sneakey pete

I needed to clearance the head slightly for ease of manifold install. I got a steady pair of hands, in the form of my dad, to man the angle grinder. Main issue was the EGT probe hitting the tab at the front of the engine. It was a very constrained area, not much space between it and the EWG actuator. The next step was mounting up the EGTs. The wiring guy I got to wire in the new ECU put them onto a plug (keeping equal lengths for the wires apart from this to avoid some of the issues possible), however the bung on cylinder 6 needed some work. I got a 1/8th NPT tap from MSA (after trying 3 other hardware stores....) and managed to tap it out a little bit to get an acceptable depth. Tapping welded on stainless steel bungs isn't fun, I must say. EGT's mocked up. Cylinder 5 vs Cylinder 6 A side by side comparison showing how deep after a go with the tap. I think I took it another half turn after this also. While I was at MSA I picked up a Pod. I think i'll need to get the passenger side inter cooler pipes modified as there really isn't any room to fit a pod off to the side, nor have any sort of pipe I can route the catch can vent into for legalities... but that can wait until the car is driving, don't feel like trailering all that way, so for now its Fully hecktic pod on turbo spec. Note that i've started to mess around getting the coolant lines in place aswell Finally, I've got some wiring related pictures. To control the engine I decided to change from a haltech platinum Pro to a Link G4+. The link can interface with the DIYautotune 8 channel EGT amplifier via Canbus, which means the total cost for a ECU running EGT's is a fair chunk lower than the haltech. Additionally they also sell a Can based wideband O2 that's a bosch 4.9 sensor instead of the 4.2 of the haltech, plus its a much smaller control unit. The software of the link seems to have a few more tricks up its sleeve over the haltech, such as fuel pressure scaling of injector duty cycles, plus all of the usal protection for oil pressure etc. Apparently it has better logging but i've not had an opportunity to play with that yet. First up I have an interesting air temp sensor that was supplied by JP tuning. Its an long length open tip sensor, with the same thread pattern as the factory unit, so it actually sticks into the flow of the plenum and will of course respond at a decently quick rate which is important for a MAP based tune. Needs anew plug but it doesn't look out of place at all. As well as this, the crank trigger was wired up into the Cas wires. I had a new gasket for the Cas but i've lost my old one with the spacers in it. Turns out a mate had ordered 10 of them for some reason, so I was able to grab those and put the timing belt cover back on to get an idea of clearance/brackets etc. Makes a big difference to the look of the engine bay! I may yet take the sensor out and put some kind of black wrap over it... The battery has also been relocated to the boot to make room for an eventual catch can, including big f**k off fuse. This also allows me to keep a decent sized battery in there, which I would like to do as the car may have to sit for a few weeks at a time without access to keep it permanently on charge. Power terminal located next to the fuse box, includes a takeoff for the power steering pump. Fuel system was also wired in with a pair of relays to run as a staged setup, at this stage. Don't think it will be worth the effort to do any PWM type arrangements. Finally, the honeywell 150PSI sensors were permanently mounted into place and wired up, along with the flex sensor and boost controller. The turbo speed sensor is still waiting for Pins, as for some reason that particular plug didn't come with them included. Must be an American thing (also note, the speed sensor has some kind of logic board in the plug, so you can't simply hack it off and put your own 3 pin plug on there). Fuel pressure sensor fits in quite nicely.

Thanks guys. Need to update the progress, probably an update or 2 from the last week at home working on it. Anyway, Have some ceramic coated manifold pictures.

Wires wise i'll leave that for someone else to explain. But I don't think you can use the stock ones. piping wise, this picture explains what's going on. What I had done with mine was block off both of the lines that had gone to the boost controller, and left wires hanging, and installed the boost controller in the 8mm line out of the plenum, up to the firewall where the valve was, then back down onto the green line that runs under the plenum in this image. http://sites.google.com/site/tyndago/RB26VacuumDiagram.rev3.JPG

edit: double post, poor internets to blame

No issues with the rest of your post, its quite helpful, but i'll pull you up here. No. If you have twins run a 3 port and tee the feed to the actuators after the MAC valve. 4 ports are a similar, but different actuator. A 3 port basically switches between "feeding" the actuator either boost, or atmosphere (through the vent). A 4 port instead feeds one output boost and the other atmosphere, and when triggered, it switches the two around. A 4 port is something you need when you have a twin port waste gate actuator (and even then you can hook up a 3 port to those types of actuators, a 4 port just makes the more effective at holding heaps more boost than their spring pressure).

