sneakey pete

Don't get the rattle thing. Had an exeddy twin plate in my 32, and have driven my mates nismo twin ans neither rattle or a particularly noticeable once you get used to the bite point. Nismo going back in mine now.

I also went nuts and got Unigroup cams. Also changed turbo setup and a few other things. Car might actually be on a dyno in the next month too!

If no access to hoist box on, but you must have an engine leveller unless you have 3-4 friends to lift it up or down to avoid hitting things. Had a few issues with the engine leaning over but using 3 lifting points could solve that.

1 Equal length is more about the sound. It does sound sex. Can be changed later easily. Sounds like you've got the exhaust well covered. 2 No idea, see how it goes, when its on the dyno take the filter out to see, can always swap that and modify intake if required easily. 3 Tomei dyno charts will show whatever tomei wasn'ts them to show, not the truth. So yeah, don't get their manifolds. 4 ECU wise get a haltech or a link plugin, or if you are going to have a flex tune get the link. (Second hand haltechs are easy to come by... like mine that i'm still trying to get rid of) 5 Where is number 5????? 6 tough one. Intercoolers have a few distinct factors. Fin design means they will cool the air passing through better, but as they get hotter that matters less and less. The size of it increases the size of it as a heat-sink so this dictates how hot it gets. In other words for a low flow situation having a super efficient inter-cooler the same size won't make much of a difference as it will not get that hot. Now there's more to it than that, pressure drop and the like. Plazamaman is the only thing i'd go brand new unless you find a second hand ARC core, all the rest I wouldn't trust as they'd be the same price and probably an inferior design, however if you even need to upgrade the cooler is still debatable. there will be a difference but i'm not sure it'd be worth the 9xxbucks price. 7 Mate of mine has -7's on a rebuilt 9.2:1 rb26 and E85. made 365kw at 25psi. So yes there are still gains to be had at high boost if everything else is running right. Tis a nice setup

Soo, ended up with this. Off at the coaters right now...

Quite possible Not at all possible

I know Efi up on the gold coast have installed a fair few. I think piggaz is getting one too? Does seem more like a track focused ecu though, i did get a quote for one but something like a link g4+ offers a better blend of price/performance for my setup.

Had similar experiences when looking for cams with high lift, so just went to unigroup for 260:11

Haltech isn't the only company that makes ecus That being said sounds like you need mines cams.

Haltech so can wideband of any other type is out. If the Honeywell are the efi hardware ones in thinking of they are apparently good haven't used mine yet though

Will say despite being easy was nerve wracking drilling it. Had it setup on an offset bit, realize now I should have put that on my mates Drill press/mill would have made it easier. Once it's running all the logs to everyone's hearts content.

Noone would argue that mph is a meausre of power, but a lot of people would argue that mph is a measure of a good turbo...

+1 for racepace. Most awesome aswell as the only ones going into 4"

look at the video on the previous page. tuned stock turbos would be more fun

If you've got all the money in the world, mines 250/10mm lift cams. If you want a more reasonable option, a lot of people recommend the unigrounp 260/11mm lift cams

For some context, 98 and E85 dyno charts and some video

Having had those turbos: no

Now now be fair. they make 20psi by 6000rpm.

Interesting to see how that goes. Have heard of people having extreme EGT problems with high comp

Temps will be higher than water... for a perfectly working system. Water has better heat capacty so will cool slightly better, until it boils. the point of this stuff is for bikes/crappy old cars etc where the cooling system is poor and you don't want it to boil even if it gets hot. The racing coolant is the opposite, where you need maximum cooling (and also don't want to dump glycol on the track) and your cooling system is on point so its not going to get to a temp where it could boil. Basically, best coolant is normal coolant.

Not sure where you got it doesn't include an exhaust housing? Because it talks about the exhaust housing it comes with on there...

Add me to the list. I'd need a r31 to put it into but that's the easy part.

1400s should suffice for 500kw with a slight pressure boost perhaps. At least that's my plan. Also plazamaman 76mm and 3.5" for the 8374iwg. See how she goes

Lobster back for teh coolz probably

What size did he get?