lwells

You are never going to get a definite answer. Everybody has different opinions on a good exhaust note: witness the huge droney exhausts some people install (and as you can probably guess, I prefer something less attention seeking). Moreover, other modifications can have an impact on exhaust sound so two cars with the same exhaust but different modifications will likely sound different.

A lot of these options are being discussed here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=80624

I think you mean "AAAAAA++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++" don't you? Thanks for the headsup. Edit: What's the go with warranty on these? Is he an official Garrett (US) supplier?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=87521

This thread gives me a headache (must be the lack of a cat converter). Here's an amazing idea: how about just sticking a CAT on?

I hear richard is a panzy and only drink light beer. Must be the drugs.

Both have been covered extensively. Keep the stock BOV (unless its broken/faulty) and don't bother with the T/T (just drive sensibly for the last few minutes before switching off). Spend the money on something that will actually improve the cars performance.

And their website. Frames... its like 1997 all over again

Do a search of the Stagea forum for a thread by SydneyKid outlining changing the timing belt and the exhaust cam wheel. If you are handy with spanners and have half a brain you should be OK. If you aren't sure, take it to a mechanic. Screw the install and kiss your engine goodbye.

A better idea is to trundle down to a workshop with ultrasonic cleaning IMHO. Still, nice to see this stuff worked for you.

Well, maybe give your local turbo shop a call? GCG is in Sydney (not sure wtf Baldry is ) http://www.gcg.com.au/

Yes, likewise. I have no idea why. I remembered some of the details from the two threads so I search for using those instead.

Focus on the RB25, but still applies: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...nvert+calorific http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...0calorific&st=0

I've never seen a servo provide gloves for diesel... and my family has two diesel cars.

Advanced Wars for the DS is also meant to be great... Plus the PSP release lineup looks a little...... sparse.

Should give you some idea. Hope you have deep pockets though http://www.houseofkolor.com/hok/index.jsp

Problem is everyone will be sAfrican Americaning or laughing at you

Apparently 1.25l of optimax is now more expensive than 1.25l of coke. I've decided to drink optimax and put coke in my car.

Thanks for the map. Now I just need to read up on turbo tech a bit so I can understand it I am just running stocko R32 GT-R turbos at the moment. I have to pull them off shortly to fix a head-to-turbo-manifold leak so I am installing some goodies at the same time. That got me thinking... and I figured given the propensity of the stocko turbos to let go, and the few horror stories of reversion, its probably reasonably cheap insurance to change them let alone the other advantages of steel wheeled bb turbos and 15 odd years of development. However the rest of my car is very stock and I don't have the money to upgrade all the support systems at the moment. I want to try and find a turbo that gives good performance -- average power is what I care about -- on a stock car but also has some headroom for future modifications (cams, cam gears, injectors, etc). The GT-SS seems about right but the HKS price is too rich for me.

As silver said, that is incorrect. The HKB ON-110 is the correct boss for use on the R32 GT-R (except for the V-specs I think, but my Japanese isn't good and it could be all 92-94 GT-Rs) and is designed for HICAS. The prongs (on the early GT-Rs) are meant to be slightly offset: if you have them at 12 and 6 o'clock you've got the wrong alignment. Edit: Here is the HKB site the gives you the model numbers: http://www.hkbsports.com/product/boss/nissan/nissan.html Lucien.

R32 TT: You raise an interesting point. The -7 seems to be very similar to the GT-SSs. It looks to be within a poofteenth of the GT-SS's to me: in fact how much of that is just more accurate/different measurement?. Amazing, it was staring me in the face. Edit: Does anyone (Andrew?) have access to the maps for the Garrett 707160-5? They still aren't on the Garrett site.

Its not: the ADRs require black wiring. I checked this with the Australian approved reseller of Directed gear (can't find the email ATM). In fact I said as much in your original group buy thread.

I am no turbo expert, so I would wait for pnblight and discopotato to comment, but a cursory look suggests that the Garret GT2560R 466541- 3 and 466541- 4 do not have the right turbine housing (i.e. the dump flange bolt pattern is incorrect for a GT-R).

The lights issue might be poor connectors on the back of the lcd/control panel. The fuse blowing is most likely burnt out windings, and you are certainly not alone. I'm hoping to get around to fixing mine soon. Jax was kind enough to describe the process here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...58631&hl=clutch Lucien.

HICAS has been covered to death on this forum. A search would have told you everything you need Yes, it can be fixed (assuming the mechanicals and electronics aren't damaged). Usually its one of the following or a combination (in rough order of occurence): 1) Low powersteering fluid. 2) Aftermarket steering wheel with wrong or incorrectly installed BOSS kit. 3) Poor wheel alignment. 4) Speed sensor wire has been cut. 5) Leaking powersteering hoses.