wolverine

Exactly, you can have VCT. Search the RB30 thread there is plenty to read there.

...and to save you time searching SAU http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/383259-rb25det-neo-head-on-a-rb30/page__p__6116219__hl__vct__fromsearch__1#entry6116219

If you use your neo VCT head prepped to suit an RB30 on the relatively low comp RIPS standard bottom end how will you lose VCT? The smaller chamber volume of the neo head will bump up the compression nicely and it will work just the way it does now except with more grunt down low.

He needs a need AWD neo for a stagea and they don't come up every day. NZD$4250 with adapter and pickup is way out of his budget?? Really??

^^ That's silly, as if anyone would bother looking for it.

Why not just get RIPS to send over a RB30 short motor? Prep your existing head to suit, modify piping and get it engineered.

Contact George directly at Venom He is pretty helpful with SAU members, ships quickly and can supply with or without flanges.

A stock fuel regulator will at least give you correct base pressure. Fuel economy is most likely a failed/old O2 sensor. If you are located in Sydney I have a few spare stock fuel regs.

Good stuff. Cheap, cheerful and sounds better which is a win.

I stand corrected. There has to be a reason that some are failing repeatedly, is it happening on other VQ powered cars?

The Z32 has different resolution but is not better. I still don't understand how you have "killed" the afm. Sure they can get dirty, sure they can have dry soldered joints, sure you can have a wiring issue at the plug but having them fail outright is a bit of a long shot on a relatively new car. You need to find the actual cause. I have repaired three afm's with dry solder (but much older units that you are using) and have always given the elements a tickle with contact cleaner as a part of routine maintenance.

Electrical contact cleaner will clean the element of the AFM. How has it been determined that you have killed the AFM?

He already has an R33 GTR box in it. Parts should be pretty straightforward once you know what (if anything and I am doubtful) you have damaged. 2WD is easy, remove front driveshaft.

I have heard squealing from the passenger side too but usually its when my sister is driving and I accidentally let one out.

No lip on the rotors. A bit of lip from the missus when they squeal does that count?

Solid lifters on the neo head so they can require a re-shim if they get noisy but it is hardly a maintenance item. If the head comes off it is worth checking clearances and re-shimming if required.

Pretty much maintenance free.

None of us understand it either.

Welcome home to winter GT.

The right front squeal is finally settling down on the (I believe are) Ultimates.

Wheel alignment is the first thing to do.

What water? Do you have a vented bonnet?

Is that why neo coils invariably fail...since their engineers know best? I have removed the coil pack on both cars and have driven that way for over 11yrs and 6 yrs with no issues after replacing the factory coil packs with splitfires. The heat seems to be a factor in killing them so why not take it off.

The GCG hiflow is a ball bearing unit.

I am not a fan of the pads on the Stagea that came with the GT-t calipers. The previous owner said they were ultimates. I am keen to try a different pad at some point in the near future. Dusty mofos plus I don't like the initial bite.