cosmic starz

I THINK YOU HAVE LEFT EVERYONE WITH THE QUESTIONS OF WHAT IS INVOLVED - BRIEF OUTLINE WOULD BE HELPFUL - AND COST?

________________________________________________________________________________ ___________________ SELF-HELP IS WONDERFUL AIN'T IT

gee you sure got lots of guessswork replies - you need to start methodically - first you check for engine fault codes - takes about 1 minute and you only need some wire to do this - if you don't know how, search the site (its been covered maybe a million times) and why would someone tell you to replace the coils or even check them unless you get a definitely got a Code 21 ?????????? bizarre! see what fault Code you get if any- you may not get one come up at all, but even that points you closer to the real problem and figuring out what needs doing if no code comes up it maybe something as simple as water in the fuel, blocked fuel line or filter, or dying fuel pump, among about 15-20 possibilities

________________________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ Unless you have Code 21 do not waste any time thinking about the coils - they must be OK - maybe you need to replace the fuel pump or fuel filter is clogged - look at the R34 Engine Service manual for clues to fix your specific symptoms - they are all listed there.

________________________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ its unclear what you expect to achieve ( e.g. are you trying to install a CD MP3 hu in the boot to feed audio directly into the sender box in the boot and onto the Xanavi hu in the dash and if so why? - you do know that the Xanavi hu audio (as produced by the cd player for instance) is actually sent on via the std cassette radio unit thru to the speakers and not directly to them? have a look at the back of the Xanavi hu and all will be revealed by the mass of connectors!!!!!!!!!) so, you need to be clearer as to what is your real objective (and hence we will know what is your real question?) and as for the translation of the function buttons on the Xanavi hu this is on a post on this SAU site - use the search facility - the exercise will be rewarding as it may turn up extra info pm me if stuck after fully trying the search function

lol some more lol, and even more lol - no, its actually a purpose made genuine Nismo product fitted in production ( not cobbled up as you try to insinuate) and came all the rest of the genuine Nismo body kit and other genuine Nismo items fitted in production - but hey, you can keep telling yourself whatever you want - its cool by me - he he he !

presuming the Xanavi harness can double up for anything else is just - how can I say it politely - optimistic - now thats being really polite! so my best advice is that in this time of economic downturn why not do the Kevin Rudd thing and spend some money - on a sparkie - and get the job done right the triple gauge set up is not the only way to go and if you want different read-outs apart from what is already on the main cluster why not fuel pressure and vacuum gauges for example - not just repeats of oil pressure etc - in my R34 S1 manual Coupe I have Blitz gauges on the A pillar as well as the pop-up Xanavi unit still in its original place ........................

stop badmouthin' Nismo spoilers!!!!!!!!!!!!! you just got to get the right one in any case is that hideous thing in the previous posts really Nismo??????????? if the bl...dy uploads are working (which half the time they are not) then here's a pic of a genuine Nismo spoiler for R34 and its adjustable too-

SEEMS PERFECTLY SUITABLE .............................WAT U MEAN UGLY? WHO DOESN'T LIKE A BONNET WID HOT CHICKS THROWING FIREBALLS AT UR CAR (sorry for grammar lapse just gettin in the mood)

firstly, if you ask for assistance why not provide sufficient info to enable an informed reply? so you did get a proper address to meet in Sydney (in lieu of a McDonalds or say George St City at appointed hour): and/or you also got a copy sent to you of his driving licence and/or the rego papers which each show a proper address ? if no why not? basically forget about the car even if it does exist - you would not want it now unless you are certifiable - and promptly sms text response to him accepting the refund offer and specifying the $relevant amount - adding where paymant should be mailed - do not give your bank details (esp if he has all your other details) - wait 5 working days and if no meoney arrives repeat sms text/email and say if money not repaid will be treating matter as fraud and action via Police do not delete messages from mobile fone - may serve as future evidence

...............and who would give a ratsarse what those tossers think???????????????????????

post up your info and pics - I'm into PC mods etc and always have about 6 including laptops lying around and bring worked on , lots of other members will also probably be interested in getting a carPC up and running on a modest budget

SEEMS YOU GOT A CHALLENGING PROBLEM - ONLY CODE 21 TYPE THINGS LEFT SEEM TO BE TO CHECK THE WIRING LOOM TO COILS AND AS YOU DID NOT MENTION THE FOLLOWING : WHEN YOU PUT SPLITFIRES IN DID YOU PULL THE SPARK PLUGS TO SEE WHICH ONE(S) WAS(WERE) FOULED BY THE MISFIRE?- MOST TIMES YOU CAN SPOT THE TROUBLE SOURCE BY DIFFERENCES IN CONDITION OF SPARK PLUGS VIZ. ANY COATED WITH UNBURNT FUEL /EXCESSIVELY CARBONED UP

Code 21 may indicate random break-down in coils so the test you did was not conclusive that your coils are Ok (and you say you never checked #4 either). The Nissan factory has gone to all the trouble to publish an Engine Service Manual that tells you all the symptoms that cause code 21 how to test for them and how to fix - have a look at the Engine Service Manual which you can download free . Taping/coating the coils is crap btw! Does not work if its internal breakdown.

