lwells

The PowerFC is sold pending payment. Cheers Lucien

Hi All I have a Apexi PowerFC with Hand Controller for sale for $800. The PowerFC is the normal (i.e. L-Jetro/AFM) model and suits both R32 and R33 GT-Rs. It is a second generation model (more details on model variants can be found here). This is the ultimate in 'set and forget' engine management. I have been running this unit in my R32 for over five years without a single issue. I only swapped out the PowerFC because I decided to go for a slightly bigger build without AFMs. The current map is good for 262kW (see photo). As per the attached pictures, I have retained all of the original documentation, manuals and warranty cards. I even have the original (unused) velcro strips for it! The Hand Controller has never been used and is essentially brand new. I am located in the ACT, but am happy to post. You can get a cost estimate at the Australia Post website (the package is 0.9kg and 22cm x 18cm x 9cm). By way of example, to Sydney (2000) is $25.70 with insurance. Happy to answer any questions. Kind Regards, Lucien.

What condition is the compressor in? Cheers

Pete If there is a spare set, I'm in. Just PM me payment details. Cheers Lucien

A very useful guide. Thanks. I would add a few things having just tried to install an Alpine deck into my R32 GT-R Contrary to what Aerpro may claim, their harness system is not plug and play. I found that I need to move at least one of the pins on the Aerpro Nissan harness and a number of things were missing from Aerpro's Alpine harness. I needed a crimping tool and some plugs to connect a few wires (12v battery line and the 12v antenna from memory). I ended up buying a third spare harness that I cut apart for the pins. It would have been simpler to just wire it straight in, but I do like the convenience of being able to unplug the new head unit easily (and being able to stick the original back in if I need to). For what its worth, I found that the Install Doctor wiring guide linked earlier had all the pin placements right, but some of the wire colours wrong. The other irritation is that my Alpine unit is ever so slightly smaller than the OEM unit, so there is now a small gap between the cluster surround and the headunit. Has anyone found a solution for this? I searched the forums and the only decent suggestion was some black foam. Has anyone tried DIN spacers like so?: http://www.dnaaudio.com.au/dtr-600-din-trim-rings-set-of-4 Thanks again for the guide.

Thanks for that; very kind of you. You're right, its a terrible intersection (surprising they haven't put a roundabout in, given its Canberra!). Sadly, someone tried (unsuccesfully) to steal my car that evening. Sigh.

Sent.

Also interested in any spares. The auto email notification crapped out on me so I didn't see that this had been finalised.

A very interesting thread. Being a complete suspension luddite, I am attracted to 'suspension packages' as I wouldn't have a clue where to start if I want to spec/order individual components. Sadly it seems like SK's packages were not all the seemed to be. The Elite Racing package linked earlier in the thread is appealing, but from what I understand people are saying the king springs in that package are not the best? Are there any other suspension packages of note for an R32 GT-R, or should I just go to somewhere like Heasman's and have them put together something? Lucien.

Time to resurrect. So the battery in my R32 GT-R is dying. I'm trying to buy a direct fit replacement, but none of the local battery companies list an R32 GT-R in the product guides. Does anyone know the specifications required for the R32 GT-R, or can recommend a couple of drop in replacements? Cheers, Lucien.

Thanks Richard. That's awful: my current windows and seals are fine, the seals just look a bit crappy because they have lost their shine in patches.

Hmmm. I spoke to Nissan and they said that they couldn't order just the seals, and I would have to buy the window kit (about $480 a pop). Urgh. Anybody have any ideas?

Hi Duncan Apparently they come in a kit according to Louie @ Xclusive Colours. Thanks for trying I might just ring Hornsby Nissan and ask them to search. Wish I had FAST on this machine

Hi All I'm currently away from my normal PC so I don't have access to FAST and would really appreciate a hand tracking down some part numbers. Car details (sorry, don't have access to the car so no VIN number): R32 GT-R 1989 Gunmetal Grey (KH2) I'm after the parts codes for the rubber seal kit for both 3/4 windows. Cheers, Lucien.

Great thanks. Just need to wait for my tax return to come through. Given I have some Noltec replacement sub-frame bushes, I assume there would be no gain from pineapples? Cheers, Lucien

Quick question: what is stock like in the lead up to Christmas? Cheers, Lucien.

Hi Seems like the pictures are working again? Sorry I didn't see your post/PM, I moved house/state, new job, etc and forgot to update my SAU details. predator: I would doubt it would blow fuses just for having no gas. More likely it just won't blow cold air hrd-hr30: Thanks. Cheers, Lucien.

Fair enough. Its a pretty "simple" job in terms of skills. I must confess I did it the dangerous way with the tyre jack that comes in the boot (highly not recommended if you value your life). Basically goes a little like this: 1. Remove bottom dash. Remove the surrounds from the steering column. Remove the dash surround. Remove the gauge cluster. 2. Disconnect the speedo cable from the dash (it clips in). 3. Disconnect the speedo cable from the gearbox. 4. From underneath the car, look up at the firewall where the speedo cable passes through. There is a rubber triangle with three bolts (10mm; two at the bottom, one at the top). Remove the bolts and pull out the triangle. 5. The speedo cable has a number of plastic cylinders on it that hook on to points of the underbody. Unclip them. You need to feed the speedo cable towards the rear of the car until the end that connects to the speedo is out of the cabin. 6. You will then need to feed the cable towards the front of the car to actually get it out as the rubber triangle is too big to pass all the obstructions when feeding it to the rear of the car. As I said, pretty simple. All you really need is a jack, a ratchet with 10mm socket, an adjustable wrench (or a spanner of some unknown size) and a phillips head screwdriver.. and some patience

Not in Canberra, but GaugeWorks in SA. Its $35 to have the inner cable replaced, and a few dollars more to replace the connectors at each end. All up GaugeWorks charged me $58 (inc postage). I sent it on Tuesday and had it back on Friday. I've just finished installing it, so if you have any questions, fire away.

And its $35 to have the inner cable replaced (and with metal ends). Do the maths

Ok. I had some time today (hurrah for "Canberra Day") and managed to get the gauge cluster out (which was a bitch). Unsurprisingly the white needle end behind the speedo has snapped off. (Worse news is that it snapped below the needle end itself, so I can't easily repair it). How do I remove the inner? Just pull the inner cable from the gearbox end with some pliers? I doesn't exactly feel like it wants to budge. Edit: So I tried pulling the inner cable and it doesn't seem like its small enough to pass through the larger black cable, so the black cable started to pull out. Is there some trick I'm missing here?

Quick question: where on the gearbox does the cable connect? I've had a quick flick through the workshop manual a couple of times but haven't found anything conclusive. Thanks.

Sorry to resurect an old thread, but my GT-R's speedo has decided to sit at 0. Anyone know if there is somewhere in Sydney/ACT that can fab replacement speedo cables? Cheers, Lucien.

After the center vent if its available? What condition, price, yadda? Cheers.

Interested in the boost gauge. Is it new or used? What does it come with? What model/series is it? Cheers, Lucien.