Would love one, but 250K is Lol

Next step was plumbing the crap out of everything. Given I have the dual walbros in the back and a max power of this turbo being 500awkw on E85, the stock lines are probably to small, so I needed new fuel lines. The power steering also needed new lines, and the turbo needed water and oil lines. I also wasn't too keen on paying pornstar money for speedflow given I needed something like 12 fittings for the fuel system alone so went up to Motorsport Accessories to grab all my stuff with their own brand. Quality of it seems decent, no tiny internal diameter of fittings etc that some other cheaper ones suffer from, proof will be in the usage though. Staff there are also extremely helpful. Anyway, first I did up the power steering lines. This was pretty simple, 3x bump fittings to suit the 2 on the rack and the power steering pump. (can't remember exact sizes but can check if anyone needs. The bigger one on the rack and the astra pump are the same size, and one 2mm smaller for the smaller rack connection). A -6 90 degree 200 series hose fitting and a 90 degree to rubber hose adapter allowed the hoses to go up and run along the chassis rail and its all sweet, a nice short 1m of line back to the rack, tucking through next to the cooler pipe. I also grabbed a bulkhead tee for my oil cooler drain, and a fitting to mount up the factory oil pressure sensor for the cluster gauge. I also get the occasional visitor while working away on the car. I guess they keep the insects out of it. Moving onto the fuel system, I got some Delphi 1400cc injectors. It may be a bit borderline as to these being big enough but we'll just have to see what happens. I will have the fuel flow to bump the pressure to 4bar, which would make them 1650cc effective, so fingers crossed that will work. After that it was just a matter of picking a location for the rest of the objects in the fuel system and making up the lines. I've got a turbosmart FPR1200 that i've mounted on the strut tower, the flex sensor is mounted on the old bracket for the Hicas lines at the bottom of the firewall, and ive got a speedflow 10 micron fuel filter which is mounted up where the old rear Hicas solenoid used to bolt in. I've decided to run the rail in single feed, from the rear. Don't see the point in twin feed. If people can make 400kw with a stock rail feeding from one end with tiny stock lines, i'm sure i can make 500kw using a bigger rail and bigger lines... The lines are again 200 series -6, i've used nylon braid lined stuff for the front line back to the FPR and the rest is the normal stainless. I had reservations about using braided lines under the car, however I was unable to find a set of Hicas lines to use (threw mine away when I removed them) and didn't really like the prospect of making tube up, as bending it etc to fit under the car on jack stands wouldn't really be fun. In the end, it tucked up into the hicas clips really, really well, and between the brackets holding it in and a few strategic zip ties i'm not confident it won't hanging down. Fuel tank went back in, I really do love the fact that i've got twin walrbos and there's no way to tell. Lines all tucked up Engine bay fuel lines. Note the pressure sensors taped into position as a mockup. Will be getting some adapters to fit them in Getting a bit crowded under the plenum again though.

I also drilled out the turbo speed sensor and installed that while the car was at the fab shop. The Borg Warner EFR's have a speed sensor boss cast into them that has had machining done on it to make sure its in the perfect spot to be perpendicular to the spinning blades of the turbo. They then sell a sensor that fits into this hole, all you need to do is drill out the remaining length to bring it all the way through the housing. Drilling Said hole was one of the more nerve wracking things i've done, but I got it in. After that It was time to get the car home to make room for an actual boat in the shop. Thankfully I was able to borrow a trailer and tow car from friends... Unluckily i managed to lose the number plate... Anyway, here's some pictures of how the turbo sits in the engine bay