The link that the other member has given you is to a Russian perons HOW TO DO IT and its execellent info - its really not that hard a job - I USED THE INFO and have installed Splitfires in an NA R34 - however I found that the HOW TO info is PARTIALLY INCOMPLETE in some parts - but luckily only in relation to the various vacum lines /connectors that you need to disconnect to remove the inlet manifold etc.in the area of the rear of the motor esp the r.h.s (presuming you are facing the motor at its front). Start off using his info and when you near the end of undoing things and almost ready to remove the manifold etc you will see that there are some extra rubber vacuuum lines/connectors around the far rear RHS of motor that he has not mentioned - use common-sense and just undo them as needed leaving the hardware in place where possible - nearly all hoses/vacuum lines etc are a different diameter or have a differet clamp type so you should be able to avoid mixing them up on re-installation. What I did and suggest is you mark everything you disconnent with tape or take a digital pic and/or record on paper each step and thing you do and later retrace. Its not a hard job and first time mat take about an hour to undo and same to replace. Try not to damage any hoses etc as I don't know if yoiu can easily get replacement ones - and many hose and vacuum line clips are the pressure type and you may want to substitute screw type ones instead. Also his MOTOR HAD NO STRUT BRACE in place when he did his coils but I found you can remove the manifold etc leaving the strut brace in place - seems untrue but try it by swinging the parts around carefully you can do it . In fact my strut brace bolts were so tight I could not undo some so had to leave it in place. Also drain the hoses with collant in them well so you dont get water into the spark plug area and try not to lose any bolts clips etc in engine bay as its nearly impossible to find and retrieve anything, and the head is alloy so do not overtighten and strip threads when pulling or replacing plugs - DO PLUGS AT SAME TIME AS NEW CILS UNLESS THEY ARE NEAR NEW - you do not want to repeat the work. Finally, you will have sore back muscles for several days!!!!!!!!!!!!!! But will still feel good. I REPEAT ITS NOT A HARD JOB AND YOU DO NOT NEED SPECIAL TOOLS. t

Mines just about basic but does have a genuine Nismo adjustable rear spoiler with Nismo carbon fibre decal - have close look - and genuine Nismo fuel cap (under the fuel opener flap) and genuine Nismo oil filler cap (in engine ) plus the Nismo decals on side windows also has RSPEC turbo timer (and yes I have disco'ed it - found the run-on a bit of an unnecessary nuisance on very short trips when wanting to shut engine off) plus the plush Slyline monogrammed carpets and pop-up TV SAT NAV CD etc - amost forgot also has 2 Blitz pod gauges on drivers pillar - all of this done in Japan by first owner - yes yes yes it is 5spd manual and 60k still with all original Nissan factory fitted engine hoses etc still in exc condition but may replace and keep as spares as summer is now getting v hot. Put new Splitfires in. No other expense and 9.7 l/100km no problem.

<br /><br /><br />Advt seems dodgy - says it silver car but black car in foto - also says "good repair" wtf is that supposed to mean ? is it good condition or wreck that has been fixed OK, and its quoted US$ - factor in all costs and risk and may be better/safer to buy something you can see and drive here in Australia imo -

yeah and I'm talking about R34 coupes 5 spd manual too - there are heaps of excellent ones in Sydney so if your not getting responses well you figure it out.........good ones won't come cheap

<br /><br /><br />its a real nuisance about o.e.m R34 coils but there is no option except pull your coils out and find the duds - my experience was Code 21 randomly appearing first with absolutely no noticeable effect but within less than a 1000k big trouble - it was suddenly so bad it was virtually undriveable luckily I was only about 3 k from home so ran it back anyway on about 4 cylinders as it was early Sunday and no traffic about - not a nice experience - hardly made it back - put in new coils and instant new car feeling!

theres heaps of top GTs around Sydney - plenty with desirable mods - they obviously just are't interested in ridiculous low offers ( which is what is mostly made)

sorting this out is just so simple if you put a teenie bit of effort in - you absolutely don't need Nissan dealer or anyone you can get the error code in about 2 mins all you need is a piece of wire - I am not going to explain everything as the topic has been covered many times on here (SAU) - what I will recommend is YOU download the R34 Engine Manual - FREE ON NUMEROUS WEBSITES - just google it - then spend all of about 5 mins reading it - it tells you everything you need to know and do you will probably then work out you have a Code 21 and take all of our words for it that means new coils (Splitfires best) - we all have been thru what you are now experiencing - FIRST just the checklite restart and all appears OK but soon enough if you do nothing one day the car will begin very serious misfiring maybe even to point of not driveable - not good if you are 100s k s from home believe me you don't need Nisssan dealer or mechanic to fix the problem - so save big money avoiding labour service charges and get to it Cheers

RE THE XANAVI SAT NAV CD TV UNIT - CAVEAT EMPTOR As you are asking a fairly high price its important that people know the pros and cons of the Xanavi set-up. I had the same unit factory installed in my R34 - potential buyers should be fully aware that there are several major issues with trying to get Xanavi cd/tv sat nav in R34s to work properly or at all - Xanavi has its own proprietary sat nav system/software and there is no software or cd map disk available for Australia so despite all optimisim the sat nav will never be capable of working in Australia, re the TV this is NTSC so you will need a PAL to NTSC converter to get it anywhere near working. Another very real problem is that apart from the 2 fascia inputs the Xanavi unit does not have any standard wiring connectors (such as RCA/ AV /S VIDEO etc) - it has its own special connectors - and lots of them - so to fit it in a car you need to already have a R34 with all of the right wiring loom -so it must be a R34 that already has the Xanavi set-up (and there are several varaiant models of the Xanavi) , or you should have access to or be an auto electric expert and be able to make a substitute wiring loom - so the bottom line for buyers is be informed do proper research and make sure you get the whole wiring loom if buying - even though some of it would be near impossible to take out of the right car as some of its is integral with the standard wiring loom. To summarise I have found that these units are like the standard R34 coils, when they start to malfunction they will sooon be completely dead so better to just get rid of them. Cheers

show us some pics of your fabulous find lol