Revhead

The reason the water pump is usually replaced is because it's in behind the timing belt, and it's a damn sight easier to do it as part of the 100k service than by itself further down the track

Oops, didn't notice that bit. Yes this is best done out of the car

I've never had a problem with spring compressors... just make sure you use two on each spring, obviously this means directly opposite eachother. Do them up until they're tight enough to hold the spring (without actually compressing), do one right up, then do the other. If they're on opposite sides of the spring it'll all even out. That said, occasionally, particularly for longer springs, you'll need to do it in two or three stages (ie one side a bit, then the other, then swap back etc) if the spring twists too far when one side is done up. They only have to be tightened enough to let the hat go back on. Make sure the hat is in the correct orientation compared to the strut leg otherwise it'll be "fun" trying to get it all to bolt back up. Other than that nearly legible description I'm probably not much help!

From memory, you can get what they call a boroscope (as in bore-o-scope) - it's like an endoscope or gastroscope in principle, they put it down the spark plug hole and can look around the cylinder without taking the head off. Good luck finding a shop that has one though! They are around, but I bet they're rare as...

Not as far as I know... usually they're either done in 4th (which is 1:1 gearing usually) or 3rd if 4th would hit the speed limiter.

Ben, it's an 'in' joke

Well said, and I could not agree more.

w00t, site is back up Here: http://members.optushome.com.au/turbo202/P.../Pioneer3-4.jpg http://members.optushome.com.au/turbo202/P.../Pioneer5-6.jpg A bit too large to embed or attach

Bob Jane at Toombul. Don't forget to mention SAU!

One feeds the rack, the other is a low pressure return. I replaced one of my hoses recently, all I did was top up the reservoir, have someone repeatedly turning the wheels left-right-left-right (it was off the ground on a hoist) and just keep topping up until the level stopped dropping and I stopped getting bubbles. Drove it around, checked it a day or two later, topped it back up, and haven't had a problem since. In answer to 'how to bleed', I assume there'd be a bleed on the rack somewhere. If I get a chance I'll have a look and take some piccies next time it's on the hoist.

ffs take a pill I'm not sure where you got the idea that anyone was giving you attitude - Rezz was just asking for more info on yankee plates, as you imply that these can make shaken cheaper. I must have missed the bit where someone said that certain groups of people (yanks or anyone else) are not allowed on these forums...

Pioneer wiring connectors are the same across the whole range afaik. It's all pretty standard stuff (red = 12v, black = earth, yellow = ign 12v?, blue = remote (amp/aerial), etc) but if you're keen I'll dig out my DEH-P6050 manual and scan in the wiring diagram

Haha I hate to tell you Chris, but that (and starting backwards) are usually standard parts of the LVMA course So nyer

Problem is that there are so many "I will always vote for x" that it'll pretty much always be a Labour/Liberal-run country. Pity, because both parties are full of absolute c0ckmasters.

Bugger that, go the WAGON

On a bone stock 33, I believe you would gain some power removing the horrendously restrictive exhaust. I've heard that not putting the second sensor (after the cat) back into the exhaust can cause it to burn out though, but I have no idea whether that's true or not! If it already has a good cat-back exhaust on it, it's probably a waste of time. That said, I put a drop pipe on mine when I head out to the drags. It sounds farkin awesome, and it feels quicker too (I know it's just cos it's making more noise, but it does "feel" quicker).

A rebuild is just that - you strip the motor down into parts, replace any parts that are worn or stuffed (or could be upgraded ), and put it all back together again. Cost depends on exactly what needs to be done, whether you upgrade anything during the rebuild (forgies instead of stock pistons for example), who does it, and where you get the parts from.

I've already replied to your other thread, but I have photos at http://members.optushome.com.au/turbo202/M...t/NewTurbo.html which could help.

Holy crap man, that was unexpected! Good luck with it... so what are you buying?

I posted one a while ago... I cbf looking for it, but look up R33 and VLT against my name and you'll find it with pictures and all. Actually, go to http://members.optushome.com.au/turbo202/M...t/NewTurbo.html - I put step-by-step info and photos there The work was actually done at Cosmos Mechanical, one of the SAU Qld club sponsors. ph 3281 6575

Some nice pics in there Jason http://members.optushome.com.au/revhead304.../Skidpan040815/

Previously Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-P6050 Front: Alpine 6.5" splits, passive crossovers Rear: Factory upgrade carbon fibre-look Bose dual cones Sub: Fusion fpw-1500 DVC 15" sub, custom 85L box, twin 4"x23" ports Amps: US Audio 4x50W running front splits, Rockford Fosgate 250m² running sub Power: US Audio amp ran 8 guage wire for both earth and power, and a 40 amp fuse. Going to the Rockford I had 4 guage wire to a 1 farad capacitor, then to a distribution block, which split into 2x 8 guage power wires (dual monoblock amp=two power sources). 2x 8 guage earth wires to the cap, then 4 guage to a rather large earthed bolt. NFI how the stock alternator survived. Was pretty loud, farkin bassy, and sounded pretty good for a system that cost me under $2k all up, but it wasn't doing clips/screws/interior trim much good, and I had no usable boot space - large power wires and an amp that ran very hot meant that I didn't like piling stuff up on either side of the box. It ended up stretching the shit out of my boot lock so I pulled the sub and Rockford amp out. Now Head unit: Pioneer DEH-P6050. Volume buttons worn through Front: Alpine 6.5" splits. Both have blown voice coils Rear: Bose rear fill. Fine! Amp: US Audio 4x50W, still running the fronts Sub: None, but I have my boot back!

What happens when it gets to 5500? Does it bounce hard off a limiter, does it gradually get slower as it approaches 5500, then just not go any harder? Can it go past 5500 using part throttle or going down a hill? All of these will help to narrow down where the problem lies. I doubt the transmission or the wiring to/from it is the problem. Basically if you're getting a speed reading, your reverse lights work, and (if it's auto) the idle compensation works when you click it in/out of gear, then it's all working fine.

Mine now has just under 180,000km (indicated) on it. Since 100k it's been running a wastegate bleed and exhaust, and since ~150k it's had the T3/4, PowerFC and a slightly raised redline (7500rpm). It's been to the drags a few times, and does see its fair share of spirited driving, but it also gets regular servicing and plenty of mechanical sympathy. A motor that is turbo'd from the factory is engineered to be turbocharged. As someone mentioned before, this means that the entire motor is designed to take the kind of forces higher than atmospheric pressures can put on it. They're no more likely to fall apart than an NA motor. Two points: 1) It's already been covered, but turbo engines tend to be very easy to get 'a bit' more power out of, so heaps of people do so. The problem is that commonly the ECU is left untuned, despite the stock computer often operating outside of its usual parameters. 2) Turbo engines (with the general exception of diesels) tend to be 'sporty' engines, and as such, tend to see more hard use than your average NA engine. With similar use, I don't see why a well-maintained turbo motor couldn't last just as long as a well-maintained NA motor.

Here's the membership form. I don't have the PO Box details handy so I'll wait for slip or Gary to post that up