ae86 boy

bit more info: http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=66472.0 gtsboy your power sterring is obiously working correctly. see so many 32 owners myself included winge about heavy power steering and this is the reason. trust me when the solenoid is active the steering is that hard to the point of believeing you have no power steering at all. your right though... ghetto as mod

old topic but incase anyone else is after the solition in the future. the problem is the solenoid on the front steering rack. this is controlled by the hicas computer to make the steering really easy at low speed and a bit harder at hi speed 80km+ (when you wouldnt notice the harder steering) When people muck around with the hicas + the 32s getting old these days the hicas computer (located under the rear pacel shelf btw) tells the solenoid to make the steering harder by bypassing power steering flud in the rack sometimes when the car is below 80km which gives it a heavy feel, but not as heavy as no power steering, which is why people often get confused what the hell is going on. the solution! take the solenoid off the front steering rack (3 bolts maybe?), trace the shape out on bit of metal plate, cut out the same shape and simply bolt on a metal plate in its place. Light power steering all the time!

this is where i pulled the picture from. might help describe what im on about a bit better. from what i can tell taking it off wont adversely effect the steering, your right though havnt adjusted the toe yet so ill do that and take it for a test run to make sure it doesnt bind.

on a r32. it had made a difference but yer weirdly there coming no where near the lock stops, i feel the extra turn in my wheel and visualy the wheels turned more but the lock stops at this point dont need any cutting down. not sure if u read my post correctly. at this point in putting in the spacers but am just wondering about taking out the washers that come on the car from factory. ive done a test with the spacers on and the washer thing off and theres no binding so i guess ill lock tight it all up it is strage that im coming no where near the lock stops thought

righto guys so i was doing the steering rack spacer mod when i took the rack apart and saw this. its a washer with rubber on one side to help cushion the steering rack lock nut against the steering rack when on full lock (see pic) after a bit of investigation it looks to be ok (just floating on the shaft there). my question is could i remove this (as well as adding the spacer) to get more lock without compromising the amount of thread to be screwed into the steering rack . it seems the s13's dont have this half rubber washer at all (see video) and doesn't look like the steering rack is overly delicate. my last concern is if i was to do all this would i then have trouble with steering bind... all up it would be about a 10mm increase in the steering movment (lock spacers are just 6mm) 4.41 into video let me know what you guys think cheers.

you have a pm

yer it does and its pretty much farked, goes off and on at the most random times - ive unhooked the alarm speaker though so it only flashes the lights. so to take it out do i pretty much just find it (under the dash somewhere im assuming) and rip it all out?

for the past year ive been having electrical problems. I have now replaced the alternator and battery with brand new items on my r32 gtst. alternator charges the battery great, when the batterys charged it has plenty of kick. But if the car sits for a day or more the charge has dropped considerably. after 3 days or more the battery will be dead flat! cannot find any loose or worn out wires where charge may be escaping - what is going on! ps. my brand new battery is now 100% (wont charge at all from a battery charger) - im assuming this is from it being left dead flat a couple of times...

alot of effort for an extra 44cc or whatever it is and a slighty better flowing head

master cylinder o rings/rubbers probs worn out and are slowly letting oil past depressurising the clutch. when you pump the clutch pdeal does it disengage a bit better? new master cylinder is only $50 or so

$100 its the coilpacks.

to all those recommending putting a hi flo on - he wants to run stock boost so putting a hi flow on will only increase lag with no benifits of extra power. and +1 for it being normal for a bit of oil to be in the intake...

did u actually read his post at all? #1 its a 33 hi flow #2 his still running a stock computer - getting a nisstune soon and yer mate from what ive read hi flow 33 turbos are pretty average on rb25's let alone an rb20... keeping in mind that 1 hiflowed 33 turbo may not be the same as the next

Hi yall. Had my 32 gtst sitting for a while with a worn out alternator, went to start it the other day with a good battery and nothing happens when i turn the key. no fuel pump prime, no dash lights, no sounds. headlights work when you turn them on not that that means anything really Any ideas why this would be happening, cars been sitting for about 2 months....

thats fine

o ok thanks for that. Im pretty sure ive fiqured out my problem though. Im thinking my thermostat is broken in the open position. There for depending on the type of driving im doing the temp of the water around the engine/where the temp sensor is, goes up and down instead of staying constant. This in turn is making my ecu think that the cars still cold sometimes even when ive been driving for a while, thus putting the ecu into the 'warm up map/mode' and pulling the timing 7degrees, making the car drive sluggish. Sound resonable? Today ill take my thermostat out and test it with the hot water on the stove trick.

level is full, condition is pretty horrid, most water would be my guess. sorry mate not even sure what you mean by 'consult' :S

took the car for a drive tonight. noticed the temp guage went up to where it normal goes (did take about 10mins to get there - way longer then it should be) and down then stayed only about 1/3 way up and wouldnt get up to the normal place where it sits. also when it was down the car was boggy and when it was up (briefly) the car ran alot better. obviously after 20mins driving my car had warmed up. my question is does the temp sender also tell the thermostat to open up. or is it my thermostat is not working correctly therefor the sensor telling the ecu if the cars at operation temp yet is getting tricked.

cheap redline oil on ebay last time i checked. $95 delivered ?

Hey guys sorry about this, just making sure im following correctly. So its due to my ecu taking timing out when in warm up mode below 3000rpm. But because my car does this sometimes even when hot then this would suggest a temp sensor is possibly damaged telling the ecu the cars cold when really its warmed up, at random times at that?

exactly my thought guess ill start troublshooting, starting with the temp sensor, makes it hard when its perfect one day and playing up the next.

hey guys, the problem went away for a few drives now its back, not as bad as before but its still there. cleaned the afm with contact cleaner so pretty sure thats fine. My question now is (assuming it is the ecu), if i take my car to get a tune up (nisstune ecu) will this hopfully rectify the problem. Do tuners usually have spare temp sensors etc on hand if it is damaged, or should i be looking at coming with an arsonal of spares.

gtscott - thats the exact thing thats happening with my rb!!! and just like yours it isnt happening all the time - just sometimes, took it for a drive this morning and didnt have the problem? as for timing - if this was the problem surly it would mean its happening all the time not just sometimes? hence why i think its electrical dvs jez - sounds exactly like whats happening, computer is a nisstune, however the problem will be there even once the car is hot sometimes... im going to clean the afm, check all the connections are good - my prusumption at this stage is a faulty wire thats sometimes shorting out/disconnected hence the random times it lags the way it does

Cooler pipes are sweet. Can also see it making boost on the guage.

Clutch is fine. Thanks for your input though. Even when in neutral and the accelerator applied ever so gently the revs don't rise and u can hear the turbo start to spool a small amount.