Old mount of mine was broken there but hadn't moved off of it. Were these brand neweys or older ones? Also my mate was asking if there was a video of the launch

Cheers guys, still have a few more updates left in me yet too. I put basic specs in a post on page one, but this is the clifnotes Spool 2.8L stroker, 9.5:1 compression ratio. all the trimings for studs and gaskets unigroup 260 cams full head reco tomei oil pump Hi octane sump Hi octane crank trigger Quaife front diff nismo coppermix competition twin plate Anyway, the car was taken to the fabricator for some manifold action, we decided to attempt something a bit special, the reason for the power steering pump delete, spurred on by hypertune recently doing something similar... Low mount! Unfortuantly after a few weeks of trying he couldn't make it workable. Maybe with a 7670 it would fit... Or perhaps the airconditioner removed and the turbo being able to be lowered more. Either way, still something i'd like to see done one day. But, after a while trying we moved onto a more conventional top mount. In the mean time I grabbed a few more parts. Sard style fuel rail and a new clutch slave as the old one had popped out. The manifold flange arrived from the states. I'm not 100% sure where the fabricator got it from but they do a CNC ported flange that transitions from the port shape to the round shape, with a cut out area from the pipe itself to sit into. Was surprisingly cheap too. I think they may also have a stainless steel option for those inclined to go that way. And of course a twin scroll flange, need to make the most of the Borg Warner. In the mean time I had some days off work and set about using the tools in the shop to get the oil system mounted up and lines made with the help of some friends. The lack of BoV pipes allowed me to get the cooler a bit closer in to the car, so hopefully more into the flow of air. A duct and mesh vent behind it will be constructed to make sure its getting some actual air flow. Fingers crossed on the track this means the temps will stay stable. Also not pictured for some reason is the drain i've put into the line out of the bottom of the oil cooler. Should allow me to get most of the oil and crap out of the system when doing changes And yes, the filter does fit off between the plenum and the thread. Just. No, I didn't check beforehand... These lines will be tied up with rubber mounts at a later stage Fabricator also made up the bracket for the Power steering pump. I reckon its great! keeps the factory (astra) 3 rubber mounts, bolts up to the stock BoV holding locations and the chassis rail so its got 3 points of contact, wedged in nice and tight, and stock cooler pipes slot in nice. He's since made his own similar one for an astra pump on his. Finally, the manifold. We of course went to a conventional top mount setup, 1 5/8 sch40 pipe, turbo sitting forward of cly 2 because of the size of the housings, pretty traditional stuff in that respect. Looking at other twin scroll manifolds out there we noticed something very surprising. Most of them are not actually equal length! This was a particular issue on runners 1 vs 2 on most. The more we looked at it we understood that it probably wasn't possible to do with the space available on a normal RB. However... there wasn't a power steering pump on this one so the fabricator decided he would be able to spread runner 2 out over the AC leaving more room for it to be full length. The downside was that this meant that there would be unequal bedn radius across each runner. However, we decided that getting the length equal was probably more important. The end result was a manifold with runners 320mm +/- 3mm across all 6. I'm very, very interested to see how this goes. Weld out And the finished product. Also threw some npt bungs in there for EGT's in there because why not... (yay scope creep!)

Unigroup in NSW makes a 260x11 cam which i have in my car... haven't turned it on yet so can't really say much at this stage however. Getting smaller than 260 with high duration is hard form camtech/kelfords etc though there's always Mines super pro cam's but that's a 3000 buck exercise

A friend who has his own fabrication side business offered to do me up a custom manifold with so it was full steam ahead to get the engine in so i could get the car off to him for fit-up. Sump back on after fixing the oil pickup: Car getting ready to accept something.. Crank trigger sensor mounted correctly and gap set to 1.5mm Nismo Coppermix competition twin plate went on Gearbox mate up. Dam things are bloody loooong. And time to get it in the car... After this photo things went down hill. The balancer on the engine crane was great for getting the engine in and out, made it a breeeze. However, because of the front diff, the engine itself sat on a tilt to one side, and we had to take it in and out twice to adjust the chains and in the end needed to use a jack under the engine mount to lever it into place.. wasn't fun. However, end results!: Next day it was taken off to the fabricators shop.

