sneakey pete

Jesus. Need more data in here, he has a point, there isn't much apart from just people saying "they feel awesome"

Slight deviation, but apparently he's experimenting with a V3 controller, does anyone have any info/goss on what's new about it?

Looks like its ceramic coated already. From the pictures that Harris racing has posted i'm pretty sure it would fit, though stock damper would be bloody close and probably melt

If you want braps get a Perry port 13b. Smallish cams for maximum boost and therefor more dose is where it's at

If that's the case that's good. I had been onto Kyle via email and did ask him if there were fitment issues re aircon at which point I didn't receive a reply, however by that stage i'd got onto my mate about doing it, and he was competitive on price and willing to have a got at the low mount, so I didn't bother following up more on the 6boost. I was going to far to say it wont fit, i've read too much into the fact I didn't get a reply when I specifically asked about that. Either way the car is in the fab shed with a set of flanges and elbows so we'll see what comes out

kudos motorsport has a full silicone hose kit for various models of skyline i think, if you don't want to to the genuine option or spend the time looking for part numbers (though i'd recommend it)

And the aircon used? Genuinely curious, out of interest, for the sake of anyone who may wonder themselves in the future. Can't see the factory aircon line where they should be running under the compressor housing though, I think, but i think i see aircon lines wrapped in foil up at the firewall?

I'm not sure it would clear 32 aircon as the unit is longer and the line for it heads straight back. Additionally this is pretty cost competitive and either way know it's a perfect fit. Good point on the clearance, anyone for a clue on a good amount to leave?

Few months. Aim is to get the manifold done while I'm out at site for the 3 weeks now, then need to sort all the wiring, fuel system, oil lines etc, just he minor finishing which will take a little bit of time, but I'll have a week off to try bust that out After that just need to sort out a tuna and book it in for first startup and run in ! Low mount is the aim. Not going to be easy but not going to be easy to do a top mount either. Using 1 5/8 inch tube as well which doesn't help

So, lets see if my fabricator can make this happen...

6 boost seem ok, note they seem to have two variety's, the normal symmetrical and the moved forward ones, not sure if they're equal length. Or if they clash with stuff, i'm pretty sure one as per piggaz would clash on R32 factory power steering and aircon which are both longer. Fullrace has similar issues though from photos look like 4-5-6 are slightly different lengths to eachother. Also have clash issues with 32's (can't remember if its PS or AC). RAW brokerage will sit too high up, or did, might be best asking if they've fixed that problem. Best bet is a custom one but it can take longer and cost more.

Z32s don't really fit on the stock air box either. The 6000rpm thing seems weird z the failures for the short nose fea n usually seem to be a result of limiter bashing giving shock loading

There might be some missed context here as he has posted more info on his build thread, he's seeing low 12s/11's voltage wise with the car, there's a more major issue going on that needs to be solved.

I was under the impression that all of japan and europe get 100RON aswell I'll say this: don't get too hung up on Japanese brands. A few of them make a few good things (tomei oil pump, nismo twin plate) but a lot of them make a lot of overpriced stuff that isn't that great. (injectors, turbos etc :P) Takes a bit of googling to figure it all out but it will pay off in money saved and a superior performance

I've also heard of a well respected tuner saying a similar thing, i find it very intriguing. Anyone i know who has modern 1000cc's, or my modern 850cc's, seemed to run perfect at idle.

I was relying to MRskids posts on the previous page, from the looks of his logs it was as described in my post.

I got Harrisracing to post a similar log a few pages back though it was a 3-4 change. Maybe he could just jump in the car and do a similar to really settle this debate for once and for all. My money would be on the EFR spankerating over what the -5's do. Otherwise sometime this decade i'll do it on mine... 3rd gear 3000rpm 100% throttle flat road pull turbo comparison ftw? @HarrisRacing since tagging is a thing we do on forums now apparently?

Front diff isn't a weak point in a failure sense, its a weak point in that its an open diff. If you've been around cars long at all you'll know the difference an open vs locked diff can make, so that's why it can be a good upgrade to get an upgraded diff centre in there. Note that you can't do the diff centre swap without taking the sump off, which is an engine out job, which is why a lot of people recommend it straight up instead of a "do it once it becomes a limit" kind of thing. Because at that point you don't want to be engine outing just to do a diff

I bet almost anyone with 2000hp would disagree with that... mostly because you have to be competitive to get to that range any any extra edge you can get is always welcome

anyone interested to see how the new hks 'gt3's perform?

Good choice. Kudos motorsport also has a good amount of stuff, OEM and aftermarket I'd also suggest doing up a parts list and hitting up a site like ayamaya to get all of your oem parts you need. as long as you can afford a few week lead time you can get stuff in at good prices.

Antilag looks so fun. Never got around to trying it with my new ECU before engine went bye bye, now you're telling me I shouldn't have it anyway?

Yeah. Got it done, didn't end up using them. Few ways to go about it. The gtx2860 cores are the same rear as -5s, so you need to use -5 rear housings, stock ones won't work. You can make stock front housings work, at least the ones I had did though they had a 60mm wheel in them before I bought then blown. The turbo you get is going to be more of a slightly better -5 though. In theory you could stick a gtx2860 front wheel onto the front of a -9 core and get a -9 with more compressor. This may work well I think, as the compressor on a -7 will max out, however yoi may find the rear chokes to much . (-7/-9 are smaller rears than -5, hence less lag). I heard rumours someone was trying to make a set of these but I don't know how they went. Hks just released some new billet front wheel turbos, no results on them yet.

I got only 12.1/115 in rwd with an Aussie 300awkws... so yeah factoring in your dynos reading a tad higher it seems ok. All i can say is, turn up da boost! WMI will help with that. Did you decide on the kit, still going to try a 6 injector setup or just going for a more traditional one?

Had the exact same setup in mine for a while before engine went pop, was quite happy with it also!