Revhead

1993 R33 Skyline GTS25t Basic specs 2.5L DOHC intercooled turbo 5 speed manual 4 wheel steering (HICAS) 'Wine Red' Factory option side skirts and extended front bar Factory 16" alloys Rare factory electric sunroof 155,000km Mods Full turbo-back 3" exhaust – nice note, not too loud K&N pod filter (can supply factory airbox if required) Turbosmart wastegate bleed currently set to 11psi 5-puck brass button clutch (can supply full-face if required) 2750lb pressure plate (standard is 1600lb) Darkest legal tint (T35) Autometer boost guage Turbo timer Platinum spark plugs Full immobiliser and alarm system with remote start and remote central locking (installed by Chris Rogers… plug plug ) Stereo Pioneer DEH-P6050 head unit Alpine splits in the front Factory upgrade Bose carbon fibre rear speakers US Audio 504E amp (4x50W) Fusion 15" dual voice coil sub in custom 85L ported box Asking price: $23,000 It goes well, it handles and it stops. It has run a best ET of 14.18 sec and a best terminal of 102.4mph. The car is tricky to launch with the button clutch but once off the line, it goes very well and there is no way the clutch will slip. With a decent launch it would be an easy 13 sec car, backed up by a private-road run with a S6 RX7 I've serviced it every 7,500km with top quality oils, replaced filters etc. Will sell with 6 months' rego and Mines ECU (on its way from Japan as I type). It has a current safety certificate. This has been an absolutely fantastic car, but it has come time to upgrade and I'm in a position to do so. Mmmm, GTR... I'm in Ipswich/Brisbane on weekends and in Toowoomba during the week. If you're a serious buyer, I can be contacted on 0417 761 243, or by email at [email protected]. The nature of my work means that I'm sometimes out of mobile phone range, so if you can't get me just leave a message with your contact details and I'll get back to you. PICS

I won't be able to make it (I'm in Toowoomba during the week) but good luck with the meeting, and I must say that it's fantastic to see someone taking POSITIVE steps toward legal modifications. It makes a nice change to the constant bitching about "dam piggaz, jus got dun" - complete with dodgy spelling A couple of questions for them though: 1. Is it possible for a pod filter to be legal outside of a sealed box if it's engineered? If so, are there any further requirements? 2. In QLD, what is the story with aftermarket ECUs? Does it just have to pass roadside emissions tests, or does it have to go through some kind of re-compliancing? Is programmable injection OK? 3. What about intercoolers?

I've got Alpine 6.5" splits in mine, and they fit no worries. I simply made up a replacement mount with some thick MDF (iirc it was 18mm or something), it was incredibly easy

Why would six throttle bodies cost more in fuel? It'll give better response because the throttle butterflies are placed closer to the valves, but shouldn't affect fuel economy at all. Agree with slip though, if you want good performance from a NA motor, you'd better be willing to fork out some serious cash compared to the same performance from forced induction. For 50hp over dead stock NA: Extractors, full exhaust, headwork, perhaps shave the head for a bit more compression. You've altered the characteristics of the engine so you should remap the ECU. At a guess that might give you 50hp, I dunno off the top of my head. Turbo: Cat back or turbo back exhaust, wastegate bleed.

I agree with SteveL. The RB25 isn't being pushed as hard as the RB20 - not that the 20 is on a knife edge or anything, it's just working harder. I suppose they couldn't make the RB25 too close to the 26 in terms of power; if it had the same kW/L output it'd be a 200kW motor, probably too similar to the GTR engine. Probably the same reason you couldn't get an R33 GTS4 with the RB25DET in it. Of course this argument doesn't apply to the 34's Neo, which makes a claimed 206kW iirc, so I dunno

Yoda - try www.kazaalite.com Cracked version of Kazaa without the spyware.

Agreed! I've gained plenty of knowledge from these forums, both directly and indirectly. Doomo arigato gozaimashita Apologies if I'm putting words into people's mouths here, but I don't believe there was any malicious intent in Redline's post. I think it was more a case of "I don't understand English, care to fill me in?", not "don't speak Japanese ya tossers" I for one appreciate the guys who can fluently speak both English and Japanese, it makes deciphering manuals, underbonnet stickers and other bits and pieces much less painful. I used to study Japanese at school, apparently I got up to the level of a 12 year old or something, woohoo After not using it for more than 7 years though, to say I'm rusty is an understatement

It's kinda like putting forgies in the engine - by themselves they do just about nothing, it's the further gains the open up doors to that make it worthwhile!

