lwells

Is that 1 Bar @ 2900RPM loaded up on a dyno, or on the street?

I just used the OEM Nissan *shrug* Unsuprisingly, it fitted the bracket perfectly Edit: You might find this thread of interest: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...0%20filter&st=0

Mine's still running the original belt (well, I assume it is). Really gotta do something about that *snap* Tossing up whether to do it myself or just get it done by a mechanic. Out of interest, how easy/hard is it to tell if the water pump is cactus or a-ok? I remember SK saying that there is no point just replace the water pump without actually checking it...

Its tough to give you a definite answer since my OEM clutch was basically failing and not engaging/disenaging properly, so driving it normally was out of the question. As I think I said in my post of initial impressions, the JB clutch felt ever so slightly heavier but when it hooked up grabbed a lot harder: how much of that is placebo and how much is actually the case its hard to say I certainly don't have any problems using it: in fact one of my main criteria was that it had to be useable since I drive in traffic a lot and want something I can modulate and use without tree-trunk legs.

Well, my opinion -- and since its not my car its really irrelevant -- is as follows: 1) The front bar is too aggressive for the rest of the car at the moment. I assume you like it, so I would suggest the addition of some side skirts to match and get rid of the variation in height. 2) I'd ditch the GT wing. They look silly on road going cars IMHO, and have no place on a sedan. You could use the money to fund, say, a FMIC to fill the big gap in your front bar. 3) The wheels are not to my tastes, but again, that's not the point is it 4) I wouldn't be listing stickers as "modifications"

Hey sewid, IIRC, it was out on a Monday and I express posted it up to Jim that day. If not for a delivery problem, it would have been back by Thursday, so really quick basically FAT32: My thoughts stay the same, mainly because I haven't driven the car much. I have three more weeks till my honours thesis is due, so its all study study study at the moment The car is pushing stock GT-R power, but I'll be fixing that soon and let you know Edit: Whoops: its a single plate "stage one", which is essentially an uprated pressure plate and new material on the stock clutch. Given that twoogle is pushing stupidly high power through a single plate Jim Berry (the next one up I think -- I guess it would be "stage two"), I see no reason to waste money on fancy Japanese multiplate clutches.

OK, I wasn't going to respond since -- like so many other threads on here -- things seem to have to degenerate into a personal slanging match. I don't quite understand why your so defensive given everyone is impressed and has congratulated you on your results. You seem to want to defend CRD to the death based on your, obviously positive, experience. My opinion, for what its worth, is that CRD probably did the best tune they could in line with what they believed the owner wanted, but I am willing to wait an see what BEL can do before assuming that other people setups must be wrong. If CRD feel the need to defend their work, let them: Jim seems to be monitoring this thread. By the way, I looked at your dyno sheets but thanks for presuming otherwise. Yes, you do although its somewhat hard to quantify exactly given the second sheet doesn't list RPM and the power scale is slightly different. I'm was not saying that I necessarily agree with TommyK -- then again, cam timing seems to differ between engines and I don't know his car/setup from a bar of soap -- but I was pointing out that he was talking about his spool issue rather than power figures, which I think are quite different issues: would you not agree? So you keep saying, and I think almost everyone -- my self included -- has congratulated you on your results. Well there is only one way to find out, and so far no one has put them side-by-side. Again, however, my point was that the turbos aren't of equal spec so saying 'mine spool earlier because they are HKS' isn't relevant given one will obviously spool slower because of its specs. That's relevant how? Oh, I forgot, its all a dick swinging contest. Silly me, here I was thinking that this was a good place to discuss issues like adults. Terribly sorry. Clearly only those with fantastic-wonderful-best-ever-most-reasearched setups can comment on these boards.

