Revhead

Slow revs, or slow speed? RB20's won't have anywhere near the low-end torque of the F2T in the MX6, but should kill it in the top end. In other words, unless you have problems or his is modded, under 30-40km/h rollons he will beat you, but after that, he sees tail lights Put it on a dyno and have your AFR's checked. It's possible that the Mines computer was tuned for a completely different car (different turbo, cams, compression, capacity, god who knows), which would explain less than optimal performance. How is it in the higher gears?

If the box is big enough, just bolt the amp to the side of the box, and then all you have to do is find somewhere to securely mount the sub box without compromising boot space too much. Don't forget that the amp needs decent ventilation too, sounds simple but I've seen a few where they've just whacked it in a corner under a cover... When I had my stereo in, I just ran the RCAs (I had two) up the trans tunnel, as far away from other wiring as I could to reduce noise, then it went under the back seat and through one of the factory holes in behind the seat back. For my own peace of mind I used a bit of rubber to pad the wiring, so it wouldn't rub through on the metal, but it'd probably be OK. Power and earth are really easy in the R33s as the battery is in the boot. I just ran 2 guage wiring to my sub amp, and 4 guage stuff to my splits amp, straight from the battery (but fused, of course!). The wiring can be passed through some holes in the battery mount and under the carpet to keep things tidy, but for crying out loud, make sure you insulate the wires properly, as this is the last place you'd want anything to short!!! Earths I just ran to one of the bolts holding the boot lock mechanism in, again, this went under the carpet. Umm that's all I can think of at the moment. If you run up against any specific problems, post back here.

Apologies if my previous post came across a bit harsh, it wasn't intended that way, but I stand by what I said. I never said you can't have a high peak power reading and have a quick car, just that one does not automatically mean you get the other. Just to clarify, in my first post I said I'd take a fat torque curve over a high PEAK power reading, not an average one.Average power and peak power are two different characteristics of an engine. One is taken at a specific part of the rev range, and the other describes how useable a sizeable portion of the rev range is. Would I take a 20kW peak power increase for 6k? Yes, if the rest of the rev range showed a suitable improvement that is not mentioned when talking purely about a peak power reading. While I have not built "these" cars, I have been involved in the build of a couple of other cars where these theories have been put into practice. An 11 second VLT that made 15rwkW *less* but knocked 3/10 off its time (and felt 10x more grunty on the street) without touching tyres, suspension, gearbox or diff comes to mind, as does a 351 Capri, that went from 9.6 to 9.45 by getting a cam made up that spread the power over a wider section of the powerband, dispite losing some peak power in the process. It's common sense stuff, and both of these cars are much nicer to drive on the street. On a side note, I might have to look up the Serious Performance 5 DVD, a whole stack of 'lines being tested can't be a bad thing

Forget about peak power readings. Why would having similar peak power readings, but with a much quicker, easily controllable, more fun package be disappointing? You can't say "ooh er, look at my peak power reading", but if your goal is to impress people, show someone that knows what they're on about and they'd look at the WHOLE graph and go all ga-ga. If you want it for yourself to have more fun in/go quicker around a track, I'd take a fat torque curve over a high peak power figure any day. I could put together a 200rwkW car that is painful to drive, and a 250rwkW car that is both quicker in a straight line and around corners. I could also build a 200rwkW car that is quicker than a 250rwkW car. It's all about useable power and how accessible the power is. Fat midrange and not having boost come in like a light switch will give you that.

I'm guessing you'd be an annoying prick to work for... lol I'd be interested to hear what it makes too, don't mind the ol' 30s I'm a bit behind the 8 ball, what's done to it? So far I know it has flash custom driveshafts and modded FMIC

Am I the only one immature enough to find these funny?

I ran 12psi on my stock turbo/stock cooler for 3 years, and around 80,000 of the 100,000km I've put on the car, including multiple skidpan days and a couple of trips to the drags. It even had the stock ECU until I put a Mines ECU in for the last 6 months of that. Now I'm running a T3/4, and on 10psi it's heaps quicker than the stocker was on 12psi. I certainly wouldn't say that running 12psi is a recipe for disaster as some people seem to be alluding here, and limiting boost to single figures to stop parts of your engine from exploding is completely unneccessary, but if it helps keep your mind at ease then go for it. A turbo engine is really no more unreliable than a non-turbo engine. Just look after it and make sure it's tuned properly and you will enjoy many boost-happy years Agree with Spooks on the point about getting it inspected by YOUR mechanic, not one the car yard/person you're buying from suggests. Other things to check are to make sure it idles smoothly, revs cleanly under load, and doesn't smoke excessively. Expect a little black smoke under heavy acceleration, particularly if boost is higher than stock or it has an aftermarket ECU, but anything else (white/blue or if it's pissing out) turn and run. Go up a hill in 4th at 80-ish and nail it. Listen for clutch slip. Pop the bonnet and look for oil leaks around the turbo, and look for excessive blow-by around the hose clamps on the intake. Also when you drive it, check the synchros, if it crunches heavily between gears then the gearbox will need a rebuild. Look at the tyres and check for signs of uneven wear, which can mean either bad wheel alignment, or suspension problems. Also do the usual check for rust, accident repairs, condition, dodginess etc. This is all stuff that applies to all cars, turbo or NA, Skyline or not. That's all I can think of atm, but there are no doubt other things to check out.

Do you have any more info/pics/vids of this Patrol?? Sounds like a beast

Bah you pansy That's half the fun of riding Car is looking good though, should come up better than factory!

