Revhead

I bought my '33 with 74,000 on the clock (skeptical), now has 164,000. Only things that have gone wrong is the clutch (it just wore out) and the ECU stopped sending tacho signals, but otherwise worked perfectly?? The only problem with the engine is one lash adjuster seems to be worn so it has a light ticking noise occasionally, but otherwise it's been 100% reliable. I service it every 5,000km -7,500km with full synthetic oil and filters changed etc and treat it with mechanical sympathy, so that's gotta help longevity.

Thanks I should clarify the lag thing. Between 3500 and 4500 it loses very little to the stock turbo, it's just that at 4500 it kicks in HARD With the heatshield in place, you'd never know... Closeup of the exhaust flange. I've since fixed the bolts but you see what I mean about the extra metal they have to go through and clearance against the dump pipe Told you the turbo -> cooler pipe was a tight fit at the moment Oxygen sensor out of the way This is where the wastegate actuator fouls on the turbo. It's a bit hard to pick it here, but this is looking straight down on the wastegate actuator itself, and it's fouling on the outlet of the intake side of the turbo (if that makes sense) Looks pretty stock - even the turbo still has "Nissan Motor" cast into it. Useful for those pesky roadside inpections...

That's sorta what I was getting at

"Hit em once, hit em hard" is pretty common from what I hear

I've always done as much as possible for myself - it saves you money and gives you the satisfaction of doing it yourself. That said, if you're not 100% confident, don't try it, because cars can be very expensive to fix if something goes wrong. I've been pretty lucky, my dad owns a workshop so I have a hoist, tools, fabrication equipment, and he's there to guide me through anything I hadn't done before, but I learned by crawling around on the dirt/grass under my Commodore...

Agree with Joel - the wastegate bleed was the best mod I did to my car. It massively fattens the midrange, making the car much quicker in real-world driving. Joel - did you check the fuel pressure after the pump change? Swapping the pump out shouldn't cause problems by itself, but if the rail pressure goes up as a consequence the car will run like a bag of crap.

I've just done this myself and thought you guys could probably benefit from my mistakes Will post pics when I get them. I didn't get any pics of the build as my camera was flat and I wasn't going to wait around until it was charged... I was pretty keen!! 1. Try to source as many of the bolt-on bits for the VL turbo as you can, particularly the dump pipe. Oil/water lines would be handy too. 2. Obviously you'll need to compare the turbos, so remove both and put them side-by-side on a bench. Note the steel-wheeled goodness of the VLT compressor :aroused: 3. Note that the wastegate on the RB25 is built into the exhaust housing of the turbo, whereas it's in the dump pipe of the VL turbo. Cut the dump pipe shortly after where the wastegate section finishes, then machine it back so that it's a nice, flat piece of steel. You could weld this to the exhaust housing on the turbo, but I chose not to. 4. Using the freshly-cut wastegate section of the dump pipe as a template, cut a new flange for the R33 exhaust. Cut off the existing flange, weld the new one on, and clean it up with a dremel, being careful not to damage the oxy sensor (remove it if you can, otherwise stuff a clean rag down the pipe). Make SURE that the new flange is angled to sit flush on the back of the turbo - dummy fit to be certain. Mine was close but needed some work to stop exhaust leaks at the flange. 5. Rotate the housings so that everything sits the same as the stock RB25 turbo - oil return line should be on the bottom. Sit the wastegate section of the exhaust on the back of the turbo, and turn the intake housing until the wastegate actuator bolts on and can work the wastegate without binding on the wastegate shaft. Use the actuator from the RB25 turbo, as it has a bend in it to clear part of the snail. It will still foul on the turbo once the piping is in place - see next step. 6. You'll need to modify the bar on the wastegate actuator so that it clears the turbo - with the pipework and clamps in place. You'll need to reshape it so that it retains the same overall length, so that the wastegate opens/closes correctly. 7. Bolt the turbo to the exhaust manifold and fit the oil and water lines. Some of them will NOT fit - the one on the top of the turbo (as it sits when fitted) misses by a good inch or so. I tried bending it with a small pipe bender, but it ended up being easier to just break the piping a few inches from either end, flare the ends, and use some reinforced, high pressure, high temp hose. I used 5/16" hose that's intended for an oil cooler, and put a large loop in it to avoid kinking and damage to the hose after many hot/cold cycles. The line that comes from the back of the block falls in the right place, but needs to be rotated a few degrees to line up properly. The oil return line fits perfectly, though I replaced the hose with a new, slightly longer one for my own piece of mind. The stock heat shield no longer fits, so you can either delete it (I'll be making a replacement) or modify the mounts. If you remove it, you'll have to relocated the wiring for the oxygen sensor. I zip-tied mine to the aircon lines for the time being. 8. Notice the cast 90 degree bend on the factory R33 turbo? It bends 90 degrees with a twist in it, and also goes from 2.25" to 2" at the turbo. Naturally, it doesn't bolt onto the 'new' turbo, so I ended up using a piece of 2" pipe with a 90 deg mandrell bend from a local exhaust shop, and two short pieces of reinforced hose, one each of 2" and 2.25" ID. Make sure the pipe you get isn't going to rust or flake off into your intake - get it powdercoated if you're keen. Cut one end of the pipe almost up to the bend - it'll need to fit between the turbine outlet and the power steering reservoir with enough space to clamp the piece of 2" hose on properly. The other end connects to the factory intercooler plumbing using the 2.25" hose, with one end clamped down hard to make it fit the 2" pipe. Not pretty, but I'm replacing it in a couple of weeks when my intercooler arrives, so didn't see the point of making it showy for such a short period. When that arrives, I'll be making a new pipe from stainless, and the bend from the turbo will be made from two or three bends welded together to make a smooth curve with plenty of clearance. 9. The factory piping from the AFM will slip straight over the nose of the turbo. Sit the return pipe from the cooler in place and connect the wastegate back up. I changed bleed valves while I was at it, so I needed to modify the wastegate plumbing - if you do the same, plug any holes. My new turbo had a small fitting on the front of it too, put a bit of hose on that too and plug it. Reconnect the rest of the intake plumbing. 10. Bolt the exhaust up. The bolts from the VL turbo will hold, but only by about two threads in my case, due to the extra metal it has to go through (remember the exhaust flange??). I managed to find slightly longer replacements at a local nuts n bolts place. Finished? Not quite... on my car, the longer bolts wouldn't go into the holes because they fouled on the dump pipe, so I had to dremel a bit of a chamfer on three or four of the holes and drop the dump again to fit the bolts. Once that's all done, take it for a spin... mwuahaha Notes The turbo I used is a T3 with T4 internals and larger exhaust housing, so boost comes on much later than it would with a stock VL turbo. Don't forget that the RB25 is down 500mL on the VL engine so expect slightly more lag. The car is completely different to drive. The turbo starts to whistle around 1300rpm, usable boost at around 3000, and a real power kick (like a light switch actually, woohoo ) at around 4500. There is absolutely no power drop as the redline approaches. The car makes noticeably more power at 10psi than it did with the old turbo and 13psi. It needs the new intercooler pretty badly, it takes no time to heat-soak the stocker - around 5 or 10 sec of hard acceleration will do it. Apart from that, I'll be dialling in the cams to improve response and getting a PowerFC/Wolf/something to make sure it's all AOK - I'm taking it easy until then. The exhaust is a little bit louder and slightly more droney, no doubt due to the larger/less restrictive exhaust housing on the new turbo. Also, that annoying 'whoosh' noise through the intake is gone, replaced by a proper turbo whistle. I'll edit this post and add some pictures when I get 'em.

