Revhead

Hehe I know where I can get a set of really big drags wheels/tyres, off of a 7 second drag car... I'm still trying to figure out how far I'd need to lip the guards to fit the 25" wide or so wheels... I reckon I could do a rev-limiter launch in first gear once they've been warmed up and it'd still bog down :bahaha:

When that kind of thing happens, I don't stand on the brakes, cos I don't like being hit up the arse (no smutty comments thanks ), I just back off the throttle, and stay off it until they get the message. I had some farkwit in an old Camry tailgating me last night in the rain, we were the only two cars on a four lane, two way road. Good move moron... wet road, low visibility, and also tailgating a car with brakes that are more than likely far better than yours. Did the ol' tap the brake pedal thing (just enough to get the brake lights working), he's still there. So I back off the throttle, I'm actually back to second gear before he gets the message. Blows by (well, in 4cyl Camry terms anyway) and I give him a beep on the way past. We stop at the lights side by side, he's going off his nut at me through his open passenger window, I wind down my window, wait for it to go aaaall the way to the bottom, glare at him and say "shut the f**k up you tailgating little cvnt before you get hurt"... and he did, hehe :bahaha: Friggen psycho little school kids

Yes. It's one of those laws that looks good on paper but doesn't really work that well in real life. It also leaves the door open for cops who really want to book you for something. A bit like the "unneccessary show of speed" law - it's something to fall back on when there's nothing else they can legitimately do you for, and because it's very subjective, it's hard to argue against.

Don't think that being a careful driver is any substitute for proper driver training. No matter how careful you are, eventually some tool will force you to take evasive action. Practice at skidpan days has saved my car and possibly my life on at least one occasion...

If you have a dodgy AFM then there's a fair chance the idle's jumped because the ECU's in limp mode. Dodgy TPS shouldn't cause the idle to jump - I think the ECU resets its throttle reading when you start the car, ie it makes whatever it's reading then as 0% throttle. I have the exact same ticking noise on my car. It's a worn lash adjuster. Nothing to worry about, just annoying. The reason it only ticks at or near idle is because that's when oil pressure is at its lowest, and if the adjuster is worn it'll return the oil more quickly than it should and so 'bleeds' itself. Think about trying to blow up a balloon with a small hole in it. If you only blow a little bit, it will stay flat. It you blow harder, so that you're putting in more air than the hole is letting out, the balloon will stay inflated. Different oil doesn't fix it - well maybe something like 80W90 would, but that's not a good idea

Would be up around 200 at a guess. Easiest way is to go halfway up the tacho, then double the speedo. Eg if it cuts out at 8000, go to 4k and read the speedo. If it shows say 98km/h, double that. That'd be your 'indicated' speed anyway, as for how fast you're really going, well who really knows, but as an indication, at 110 on the speedo my PFC shows 106.

No I don't have my guards rolled, but they will be hopefully in the not too distant future. All I did is the old 'cut the paint along the seam' trick and carefully bent the lip up and out of the way. It still touches but no longer grabs, and the paint on the guard is still fine. I'm planning on a full respray in the not too distant future though, so I'll be getting the guards rolled a touch then.

I saved up and bought my first car, with no handouts from mum and dad. It was a shitty old VC Commodore with a rooted 173 and rooted 4 speed manual, but apart from that was as tidy as you could expect for $900. I learned a lot of what I know (which isn't much ) from this car - I did an engine/gearbox swap (mild 202, Celica 5 spd), learned how to change the clutch, brakes/pads, suspension, wheels, tyres, and, after loaning it to my brother, the diff. I upgraded the head, valves, exhaust, cam, carb, ignition etc. I might not be qualified to be a mechanic, but I'm confident that I can get myself out of "most" situations if caught in the middle of nowhere with, say, a clutch problem. After getting sick of chewing 20L/100km and *maybe* breaking into the 14s on a really good day when the temperamental old thing would actually run properly, I took out a loan and bought my R33 (I was 20 at the time). Thanks in part to what I learned mucking around with the Commodore, I'm confident that I can get myself out of trouble with mechanical problems in the 33 - at the end of the day, it's still just a car. It's more complicated, but things work basically the same way. Again, I'm no guru, but the little that I do know could mean the difference between a few hours on the side of the road, and a long, expensive tow to an expensive workshop. I suppose what I'm saying is that, although I can see the point that some parents want their kids to have a "good" car to start out in, sometimes it's good to a) make them work for it themselves, and B) make them start out in something that requires a bit of elbow grease to keep on the road. I'm not bagging the people whose parents have bought them their first car, I just think that there is merit in buying your first car yourself. Perhaps one way to do it is if the parents buy the *second* car, once the kiddies have spent a year or two with their first car and learned all the important, basic stuff. Err... geez, strayed a bit off topic haven't we

Nah 8' won't fit at all. 8" does though... I have 17x8s with 235/45s and they catch the lip on the outer guards at the front (car is lowered). No problems at the back.