According to my guage, when bone stock I was running 6.5psi off the cam timing, and 8psi on. With the exhaust, this changed to 7psi off, and still 8psi on. Even with a wastegate bleed, mine never goes above 12psi in really cold weather (I've set it to 11psi for 'normal' weather). 14psi sounds wierd. I'd be checking for damaged/partially blocked wastegate lines, or possibly an iffy wastegate actuator.

Could be a loose speedo feed. If the speedo on the R33 is still mechanical, you should be able to feel it if you put your hand up under the dash and reach behind the instruments. I've had my dash apart a couple of times but never bothered to look at what type of speedo connection it has...

The intake plenum can indeed be spotted in that pic. It's the large piece of cast alloy on the left of the pic. If you look at your strut brace and go about ¼ of the way along from the left, that's it under there (the closest bit of the motor to the driver's side strut tower), with the throttle cable running above it. The connection you have circled in your first pic is the line from your plenum to the stock BOV, but seeing as you're running a Turbosmart one, you could just as easily pull the stocker off and put a blanking plate over the holes, because it isn't doing anything.

Lol nice try Actually I went out to Darlington Park on it yesterday. Dayum it was fun... except for the blind corners anyway. Got up to a somewhere over 250 on the straight before I ran out of balls (the corner was coming up mighty quick), absolutely blew past the 250s, lol I was actually catching an R1 on the straight too, must chuffed, lmao

Might be keen... will see how I go. I'm staying in Toowoomba during the week so it's a bit of a hike. Probably more keen for a Saturday one, when I'm back in Ipswich and about 10 mins from the track Not sure whether to take the car or the bike. I wanna try to get the car into the 13s (and I like putting the dumped pipe on it ) but I'm pretty keen to try running a 10 on the bike too (will need to loose some weight first ).

Nice car mate - I'd happily offer my services as a driver but I have a funny feeling I'd be turned down I know how to drive a fast car, my mum's Corolla runs mid 20's at the drags... But seriously, well done on having the patience and determination (and the resources) to complete a project of this magnitude. I have no doubts that it'll be out there kicking some serious butt - I look forward to seeing it in action.

What exactly is the auto trans doing? Not shifting? Shifting wrong? It might be just a coincidence that it happened at the same time as the alarm going in, or maybe the installer accidentally knocked something (like a plug or sensor)? Don't forget that, to run the wiring for the alarm, they usually run them right next to the factory wiring loom, so potential for installation issues is right up there...

This was posted on PF too and I've already replied to it there - so I won't bother repeating it here... except to say that it is the best damn piece of "hoon" related media in recent history.

Yup that's exactly what it is. I think with the Soarers you can't take it out of park without your foot on the brake, sometimes it gets stuck or something and this button is the manual override (ironic on an auto, eh?)

Do you have a need for a complete system all in one brand, or are you willing to mix and match to get the best value for your money? This is personally the way I went - I'm pretty happy with it and none of the items are of the same brand.

I think that site might possibly have some very subtle, well-disguised sarcasm in it. I like it Also, click the link on the right that has the video game mixups on it, some of em are good. I like the last one (Die by the Ford)...

Some of us need all the help we can get slip! Still waiting for parts to arrive so unless something pretty major happens between now and then, I'm out

When some of you guys say that you/someone else has done some digging and found that there are "better options", what were those options? I'll hopefully be getting an aftermarket ECU shortly and am currently tossing up between the Wolf3Dv4 and a Haltech E6K, unless someone has some other, better, alternatives. And yes, I've done a search and plenty of reading but still haven't made up my mind

Try sending him a PM

Is that your car in your pic? The 'lines won at Bathurst and still had the 180km/h cutout, up the Nissans! (kidding) Seriously though, a PFC or dedicated cutout defender would be your best bet. Not sure if the 'wire 53' trick will work on the 32s, but I'd be suggesting that they do (might not be wire 53 though).

If it was your bike, would you take $2k for it? Come on... Good luck with the sale mate, it looks like a tidy bike. My brother has one which I ride from time to time, and I know how good they are.

Yep, for it to be legal you'd would have to convert the right rear seat into something else, ie you can't put a seating position behind a fixed-back seat unless it has its own door/entry