Yeah I wouldn't worry too much about it, but it's worth fixing, especially if it is the rubber gasket - small leaks are OK, it's when they grow that the probs start It could also be blow-by from the intake piping, which runs along that very spot.

Are they working at all? I mean, do they light up but just not flash? I'm with GTRman, relay is probably gone. Should be under the dash IIRC - can look tomorrow if you like. You should just be able to get one from a locally-delivered Nissan (should have the same plug) and it should work exactly the same. Pull it out and compare it to whatever you're looking at buying.

The *front* wheels? Mate that sounds really wierd, I'd be getting power steering setup checked. I have no idea what could cause the left-right thing but it doesn't sound good. Btw HICAS only works the back wheels, it's probably going mental because it has NFI what the front is doing, ie the sensors are telling it porkies or something.

Obseshn Yeah I've had that too... a tidy old Monaro (HK or something), moron in the back seat said "if it had another four cylinders you might be worthy of a race". My reply was the same as your mate's, word for word Actually we've been on the other end of it too... a few years ago, cruising in a mate's LX Torana, this knob in a WRX looks at us with a derogatory expression and says "farkin V8 knuckle draggers, you just don't get it. Power to weight is where it's at" and gives it a bit of a rev. Naturally we gave it some stick, and the 9 sec tunnel-rammed 383 handed him his arse on a plate Next set of lights we all leaned out the windows and said "power to weight mate, power to weight" and laughed at him etc etc :lol: Oh to be immature again... Best one ever though was a bloke at school who I never got along with, trying to egg me on for a race in my Dad's slow-as-anything 253 HX Premier in rolling traffic. I told him to fark off, and he said "you drive like a pansy, give it some stick, learn how to drive ya farkin retard", and then he gave it a stab and ran up the back of a LandCruiser that was stopped at a red light. I nearly missed the light go green because I was still laughing so hard at him. Probably should have been looking out the front instead of through the side window

We (Gary1 and I) put mine in, let the car warm up and then fanged it. I don't remember how long ago I swapped it (a year, maybe more?) but it's still fine now -it grabs nice and hard, but is still fairly smooth, if you could call a brass button clutch smooth Mine's a 5-puck with a sprung centre and 2750lb pressure plate. I find mine quite easy to drive now that I'm used to it. DJ984 A brass button clutch is still a conventional clutch in terms of physical design, it just has far less contact area, so if you really[/] want to ride it then you still can. A button clutch can "sort of" be ridden, but the grab point comes in very suddenly and if you try to slip it, it will shudder. Once worn in a button clutch loses some of it harshness though - my clutch has an "in between" area between engaged and disengaged. I don't like to use it unless I have to (wears it out in no time) but it has come in handy for those times when I've had to do a hillstart in front of a Police car in the rain

"I don't like that Jap turbo shit, muscle cars are my thing" - friend of a friend who just got out of his stock V6 Commy ute with SS badges "I think your Dad is looking for his car"... to which I replied "I think the wreckers are looking for yours" - pack of yobbos in beaten up EA Falcon "There's no substitute for cubes" - Clubsport owner about 10 seconds before I dusted him in the 33 "Is that turbo?"... after hearing the 33 spool up and the stock BOV (through the pod) between gears I could go on for hours...

