Revhead

PMs sent... sorry for the delay, have been at work all week without net access. Lemme know if anyone has problems

INASNT I think your inbox may be full. Paul, if you get two copies, then I apologise I'll most likely be unable to post until next weekend, so could someone pass on my messages to those who ask please?

Race track actually... that OK?

Do you mean to draw them? They were actually drawn by an artist in Japan, so even your pics would be imports If you mean the frames, I had them done at a local arts & crafts shop, it took about a week for them to make both.

Yeah the photos really don't do them justice. There's heaps of detail in them and look good hung in a games room next to a pool table, in the lounge room, study, ceiling in the bedroom, etc. Well worth the relatively minimal cost, and you'll be doing the club a favour! Makes you feel all warm and fuzzy don't it?

PMs sent.

OK here's the ones I had framed. Don't worry about what's behind the pics, I just tried to put them somewhere that made it easy to take the pics Note that there ARE MORE PICTURES, ie you can get the KPGC110, R32 etc, and obviously the price Gary quoted does NOT include the frames!

With the stock ECU, mine used to cut at ~5,000rpm as stated, which was just past vertical on the speedo. I happened to be beside a mate's S6 RX7 on a couple of these occasions , his car cut about a second before mine did.

If you could PM me it'd be good. I know of one way to get into the 33 without causing any damage whatsoever, and it's quite an easy fix, I just want to make sure that I haven't missed something else! Obviously an alarm will still make noise but won't stop someone from actually getting in...

You're just around the corner from me, I live near the bridge going into the CBD Used to live at Karana Downs too, heaps nicer...

Hi Jay If you could make me a set that'd be excellent I'll PM you my details.

Hi Muz If it's not too much trouble, it'd be much appreciated My Japanese is pretty rusty but I should be able to read enough to get by! Thanks.

Sounds like you're probably just running a really thin oil - normally in warmer weather you'd run something slightly thicker.

Any chance of scanning/posting the BNR3x ones???

Just thought I'd pass on my positive experience with these guys. Some of you may remember that we had a members' night there early last year and were issued with some VIP cards. Anyway, I rang to price some wheels, and ended up driving in (from the other side of Ipswich) to speak to Tony. As soon as I mentioned SAU he said "no worries, we'll look after you", and helped me select wheels and tyres. I'm not the most decisive person on the planet so this took a while, but Tony was quite patient. I decided against 18s because of recurrent cost (due to the number of kays I do) on Tony's advice. Despite not having an appointment, the guys managed to squeeze me in and I drove out with a fresh set of 17x8 ROH 'Drift R' wheels and Falken 235/45ZR17 rubber, for a very competitive price. I should also mention that they were VERY careful putting the wheels on, using a cross brace instead of air tools and ensuring that the balancing machinery didn't scratch the rims. To top it off, the car drives very nicely, not a single shake and the wheel sits perfectly straight. The service was fantastic, the staff were friendly, and the price and quality of the product is outstanding. I am one happy customer

You'll have a fair bit of trouble finding someone who stocks gaskets - Nissan doesn't list anything, Holden only list a flange gasket. Repco/Autobarn/Walkers don't have listings for them at all. What I ended up doing was getting some asbestos extractor gasket material and cutting my own gaskets, but I believe this is illegal to sell as of new years', so you may have to resort to gasket goo. qik, see you at Drag Combat

I'll be in for sure, but I'll be meeting you guys out there... I live in Ipswich, so I won't be driving to the coast/brisvegas and then to Willowbank, that'd be taking the long way around for what is normally a 10 minute drive

Good guide pushead - that should probably go in the FAQs. Your effort isn't wasted, someone will use it

I did this recently myself, bolting up my new turbo where do i disconnect the dump pipe at the turbo or where it bolts onto the main exhaust (300mm away from turbo) Unbolt it at the rear of the turbo, where the dump pipe bolts on. what is the best method for removing the oil and water lines how do i get to the rear oil or water line right next to the exhaust manifold I just used a 24mm (I think) spanner. It's FAR easier to get at it from beneath the car, get it on a hoist if you can. As for the other lines, they just unbolt. do i remove the exhaust manifold or just unbolt turbo from it Just unbolt the turbo from the exhaust manifold. There are four bolts, I think they're 17mm from memory. when i pull water and oil lines off will i need to plug them up or will they not leak They will leak, but don't worry about plugging them up unless you're worried about making a mess. Just top up afterwards. Are there any gaskets i need You may have one between the turbo and the dump pipe. The one between the turbo and the exhaust manifold should be OK to reuse. If the top oil feed on your turbo has the two-bolt connection and you undo it (you don't need to) then you'll need another gasket in there. It's advisable to replace the nylon bushes around each of the fittings into the turbo too. Any other information that may help me with the removal and installation of new turbo You should be able to find a bit more info in my other thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=30556

Sweet I sorta meant just whack some cellophane over the lenses but if you've already fixed it then good stuff

If you just want to get the canary off, can't you just use cellophane or something? I'd still do it properly but getting rid of the canary would no doubt be your first priority...

Got some more pics: This is the loop in the return line I was talking about. Another view so you can see where the fitting goes into the block. Note the bracket to mount the other metal hose - putting the bolt in here puts too much stress on the pipework for my liking. Here's the stock wastegate actuator. Note the clean spot where it was fouling on the intake piping. Modifying the wastegate actuator using a template. I ended up slightly changing it due to overall length of the bar. The completed wastegate actuator. I had the further modify the bracket to clear the reshaped bar, but it's all good now

Oh, and Cameron - does your brother have the stock BOV? I'm told that they leak over about 10-12psi or so, which might explain the bleeding off of boost.

Absolutely - it hasn't been dyno'd yet (waiting for FMIC and programmable ECU) but it's already a damn sight quicker. Note that the turbo has T4 internals so it wasn't just a case of bolting on a stocker. I wouldn't have bothered if that was the case. It could no doubt might make similar power with much less lag with a different turbo, but for the ludicrously cheap price and DIY factor (and the fact that I'm planning on doing more work to take advantage of the top-end flow of this turbo), I'm more than happy. The VL turbo is very similar to the stock R33 one in design (water cooled, ball bearing) so I dunno whether it'd be classed as old school.

What pics do you want? I won't be dismantling anything for at least a week or two (cooler arrives then) but I can get shots under the car of the piping, more mounting pics etc. The turbo was rebuilt to run 25psi on a mate's VL Turbo wagon - as such it really comes into ats own over 1 bar. I'm not running anything like that (stock internals for now) but on the VL it would hold 22psi all the way to 7000rpm, and that's using the bleed valve shown in my pics. The reason I now have the turbo is that he cracked his block. Be careful running 20psi on standard internals, particularly if you're not using programmable management...