How observant j/k, I know what you mean

My younger brother has been without a license for around six years now - he only had it for a total of six months (suspended 3?? or 4?? times) before that. Something like $20k or $25k in fines. I saw a photo of his car blu-tacked to the dash of a parked cop car too... :eek: Thankfully he's seen the error of his ways, but he's still paying off the fines, and will be for a while yet... I've been fined for unregistered which, to the letter of the law, was right, but I drove the car around a traffic island in front of my house to make sure that the clutch I'd just adjusted was taking up right. 20m from home, on a street that sees maybe 25 cars a day... thankfully the SS cop car valve bounced down the street at twice the speed limit and nearly ran into me, and saved the busload of school kids that I was no doubt endangering $480 later... The only other fine I have is undue noise, which was $130 iirc and no points (it was classed as "involuntary undue noise"). I've just been lucky not to have more fines, but not driving like a tool helps!

Well my bike indicates 134km/h on the rev limiter in first gear, which is half way between second and third in the line, and with a bad launch (~2.1 60') that'll be over in around 5 seconds. Half track at the drags in 7.4 at just over 105mph (~169km/h), which would be the top of third gear in the line, so you'd need to change gears three times (into fourth) in that 7½ seconds. You'd be in first for about 1½ sec of that given the crap launch, in second for maybe 2½ sec, and third would be the other 3½ seconds. A proper launch would easily wipe a few tenths off that. So if you can imagine having to change gears that quickly, control the throttle and the clutch, and keep it off the walls, you've got a fair idea. The bike is quicker at half track than the car is at full track It's a pretty cool feeling crossing the 400m mark at well over 200km/h I need to scab a ride on a GSXR1000 or something, now THAT would be exciting down the strip... Running the bike has actually given me better car control - the Skyline is much slower, so there's more time to think. What I mean is, I know what 170km/h in under 7.5 sec feels like, so doing less than 130km/h in 9.5 sec is much easier. Not trying to sound like a tool, just trying (badly) to explain it

Play nice now Shell

Hehe it feels like a need a lighter flywheel In mine, third and fourth are the best gears - it only really starts to boogie once the needle is past 100km/h, and over 160km/h it really shines. Fifth is a bit tall for good acceleration until you start making serious power, but it'll still pull the needle all the way around until it hits the fuel gauge, great for novelty points :wassup: Only problem is that you can only really use it to its best on the track. Second is still good fun (and great for blowing away ricers) but out on the track is where it comes into its own.

I'd prefer to see ME driving around in a GTR

I've been through an RBT and have also had it parked outside the cop shop (so obviously plenty of police walking past) and have never had a problem.

I like pretty much anything - personal favourite would have to be action shots, capturing the moment kinda shots though. But if it's a good pic, it's a good pic, regardless of what the car is/isn't doing. I must admit though, I'm intrigued Christian. Sure you can't give us a hint??

Oops too slow...

Er dude I don't think that's what he meant. My impression of it was the only idiotic Skyline driver he sees is in a particular R31 - only the one idiotic driver, therefore "every" stupid Skyline driver he's seen has been driving an R31. Take a pill man.

I haven't been out to the drags in a while, but when it was bone stock except for 12psi, pod, 3" exhaust and a mildly slipping clutch, I ran [email protected] . Best mph was 102.09. http://members.optushome.com.au/turbo202/C..._TC_22Sep_3.jpg Once I've got the PFC tuned and the cooler piping hooked up, I'll be taking it out again to see how much difference the T3/4, FMIC, PFC and brass button clutch make Was tempting to post up the timecards for the bike...

It couldn't guess inner tube (the bit inside some tyres, obviously the non-tubeless ones )

I dunno how this engineer can say he's driven on 8psi and not noticed it... although I've never experienced it in my 'line (I check all five tyres regularly), in my Mum's early model Excel, I've driven it before, thought 'god that front left feel like shit', pulled into a servo and there's been 20psi in the front left. If someone like me can pick that a tyre is down on pressure, why the hell can't a tyre engineer figure it out? It is a bit hard to tell properly from the photos, but the way the sidewall has been torn apart indicates a rather sudden let-go, not a gradual wearing-through from low pressure. That said, a sudden release of pressure accompanied by a compromise of the structural integrity of the tyre (ie something sharp piercing it) could cause something like this. He might have just been unlucky? Regardless, it is a good warning to others to ensure that you look after your tyres. They're fuggen important, keep them at the right pressure and don't skimp on quality!!

It's really annoying... I've had mine for close on four years now. It was one of the first late-model Skylines around my area - even a year later, I had people asking "what is that?". Once a couple started getting around the area, we'd wave and pull over for a chat, but these days it's very unusual for them *not* to act like a tool. Apart from being very disappointing, it also forces the police to pay more attention to me, perhaps thinking I'm one of those idiots...

I thought Robin Hood: Men in Tights was cool Agree with the Matrix 3 bit... good efects, but it had nothing on the second one, let alone the brilliance of the first one!