Possibly visible in the other update, but i've also removed all of the power steering lines. The R32 has a 2 rotor power steering pump, one for the rack itself and the second for the Hicas rack on the rear, which goes there via a solenoid in the front of the drivers side engine bay and then hard lines under the car to a second one at the back and returns to the resiviour via a cooler. These are all well gone, however the cooler and crossover pipes remained. As I had some ideas for turbo mounting, and after seeing a 32 running one at a local car show, I decided to buy an astra power steering pump that my mate had got for his legnum, but hadn't found a place to actually mount it. And with the BOV's gone, i had the perfect spot. (except for access to top up the fluid :P). To get the lines in, i notched the bov vacuum and bolt holes next to the cooler pipe hole to accommodate the new hoses. As you can see there was quite a bit of a mess of stuff in the factory power steering lines, and there's no resiviour or pump in that picture either I also resealed the throttles as they had been cleaned by the painter

Firstly, Apologies for the image quality jumping around, have been using different cameras and phones. Secondly, Stuff has been happening but i've got about 5-6 updates worth of stuff to catch up to the present day, i'll write those over today/coming days. Anyway, got to installing the Crank trigger and noticed the notch in the oil pump hadn't be lined up correctly.. fail. Also there was no balancer bolt supplied by the engine shop. Miss communication there i guess, but was worrying they stuck the balancer on and didn't even mention it to me. Yanked the balancer off and gave it a bit of a file for clearance. Got an ARP balancer bolt to hold it back on. I also took the time to change out the streeting column bush while the engine was out. Wouldn't want to be doing it with the engine in at all. Old bushing was shot. Replaced it with a solid aluminum unit. Before putting the engine in I decided to crack out the inspection camera and have a look into the engine... and had a bit of a shock. The oil pickup extension hadn't been installed correctly and the trapdoors were stuck on it: the sump had been installed upside down. Anyway, had to take sump off, ended up making a jig and redoing pickup in correct orientation. After that put the sump back up... from underneath, which was entertaining to say the least... Finally i fixed up the results of a poor repair on a battery explosion done by a previous owner... well sort of fixed it

Holy sheet.

MTA and GCG both stock them. I think someone on the last page said MTAs prices were't too bad?

you've also created a stress concentration (looking at the one at the back of your picture), plus mounted them further out than stock thus increasing the torque acting on it. Could be right but given the caliper is designed to minimize weight, therefor optimize for stress with a nice curve that reduces stress concentrations, i'd personally be very, very hesitant to do this mod.

until the caliper mount snaps off

Was not able to find it with a search but saw results you had on another car. Interesting. Did you ever swap it out and compare results after this?

I'll have mine running a stock plenum with per cylinder egt's in a few weeks hopefully, will be able to see how the stock one performs decently well then

Would caution against looking into "flow" numebrs of manifolds. Eg somewhere it's claimed that the 26 ones flow twice as much as a stock 26 one. That's nice but think about it unless you have 800kw are you going to have that much aie moving through your plenum? No. What is important is how it behaves, which may or may not have relationship with the maximum flow.

Exeddy with approximately 50% wear, very sight rattle when cold, gone before get to the first turn after reversing out of the driveway. I guess technically that means it does rattle, but realistically you don't notice it nor really take head, its not a reason on its own not to have one, of that brand at least. My mates nismo: none that i can remember, but i'll ask the owner as he'd know his car better.

I always say it depends on application, given a turbo size like that my gut feeling its a drag racing application, and a 9180 probably wouldn't really be suited. Also i don't think it'd be big enough anyway. There might be a non EFR borg warner of a good size that would be ok (SXE range?) but i don't know anything about em, and the precision might be just as good/better.

I take it you clearanced for the valves using... valves? What works works i suppose!

Also usage goal might be good to have?