Revhead

It's got me farked where your bass has gone. I have a Fusion fpw-1500 15" run by a Rockford Fosgate 250m2 monoblock amp, also in an R33. There sure as hell isn't any problems with bass with that, and it's in a ported box. The Tool Dunno what you mean by "a ported box won't sound as good in your car". Mine sounds fine, heaps better than my old sealed box, and is absolutely cranks with the low notes.

There should be an easy mid 11 there, maybe low 11 - have a look at the time vs mph for my bike in my sig, and that was with ~2.1 60'. I raced a GSXR600 that ran 123mph, it did 11.5 iirc. Anyway enough of my dribble, congratulations on the time, car sounds like a beast

Hi guys I'm having some problems with my 33t. After a recent short in my alarm system (which has since been rectified), my ECU is no longer outputting a tacho signal, and the HICAS light is on. I've organised to get another ECU (Nismo or something probably) but would like to swap it with another, known working one to make sure that it is indeed the problem before I lay down the cash. By the way, the car is a manual '93. This is where you guys come in If you're able to help out (preferably TODAY) then give me a call on 0417 761 243 and I may even shout you some lunch/dinner if it's that time of the day Sorry for the short notice guys, I only found out about it myself not so long ago... Thanks in advance! Marc

Not really... I tend not to race any more, particularly now I've got my button clutch (it's bloody impossible to launch). I did have a run with a mate's S6 twin turbo RX7 the other night, let's just say we were both very surprised at how it went On the bike I'm yet to be beaten from the lights... but then I haven't raced anyone either, not properly at least, so you could say it's a perfect record It doesn't really start to go until second gear anyway, and if you're right up it, that doesn't start until around 120. Tall gearing rocks

Two words - fark yeah. I'm in for sure. The dump pipe is screaming to be used again, legally this time Gary We could share my car if you want, just buy two spots and drive one car. It's the Stagea's turn next time though

Actually it's generally accepted that, all things being equal, autos use more fuel due to higher drivetrain loss... how you drive it is a different matter

Yeah I dunno what the story is - as I've said, no matter how much I get up it, it's unusual not to get 450-500km out of the tank before the light comes on... some of you guys must pull the bung out of the fuel tank or something

I go down there occasionally and am yet to be given any grief by the police. As Boxhead mentioned, it's a mutual respect thing. Do the right thing and they'll leave you alone. Start doing burnouts and screaming up and down the lanes, and you'll get booked. Pretty simple really. I do take the 33 from time to time, but it hasn't been for a while, mainly due to the fact that some tosser dinted my driver's door in a carpark, then ANOTHER tosser opened their door on the SAME SPOT a couple of weeks later... argh. A lot of people probably wouldn't notice it's there at a casual glance, but I know it's there and it shìts me to tears. Oh, and they got the front guard too. I think the first one was deliberate. Would have loved to have found them in the act, they wouldn't have walked away, that's for sure. It might come out tonight, not sure yet, I'm up for another coast run and the last couple of times I've brought the bike. Hmm...

ALL R33s have their batteries in the boot from the factory, and ALL were supplied with lead acid batteries.

Groan... if it has pushrods it must be a heap of crap eh? What an intelligent, enlightened viewpoint. In Japanase terms the RB series is a dinosaur, but I don't hear too many people putting it down. DOHC is nothing new, it's been around since the sixties. As of yesterday, the top two Summernats Horsepower Heros entrants are running VH Commodores with twin turbo *gasp* pushrod engines. They're making 1190rwhp and 1206rwhp respectively. Not bad for an old boat anchor.

Slip has already posted up some info on Steve. Have a flick through the earlier posts in this thread.

Have heard of Autoforce but don't know them, and AJM is Auto J Mart. I can't vouch for or against either of them as I haven't bought a car from either. I personally would still go through Steve (MR-GTR) if it were me.

Tinted windows are fine as long as they have the ADR sticker (the one that says "T35" or whatever you got). If they were done in Japan, you may need to remove the tint and get them redone, because apparently the Japanese tint isn't up to the stringent standards of our ADRs What was wrong with the boost guage? Did it impede vision?

A basic hint on paying for a car - DON'T use caryard finance!! It's normally horrendously expensive and not particularly forgiving if you read the fine print. They're often financed by places like AGC, I'll let you form your own opinions on that. If you need finance of some sort (as most of us do), organise your own loan through a bank or similar. This also gives you the bonus of being able to bargain with cash.

Well, exactly 12 lives if you believe the 'every k over is a killer' bullshìt

lmao I think this means steel exhaust wheel on the turbo

I was spewing my car didn't beat it... finally got to line it up and buggered the start to the tune of a 3.5 sec 60ft :burnout: It's all Gary's fault Nearly caught the Falc though, despite the horrendous launch. Still a VERY nice car and certainly one to be wary of if you see it on the street. Damn they look horn in that blue...

You are one sick mofo

A capacitor (cap) is basically a very fast-acting battery, ie it stores charge, but can discharge this power much quicker than a conventional battery. The kind you'd use for a stereo installation is a much larger version of the caps you'll see on pretty much any electrical circuit.

I'm with the other guys on this one kabab... high 13s if you're lucky. Mind you that Elf fuel is good shìt

Yeah the bikes rock... for me it's a fight between the 600 roadie and the scooter Have any of you guys got the tank (Rhino)? It's farking brilliant, you can go for ages with a really high wanted level and the cops can't get you unless you stop and they make it to the door... carnage And the vigilante missions are really easy with the tank... aim in the general direction and let off a shell

I'd still be pretty wary of bikes...

I had a similar problem with mine. It actually got to the stage where the driver's window would wind up but not down (thankfully not vice versa). A had a friend of mine look over it, and the small black box that controls the power windows (inside the driver's door) had dry solder joints under one of the relays, ie the relay was practically flopping around and connecting intermittently! Ten seconds with a soldering iron and the problem was solved. It has been perfect ever since (about 18 months now).

Dunno about them worried about 'discrimination'... I'd say they were more worried about losing a few bucks due to not being able to identify the vehicle.Good luck to em getting a numberplate on the front of many bikes... there's nowhere to put it. I know on my bike, the only places it could possibly go is: 1) Over the headlight 2) On the windscreen 3) Below the headlight, fouling on the front wheel at full travel And not one of those areas could satisfactorily accomodate a large, flat plate. They are a bunch of tossers.

It is actually possible to kill an alternator with a big stereo. If you crank your stereo and the headlights dim, your alternator is copping a workout. I would consider a battery upgrade (which you no longer need ) and a capacitor. I've seen a few of them dead from extremely high current draws. I don't know the physics of it all but I believe it's due to the stereo sucking huge power from the battery, then the battery loading up the alternator to replace that draw. When it happens a couple of times a second for minutes/hours at a time repeatedly, it's easy to see how this is not "a good thing"...