It might be as simple as a blown exhaust gasket or loose manifold bolts... the lack of oil etc makes me doubt this a little, but it's a damn sight easier than stripping the head down

Hi guys, thanks for the replies. The tank needs to come out as I've managed to trace a strong fuel smell back to a crack in the tank. From looking at it, it looks like the diff etc has to come out, I was just hoping that there was an easier way to do it

Hi guys I need to get the fuel tank out on my 93 R33 GTS25t (2 door). I've done a search on here, searched the web, looked in the handbook that came with the car (useless) and have absolutely NFI how to get the tank out. Does anyone have access to the relevant pages in a workshop manual, or is there someone here who's done it before and can offer some advice? Thanks in advance.

Thanks for an enjoyable day guys, pity slip couldn't make it (ya girly boy). Sorry if I was holding some of you guys up through the twisties, with the amount of crap on the road (particularly in the damp sections) I wasn't going to risk throwing the bike down the road. I thought I was going to get wet a couple of times but thankfully it turned out to be quite a nice day!

If this is a serious offer call me on 0417 761 243

I had the same dilemma a while ago - I had a 3" dump, 3" cat, and two straight-through 3" mufflers. I had a shop remove my centre muffler and replace it with a flaged piece of 3" pipe. Also had them make a dropped pipe, which comes out under the passenger seat and eliminates the cat too, for drags etc. Anyway, after removing the centre muffler, my car was certainly louder and had a deeper note, but doesn't drone and has quite a nice note. With the dropped pipe on, it's not "that" loud at idle, but you can hear the turbo spool from about 1200rpm, and it sounds like a Nascar when the revs build up around 5k But yeah, whether it's too loud or not will depend on the muffling qualities of your remaining muffler. Mine seems to have been perfect, yours might make it too loud or too quiet. Just try it and see. Don't expect a massive power difference though.

I'll be willing to go to $21k if you have cash/bank cheque. Where abouts are you?

Yes

Thanks. The wing is a personal preference thing, though I actually prefer it to the S2 one Noone wants a 300hp car?

Oops, just saw that it's in November, so I may be a possibility with my brand spanking new vee-hickle Will let you know closer to the date, if there are any spots left of course.

Gary/slip - I'll be coming out but won't be driving as I probably won't have a car by then... not a complete one at least! And no, I'm not taking the bike out

2001 Honda CBR929RR Fireblade 'Erion Racing' Basic Specs 30,000km 929cc, fuel injected, 4 cyl 6 speed constant mesh manual Rare 'Erion Racing' model Mods Micron end can (with the hard to describe 'rainbow' effect) K&N panel filter Double bubble windscreen Ventura bag rack + bag Bridgestone BT012SS tyres (190/120 front/rear, 17" rims) Asking price: $14,500 This bike is absolutely awesome. It'll do over 130km/h in first gear, and will wheelstand off the throttle at illegal speeds in second. The brakes are phenomenal (twin 330mm discs with twin 4-pot callipers on the front) and the handling is exactly what you'd expect out of a FireBlade – excellent. It'll do 300km/h, too; I never made it that far though, I only got to about 260-270 before I ran out of track, but it was still pulling like a train. I've run an [email protected], with a lighter rider and a harder launch it will easily run in the tens. It's no Hayabusa, but I believe it's a better package. Despite being bucketloads of fun on the track, it's also a great road bike – that is, after all, the main reason I bought it in the first place. I regularly ride it from Ipswich to Toowoomba, and get off feeling much the same as when I got on, just a bit colder from the chilly Toowoomba climate Most of the km's on the bike were on the highway, not in heavy city traffic. It is always garaged. It's been serviced every 5,000km by Honda. I was absolutely meticulous with this – it never went over the 5,000km mark without a proper log book service. Possibly over the top, but you know that the bike is in perfect mechanical condition. It's recently had its 25,000km service (shim adjustment). I love the bike and really wish I could keep it. I'm upgrading my car (to a GTR) and can't afford to keep the bike as well, so I very reluctantly offer it for sale. Those who know me can no doubt vouch for how difficult a decision this was. I'm in Ipswich/Brisbane on weekends and in Toowoomba during the week. If you're a serious buyer, I can be contacted on 0417 761 243, or by email at [email protected]. The nature of my work means that I'm sometimes out of mobile phone range, so if you can't get me just leave a message with your contact details and I'll get back to you. And in case you're wondering, no, that's not my bike in my avatar…