wolverine

I am trying to get excited but a few days out I only have a 'semi'.

0.82 same power, more response. If you go GT3076 then you will get more bottom end again without losing at the top.

Make sure you get a before and after dyno.

You can tidy it up with a die grinder and blend out any imperfections while it is off. If you have the time and patience....why not.

Spies looked the biz at times last year, hard to understand what is going on there.

Removed the knock maps from nistune?? Where did they they have the inlet temp sensor? Seems to make ok power under 4000rpm.

signed

4237.4rpm

If they don't ping and you don't smash the rev limiter most engines are pretty tough. Are you using the 1.06 housing still or is this with the 0.82 (or whatever the new housing came out to be).

pm sent These threads often end up ugly.

Hopefully MW times it with the Fez being more competitive.

Casey delivering a solid win last night. Cal Crutchlow looking like he is going to be the next rider to join the top tier with a very good 4th place pushing hard all race.

The R33 heater cores are Z32, you will need to check if it is the same but it probably is the same. The price of a heater core should be under $150 last time i checked (but it was a while ago). You can join the hoses in the engine bay in the meantime to bypass the core while you are getting it out.

The same.

Are we talking about Bernie? He sorta looks like a man.

6c worth

This be the thread for you http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/390052-285-2999kw-unopened-rb25-club/page__fromsearch__1

This just isn't true. There are so many results out there using stock parts that make a lot more power than you are saying. It comes down to tuning. Keep them away from det they will live a long happy productive life. I agree that costs add up quickly which is the very reason I haven't gone down the RB30 route....yet. There are always hidden costs but we aren't telling Rob anything he doesn't already know.

If you want to use the 26 head then I think a 260RS would have all the ancillaries already there including the loom and all the gear to stay with twins. I don't think you can go too far wrong either way. RIPS engines are cheap enough and ready to roll with the cradle and oil pickups sorted. If you went a neo 25 head the cheapest RIPS bottom end would come up a treat around 9:1 comp (very roughly) with the smaller chamber volume of this head. Plus the neo head has VCT which is handy. As long as it is tuned well, RIPS have shown they will hold plenty of power even using stock pistons. Plus there are plenty of local builders that can build something to suit your needs and budget.

Both RS4S and 260RS have the beefed up (R33GTR driveshafts) vs the auto versions. Both have R33 GTR gearboxes. Do you know what head you want to use?

^^I'm with Ash Not RB26 but I think comparable. Switching from a GT-RS to 2835ProS the dyno prints are very similar but the ProS ultimately makes more power. On the street the GT-RS is so much more lively with small throttle openings, changing lanes is so much easier and was always willing no matter what gear. The ProS is much nicer on wide open roads but but requires more throttle and a whisker longer to get going. It is hard to believe that they feel so different to drive considering the overlays were so similar. On a heavy car like the Stagea I would prefer to go back to the GT-RS for day to day driving. Based on the above I wouldn't hesitate to go -9 for a 26....but I would have to think long and hard about going -5's.

^^ thanks to advice from Dan I have the NPC organic on the Stagea. Very good clutch for the street and holds plenty of power.

I bet Jez cups you better than any other tuner.

The 984 has a hose end on the bottom. The 044 needs dash fittings for the bottom to connect the sock. The open end of the 040 is harder to mount low enough to avoid issues with fuel pick up.

040 has an open end so there is no way to attach the standard sock. Did you use an 044?