No offence, but that sounds quite arrogant: anyone who blindly subscribed to a 'you get what you pay for' philosophy is, in my not so humble opinion, foolish. If the part performs better then it justifies a higher price otherwise your just buying hype and marketing. For starters, the 707160-5 is a larger turbo than the GT-SS's, so it will always be slower to spool. However, given its smaller than the GT-RS, it seems odd that its spooling later than the GT-RS marko has all things being equal. From what pete has said -- who is running the same turbos with some similar modifications -- the spool should be earlier. TommyK didn't suggest that cam timing would make no difference to power, he said he doubted it would improve his late-spool issue signifiantly. I think the inference is that perhaps CRD tuned for peak power rather than average power or vice versa. I don' think -- and TommyK has said its not -- meant to be a criticsm of CRD, but possibly a misunderstanding of his objectives with the car. Either way its all academic, and with any luck TommyK will let us know how things went at BEL. Edit: Trying to make more sense

TommyK is running the Garrett 707160-5s. The 707160-10 is basically the HKS GT-RS, the 707160-7 basically the GT-SS, and the 707160-5 sits in between (one might think of it as roughly equating to the HKS2530 I guess).

Sorry, what I meant was: I remember you saying that the cam timing needed to be played with (and, IIRC, there was also some issue with your boost controller). Hence I was wondering if those issues had been corrected and a dyno done. Seems like all will be answered soon anyway

You sure you're not confusing them with the Trust dumps?

I don't mean to sound rude, but please search in the future. This comes up like once or twice a week, invariably by new members who haven't bothered looking. A search would have yielded more than enough recommendations. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...%2Brecommend%2A

Very much looking forward to the dyno sheet...

Word. Except my car is so stock I guess we should ask Mr Nissan what its built for because I haven't had much influence. In the end I want a reliable (hahaha! I kill me!) and responsive street car. I don't expect it to be a daily driver. I want it to be something that I can jump into, find that piece of twisty road, and just have a blast. Were in not few a few issues at the moment that I don't have time to fix, it pretty much gives me that anyway but there is always the endless desire to improve bits and pieces. Someday I would love to spend some time improving my driving on a track but I think I will select with something more mundance (read: cheaper) for that as GT-Rs seem to cost enough to keep on the road, let alone the track.

TommyK: Have all your goodies been installed and a final tune performed? If so, do you have a dyno sheet you wouldn't mind posting up? IIRC some of your modifications are very similar so it would make an interesting point of comparison.

IIRC, the hand controller is additional too (as with the PFC Pro).

^^^ What he said. Its most likely that this car is a financial (or repairable) writeoff, but obviously check first.

Yes, they are known as their "Competition Pipes". I've never quite understood the appeal of CES products (atleast for RB26s) given their dumps seem to be copies of Japanese products yet cost more in mild steel than the proper product in stainless... (OK, that might be a slight exaggeration, but the price difference in minor)

Interesting. So the R33 GTS-t wheel doesn't adjust for reach (ie. in/out). Is this the case with all R33 derivatives (inc. GT-R), or only the lower models?

I'd also look at buying a Magic (see Magic Performance on NissanSilvia) or Catco (see BATBML) cat before hand. By the way, cat-back Japanese exhausts have fallen a lot in price. You can get the Trust Power Extreme II (or whatever its called) full stainless cat-back for about $800, give or take a few bucks. More expensive brands like Fujitsubo are about the $1000 mark.

Hey disco, Sorry I haven't replied to your PM: I've been extremely busy. Do you know how or where one could secure the correct map/s?

Yes, but it gives you a ballpark price doesn't it? If Bee-R are flogging them for Y20000 through their outlet, I would imagine retailers aren't going to be able to get them to you for much less than what, $300-odd (that's assuming they can get it lower than Bee-R is advertising to end customers)? Edit: Here you go, yours for US$266: http://www.takakaira.com/asp/table.asp?id=...STtPqQqlnMokrNm Edit 2: It also has some interesting info about using it with a PFC:

Dude... the edit button is there for a reason. You can buy them from the Bee-R factory outlet on Yahoo Japan: http://page11.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n23731870

Heh. I have posted in that MetalCast thread before, I was just wanting to confirm if it was the same stuff or different. Looks the goods

Quick, grab the tinfoil hat! Its nothing to do with it being "convenient", its to do with them covering their arse. They are not the regulatory body and for them to say "X, Y or Z is legal" makes them liable.