIGINAL-/220630394267

Awesome end to a thread.

The board is only $260 as it is.

^^^ spot on

Andrew @ ASR is a good guy Scotty. If the car is down there Thursday morning I will pop in and have a look too.

The 'walk of' gets a thumbs up tonite.

^^CONE ftw.

What is up with Lotus? Why run Raikkonen 2 seconds off the pace with 17 laps to go?

Left rear hasn't fallen off yet...if he makes one lap I will call it a successful pitstop for McLaren

Maldonado has easily covered Nando

Hamo and Massa.....hmmm

Ch10 ffs its 9.36

I am eating tortilla chips and filthy hot salsa, go Perez. I am always hoping the Chin can make his way through the field but it looks like a long day unless he can make a tyre strategy work.

Compressor surge is most evident on light medium throttle openings, you might not experience it on the dyno. If you don't want to explain what housings your turbo has used then it is your prerogative. Good luck.

In order here were my responses including the expected power level and then this explaining what is the cheapest and most suitable then I answered your PFC question is pretty full detail despite answering what was cheapest and most suitable since myself and another member were the guinea cops in the early days when it came to fitting one to my Stagea. This necessitated spending the money upfront to purchase one and spend the time working out how to get rid of the engine checklight. I reiterated the value of a decent cat and once again went over the next mods you should consider Now I am getting a bit frustrated, sure I was patient with the same questions previously but I figured you were just trying to be certain. Everything the members of SAU have shared could be found with a search but instead we have taken the time that you probably wouldn't get if you posted in "Forced Induction" and we do it because we like to help out. C'mon.

I would have a very thorough look for a vacuum leak as well. There are lots of little vacuum hoses that can open up when hot and cause hunting and stalling. It still seems like another issue but the simple things are worth checking out. Particular attention to the small hoses at the front of the plenum as they are often missed. Whacking the airbox sounds awfully like AFM/AFM wiring is the culprit. Are you certain that the tech re-soldered the afm correctly? If so, then it is the wiring around the plug.

Have you bothered to read anything in your own thread? I swear this has been asked and/or answered already more than once.