Well I can tell you that there is a HEAP of work in coverting to manual. PM Gary1 (who is the guy Jayson was referring to), his should just about be finished by now, if it isn't already, and is also in Brisbane (southside). I'm sure he'd be happy to help out, no doubt he'd be happy to meet another Stagea owner Anyway, this is all from memory, but here goes: He used an R32 GTR box (reco'd), but you need the R34 GTR clutch master and slave, R34 GTR pedal box (R33 doesn't fit), the firewall and (I think) trans tunnel need to be modified, as Nissan used different metalwork auto to manual for some reason. I think you also need Stagea interior trim, as I think the GTT manual console doesn't fit, and you also need the Stagea dash (GTR one is different). There was something about the tailshaft too, but it's not a bad idea to replace both diffs anyway, as from memory the autos run 4.3:1, instead of 4.111:1. There may also be some wiring changes too, but I have no farkin idea what they were All in all, yes it's doable, but it is a lot of work.

I'm still guessing coils. They're notorious for failing. There is a thread on here about coils having hairline cracks in them, I cbf looking it up but if you do a search you should be able to find it.

True - maybe extra points for self-installed systems or something? Dunno. Fwiw I'm more impressed by a system that has not had bucketloads of money thrown at it, but still sounds good, regardless of what it looks like (to an extent of course). Kind of an anti "chequebook competitor" stance

I mounted both of my amps on the sides of the sub box (one on each side) - with an 85 litre box, there's plenty of mounting space See attachment... this thing used to put out some sound for a single sub setup. Now that I've pulled the subbie out, I just have the remaining amp screwed to the stock floor - and it's been like that for 6+ months. It's been through a full skidpan day like that, and some 'spirited' driving, and it hasn't moved a millimetre.

Marc, as in me? lol I don't have any industry experience or anything so I don't know how good I'd be at judging, but I'm more than happy to give a layman's opinion on quality of sound, installation etc. I might be able to get Chris Rogers (from Sound Off) to come for a wander if you're interested though, to add to the professional judging.

Re not having a diags screw - if it's the factory ECU, it will definitely have one. It's right next to the LED.

All I can think of is that the LED on your ECU is dead (and I assume that you have the single LED ECU). Basically, you turn the key on, and the LED glows on the ECU. You turn the screw as far as it'll go clockwise (careful, they're fragile). Wait a couple of seconds, then turn it back. You're now in diagnostics mode 2 and the LED should flash out error codes (which have been posted elsewhere, and I assume you already have). To get into the oxygen sensor test mode, then start and warm up the engine, then hold it at 2k rpm in neutral. LED on = lean, off = rich. Go by the trend of the light - mostly on = lean, mostly off = rich. 1-2 flashes every two seconds is about normal.

I have a removable section of pipe in my exhaust - it's about 4ft long, and removes the cat convertor, up to where the centre muffler used to be. In its place goes a piece of 3" pipe, with absolutely nothing in it except for a thread to put the sensor in, and a small curve at the end to angle the exhaust down and left. It's LOUD once the revs pick up

One lady owner, only driven on Sundays... How you doing Pete? Bloody hell I thought you'd been abducted by aliens

Read the instruction a bit more carefully... there's more to diags mode than turning the key. Hint - it involves the screw on the side of the ECU.

A slipping clutch is generally easier to hear than to feel as such - the revs will pick up faster than the speed does, so you could say that it's what you're "not" feeling that's the problem If you're not sure what to look for, it kind of feels like you're getting wheelspin. Not far from my place there is a nice steep uphill section that's right next to a cement barrier - makes it very easy to listen out for this (and to spooling, exhaust, etc ) Basically if you get up it, and you think the clutch is slipping, back off the throttle and see if the revs drop more than a hundred rpm or so. Higher gears are better as there is more force acting against the engine, therefore the clutch is more likely to slip. As for pinging, it sounds like a 'ting-ting-ting' noise. If you were to hit the block with a screwdriver, the sound would be similar to that. It might be fairly hard to hear or it might be really loud (danger will robinson!), and it might only happen once or twice a second, or many times a second. Any pinging is bad. Basically it means that the engine is detonating, usually due to timing being too far advanced, which pushes combustion pressures waaay above where they should be, increases heat, melts pistons, flogs out bearings and gudgeons and generally is a Bad Thing ™.

Re the alarm - I highly recommend Chris Rogers from Soundoff. He's mobile, but he northside too actually so it'd suit you to a tee. The man knows his shit. Mention SAU and tell him I referred you Ph 0407 102 839 For powder coating, PM Gary1 from these forums. He used to do that kind of thing for a living before a career change, no doubt he'd be able to recommend some good places. On a side note - service the car immediately, and replace timing belt and idler/tensioner bearings or at the very least pull the timing cover off and inspect them. Also take it for a drive, head up a steepish hill at 80 or 100km/h, and nail it in 4th. As the car starts making power, listen for clutch slip. Also listen for pinging (back the fark off the throttle if you hear it!) and have a friend follow you looking for smoke of any description. A little fuel smoke when you first hit the throttle is generally ok, particularly if the boost is higher than stock, but if it continues or isn't black, back off and have it investigated. You probably already know all this but I've said it anyway They're all things I'd do regardless of what the previous owner says, for my own peace of mind.

OMG it needs new wiper blades!!! Better clean out the slush fund Compression is very good, nice and even and fairly high too, w00t Sounds like at least the engine is in decent condition, if you're happy with the rest of the car then it looks like you may well have found a bargain, congratulations. Bastard.

That VIN is the number it gets after being complied in Australia. Look at the plate in the back corner of then engine bay - next to the brake booster, I think it's there.

My understanding is that the R33 will go into 'failsafe' mode, ie lock the wheels dead straight, if a problem is detected with the HICAS. In that case I can't really see a problem with leaving it as is. That said, Skylinegeoff (iirc) on these forums sells HICAS lock kits for $100.