sneakey pete

Saw a greddy for sale on FB today for 580. Or could grab that Nismo one...

Bear in mind the "squeezing to make it faster" Mostly takes place in the exhaust housing itself.

I disagree, sort of. I think it's already happened, case in point, the comments here seem to all agree that there's still lots of really pristine ones, that are garaged away and not dailyed. This points to the idea that people already have gone and bought that dream car, that they can afford as a second car that's tucked away. The recent boom certainly would have helped with that also. Sure people will still want more and prices may slightly increase but I don't think we'll get the 70's muscle car thing happening.

That's all well and good if you only care about peak power. However you have to wonder what effect the the size of the dumps will have on midrange power and transient response etc. Personally i'm of the opinion of bigger is better and would try get a cheap set of Tomei or HPI's

Designed to have a large amount of heat going through one end of it doesn't mean it's designed to have that amount of heat radiating next to the other end of it. The fact they offer water-cooled ones to me makes me think there's an issue with to much heat running through them. Guess I'm overthinking it. I should go read up some max heat specs on some gates

Just seems like it would be getting a lot of heat next to something that isn't designed to take it

Top one not being equal length is bad. Middle one wouldn't fit an efr 8374 on I'd hazard a guess. Bottom one... Gate actuator of front one sits next to gate of rear one... Recipie for disaster... The answer is.. I don't know. I would recommend jfab engineering in Brisbane for manifolds as he did a great job with mine, though it was iwg.

How would a stopper under the pedal limit revs? Anyway, if it goes over 9000 that gives you another 1000rpm before you hit the limiter, just don't limiter bash it.

If anything just adding foam to the top of the radiator support, if it isn't sealing, will be exactly as effective and much cheaper than one of those cooling panels. Also the SRI ones dont fit over the AC lines.

50mm is probably 30% thicker than a stock core. 50mm is a thick radiator. Generic ebay 50mm core In mine doesn't get hot, or didn't. End of the day its a trade off, Thicker is better and holds more fluid, more space for air to pass through, but weighs more takes up more space. Twin pass means you have generally more usable area used which is a plus, eg i'd expect that HPI actual twin pass radiator (nice find!) to cool more effectivly than my 50mm normal one... but as i said, would it matter for my usage? no... If you can afford to drop 750 bucks on a radiator I think you'd go well with the HPI twin pass one, but that's a gut feeling only.

these 2/3 core radiators aren't actually twin or triple pass are they? Best bet would be to talk to a local radiator shop about making a custom twin pass radiator wouldn't it? Presumably that would mean sideways end tanks but shouldn't be to hard to make work in a skylien

Well, looking at the pictured manifold of Umair, that's not really divided at all....

I'd say you'd want to have a tight seal agains tthe face of the gate for the inter pipe divider if you did go single... I think there's another layer of confusion here as any potential difference might show up on the street but not on a dyno?

I belive you quoted the wrong post and were replying to umair, but that's assuming that it is divided right to the gate?

Oh yes, and that. Do something to the sump aswell to help oiling.

Paint it, remove power steering hicas lines, tidy loom, install single?

Anyone seen any results yet?

Why do you think displacement will make any difference? Compressor can only flow what it can flow. Doesn't matter if you have a 1L or 6L engine

I tried to get my 8374 low mounted. 7670 is smaller, but only a little. Low mount isn't happening unless you find a solution for a gt35 low mount. 7670 ewg would Max out at your power goals. Should be a highly responsive turbo for the power.

Whoever is telling you you need twin walbros or 040's for 98 is probably being a bit silly here, or thinking you'll end up going E85 down the track. Single walbro 460 mounted PROPERLY in the tank will do the job fine. Unless you want to do a trackday with only 15L of fuel left in there. Otherwise you're buying not just a surge tank, but lines and fittings front to back that you don't need.

