lwells

Jerry, how are you going for stock on these? I am getting sick and tired of recharging the battery in my car, so I wouldn't mind getting one shortly.

Interested, but also after the same details as femno

Nick: this still for sale champ?

Given I currently work at the AusPost facility that handles all EMS parcels, I think I can add a little perspective on this. In an ideal world, 2-3 days would be about right. It usually goes something like this: 1 day for lodgment and movement within sender's country, 1 day in transit (i.e. on a plane) to Australia, 1 day for processing and movement within Australia. In reality 4-5 days is much more likely. Depending on when and where the item is lodged within the sender's country, sometimes its upwards of 2 days before it gets on a plane. If the plane is a later flight, or is not running to schedule, and the mail doesn't arrive at Sydney airport before about 1PM, we (AusPost) are under no obligation to process it that day, so it usually then sits there till next morning. Its then x-rayed and customs and/or quarantine might grab it (in which case your looking at anything from no delay up to about 7 days). If you live in metro Sydney or Queensland, items will be sent on to a delivery centre on the day they are committed for despatch to customers, and then the item is usually delivered the next day. So basically if the item takes 2 days in the country of origin, is on a late or delayed flight, is inspected by customs, and you live in a regional area or any state besides NSW or Queensland, it can easily take 6-8 days. Even for Sydney metro I think 4 days is probably a good average.

Glad you found the writeup handy To be honest, apart from the circlip business -- which is one of those 'could be 5 minutes; could be 5 hours' jobbies -- the rest of the procedure is not too difficult, just a little time consuming. Certainly helps to have a mate around. No idea on the ohms: all that electrical stuff is gibberish to me. People start talking amps and ohms and the eyes glaze over You could try giving John Wallace a call (number in first post) and say your trying to work out if the windings are dead .... he seems to know his stuff when it comes to aircon windings. Edit: Re: getting the pulley off, mine needs a few solid knocks but it wasn't too bad. You could try soaking it with WD-40 or some other lubricant (e.g. Penetrene) for a couple of hours.

Of course. No sane person steps out their front door and thinks "I feel like crashing today". Yes, telling the owner/driver he was stupid doesn't really do anything to help him, but surely people are allowed to react and have a view about the accident and those who caused it? Perhaps "shit happens", but you essentially make it inevitable when you do 140-ish through a nasty corner with cold semi-slicks. There comes a point at which it should no longer be unexpected that a catastrophic event will occur; that is, you stack the odds so heavily and obviously in to the "omg f**kup" category that its plainly clear the only result will be an unhappy one.

I would get them ceramic coated rather than wrap them (if I had my time again). When you put the dump pipes on the exhaust flange of the turbos the studs are extremely close to the dump pipes so fitting the nuts on is an absolute bitch, so much so it was impossible to have the wrap right up to the back of the dump pipe flange (the nut just wouldn't fit with the extra thickness from the wrap). YMMV. Some people haven't had this problem. I can't remember how much wrap I used exactly. I bought one of these DEI Thermal kits. I am pretty sure I still have one of the 50" rolls left (but don't quote me). I'll send you a more detailed explanation view PM.

Nice to see you found somewhere

I've added some photos of my install of the Trust/Greddy dumps here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;#entry2422208

I've attached a couple of pictures of the install I've finally got around to getting of the father's digicam. I've made some notes in the pictures. I'll try to remember to take some more (particularly of the front turbo and its support, and the top of the aircon outlet in the firewall) next time I have the car in bits.

I use the pre-mixed Nulon. No worries with mixing proportions, just tip in and go. Temperatures seem absolutely stable (mind you I am in Sydney, not the hotter parts of AU).

What Adrian said. Jim's the man for clutches.

Here is the procedure for adding new coolant.... just follow the bit relevant to bleeding: Edit: also set the climate control to max heat so water flows through the heater core. -- Adding the new coolant: Adding the new coolant is quite a laborious and repetitive task, but extremely important given that air pockets in the coolant system is likely to cause sharp spikes in engine temperature. If your coolant is pre-mixed you can go ahead. If, like me, your coolant needs to be mixed with water, obviously work out the required proportions and combine (if you don't have a big enough container, do about 2L at a time. Small variations in the mixture won't matter, but try to be accurate). Below is the procedure described in the R33 workshop manual (its a little clearer than the R32 workshop manual) with my comments/correction/suggestions in []'s: As I noted, I had to 'top up --> turn on car --> race engine --> cool down car' about four times before the levels stabilised. Be careful when opening the radiator cap after cooling the car: the coolant can be surprisingly hot.

Photos should be working again.

For those that care, I have fixed the images (again... again.. again! urgh!)

Okie dokies. Another day, another fix of this thread Pictures should all be working now.

Yup, I did. Its called the "air release valve".

Having done some research on this, it appears that the current version of IPB Gallery doesn't support the kind of image embedding in posts we use to have (which is a damn shame, and a huge oversight on their part). It also doesn't seem to be high on their todo list for the next major release...

I received mine today. They are impressively big and heavy. Should make a good conversation piece when I set them up on the coffee table Bl4cK32: Thanks for all your efforts, particularly given Noltec's... err.. slow response. It must have been difficult to be caught between an unhelpful supplier and people demanding their product. Bl4cK32 posted up some instructions somewhere that explain the process, although if Noltec has some it would be nice to get our hands on those. As for where, I am fairly sure someone (Duncan?) said Nathan recently pressed in/out some sub frame bushes for them. Your other option for removal is using a hacksaw to cut to the metal surround and hammering out the bush (as an optional extra, you can burn out the rubber )

My mechanic installed a second hand pressure sensor. I think it was $75 fitted of the top of my head.

Christian, Not to nag, but is there any time frame for this? I'm not sure if I should rebuild the images in the tutorials I have posted or just wait...? Edit: Also, how do I add images from my gallery to posts...? If I could do that then at least I could fix them myself.

Sorry that the images are stuffed I don't know whether to fix them (again) because Prank has said they would fix them forum wide.

I PM'ed you a day or two ago with my address. Just want to check you got it.