wolverine

i can get a tune for $1349 you get ripped.

Per my post GCG hiflow stock turbos. Search SAU and there are numerous threads on hiflowed turbos. The major upside is that they it will bolt straight on but will still require supporting mods to get the best out of them. There are so many other options out there but each option has differing levels of cost and difficulty. Best advice I can give is organise a decent budget and do it properly after doing lots of reading here at SAU. If you are going to fiddle around with half measures save your self some pain and just buy a second hand turbo.

I don't think Duncan is asking to win any competitions he just wants noise in the back. They will be fine Duncan. Pretty sure they are 6" as stated above.

Hiflowed stock turbo such as the GCG hiflow are the only true bolt on turbos everything else requires more work to fit. There are no catches or hidden surprises if you bolt your rebuilt turbo back in the same spot.

The first one or the second one? If it's the second one I want to see how big your loungeroom is.

Good quality pads and decent brake fluid will do the job comfortably. I picked up R34 calipers, slotted rotors and pads for a good price so it was a no brainer for me to do the conversion. Perhaps with repeated stops this setup is superior but for day to day driving it feels the same.

Pics would help.....

There is a whole thread devoted to Kando. How much cheaper do you want things to be?

What model stagea? If non-neo RB the hydraulic lifters can get sticky/gummed.

Did you set up your boost controller with the HG SS1 turbo with an un-tuned ecu? Did you hit >20psi while doing this? Did you hear audible knock while doing this?

If you go back far enough the issue was setting up boost control on an untuned stock ecu and had moments of uncontrolled boost. Was warned not to do this. Advised to get engine management asap and to drive the car gently until tuned but he continued to set up boost control with different actuators with an untuned Nistune. There was audible knock while doing this. On more than one occasion. Then finally took car to EFI for tuning. IMO the damage was done prior and EFI were left with a sick engine to start with.

It was only missing two (or was it four) frigging M10 14mm nuts. Not easy to find at short notice (high nickel content or whatever they should be) unless you want to pay Mitsubishi something like $20 each.

Inspect, re-use if OK, don't drive on limiter.

I bought my full kit for $1200 with a damaged turbine wheel. $1100 for a new CHRA job done.

They look remarkably similar rather one much better than the other. The exh cam gear might fatten it up a bit earlier but last time I checked Trent said it makes no difference on an RB25. The 2835ProS costs more but comes with everything to bolt on exactly to the stock location (from dump, new intake, nuts, bolts etc) vs a turbo requiring some fabrication. Given the threads out with SAU'ers having issues with fitting Hypergear turbos it goes to show that some 'simple' fabrication to some is a lot more complicated and expensive for others. The guys that have had issues for several weeks/months probably wish the spent on the HKS unit (if they were still available) those that have had no problems are laughing all the way to the bank.

pm sent

Location? I have a bonnet but it is a pick up only of course.

Bob, did you go with RIPS or build something? Sorry if you have posted this before, I just can't remember.

It looks a bit like a standard bush bearing rebuild.

Bigger turbo, Z32 AFM and injectors + retune then there is some extra power to be gained. IMO don't go too big on the turbo bigger isn't always better to drive.

Does anyone factor engineering and niggly fabrication to make everything bolt back up when they say "it can be done for cheap"?

Well you are in with a shot. The last lot of "nismo 740's" I was interested in buying were single hole...so I passed.

Are they four hole or the single hole? I bet they aren't the real deal Nismo's.

100k km service i am guessing included timing belt, idler bearings etc?? What parts were changed, were they OEM?? Has the base timing been correctly reset?

Signed Senna?