Factory manifold washers/nuts wouldn't fit on due to the weld material sticking out, so I ordered some locking nuts from the local hardware store. When I got back after a final check and throwing the manifold onto the scales (17kg!) I bolted it in and tightened down the egts. I also topped up the power steering fluid. Not a terribly hard task at all as there's just enough line to swing it out to the side. Unfortunately the fittings in the rack and pump seem to leak so need to take them out and replace with some thread sealant. Its also a bloody loud pump so need to look into that. Turbo and dump pipe went on, fuel filter bracket was made up, clutch slave bolted in, transfer case and diff oil added, all of which i have no pictures of. I got the fuel rail spaces machined down and put the rail/injectors on. The more suitable length spacers Also tidied up the oil cooler lines and mounted them to the subframe out of the way of everything. Put the cooler pipes, radiator fan etc all back on. Bay is pretty much done now, needs a little bit of wiring touched up and some fluids put in. Also needs a catch can setup... Have come across... some issues. Wastegate actuator seems to want to bind a little, so presumably the arm is at too much of an angle, will need to have a dogleg bent into it I presume. More seriously the front right wheel bearing is completely f**ked. So yeah... not sure what's happened there. Will need to get that replaced over Christmas. Not sure if i'll hit the dyno before then, which will be disappointing if I don't.

Tis a good article, brings out a lot of info about what they were doing back then. Had a dinner/talk I attended with them a few years back, some of the stuff was off tap. dynoing by cylinder pressure, one of the first teams to travel together with uniforms etc. very professional approach to it all.

Yeah, I imagine there must be limits with PWM. My main concern was about both running for highway cruise tbh, i'm not too worried about micromanageing it too much as there is no surge, so the entire tank will absorb heat input pretty decently at the track. The pumps themselves have a check valve in them, as i understand it. If they don't i'm in for issues Thanks! A lot of what i've put into these works has been what i've picked up and thought over and over through all my years on these forums and others.... but not sure where the older guy thing has come from? the picture before of the grinding is my Dad, not me, as he has much steadier hands for that kind of thing...

Don't worry, nothing will happen for 2 weeks until I'm home again! But it really doesn't need to slow down has been over a year now. It's good to do these, helps remind me of progress which is nice. Glad to see people enjoy reading them as well.

At some point the boot release lever lockout had been activated. There's a tab that can be slid up and down that locks out the cable from releasing the boot lock. Unfortunately, the key has never worked in the boot lock key barrel... Cue removing the boot access panel, the amp that's bolted to it, the strut bar and the stuff in the boot. And the boot lock mechanism as I hadn't discovered the lockout at that point. Wasn't too fun on a hot summers day. Meanwhile, I kept working on the Oil and water lines for the turbo. Bit of a tight squeze under the manifold for the water and oil to run up between cylinder 1 and 2. Had to get a banjo fitting for the oil feed out of the block and then it only cleared by a couple of mm. For those playing at home, i've run -4 oil lines and -6 water lines. I modified the factory water outlet casting with a M12x1.25 to -6 fitting, came out a treat I think As the lines will be in the company of some rather hot bits of metal, I dug out some heat sleeve from the old tomei turbo kit and chucked it over the water and oil feed lines. The oil drain took a few goes. Had some spare 100 series hose around so I decided to use that. At first I thought 30 and 30 fittings would do it. Then 30 and straight. Ended up using 45 and a 90... Its also a bit difficult to get in so it sort of lives in there for now. In addition to the heatsleeve over the oil drain, i wrapped runner number 2 in some exhaust wrap, as the oil and water feed as well as the water drain will be resting on it. This way between the hose and the manifold I at least have a heat sleeve and some exhaust wrap and ceramic coating. Hopefully that should be enough, for a few hot laps at least. Finally I needed to change the banjo's on the turbo to metric adaptors for hose routing reasons. Lots of fun and games, luckily MSA had no problem with me exchanging fittings a few times! Finally I made a return hose to the radiator return with some black nylon coated braided hose. Aswell as that my dad had a go at modifying the factory water return hose bracket so it retained its functionality holding the Cas wiring loom. All in all it came up a treat, with another clamp to hold the hose to the timing cover i'll be happy where it sits and really happy with how it looks. Well, once I trim some of the excess length from the oil feed heat sleeve... Here's some pictures of everything mocked up before I went back to site. I've done all the hoses for the wastegate and BoV also. lines going everywhere! Need to order some exhaust nuts as the factory design is to big of a diameter now, so I'll get the final bolt up when I get back.