lwells

I don't suppose you have a dyno printout for your setup when it was fairly stock bar the turbos? Drag times aren't really a good indication of average power. Cheers, Lucien.

Obviously there is never going to be a one-size-fits-all turbo My point is basically this: the 707160-5 seems to be the flavour of the month at the moment, but I am concerned its a little on the large size for stock-ish setups where response and average power are the main considerations. Some people have reported that even with cam work that boost is not kicking in a big way till 5000-ish RPM. Obviously a lot depends on exactly what is done and the state of tune, but if we just generalise for a moment.... What would be a good choice to replace the stock setup that provide near OEM spool (bearing in mind that the R32 GT-R turbos are not exactly modern even if they are small) but more headroom? The GT-SSs seem like a good compromise but they are very expensive IMHO. The 707160-5 obviously have the headroom but as I said, I'm concerned they will be too laggy: as for the GT28RS hybrid, surely that will be even bigger/worse in that respect? Lucien.

So, just to finalise this list for the viewers at home Jim Berry Stage 1 (already balanced). Standard flywheel: machined and balanced. Balance clutch and flywheel together. Replace rear main seal (comes with Jim's clutch). Check gearbox input seal and replace if necessary. Change throwout (aka. thrust) bearing. Check spiggot bush and replace if necessary. New fluid.

Re clears: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=82362&hl=clear LW.

Very helpful Just one further question: you say replace the spiggot bearing and spiggot bush. I assume, given you said its a bush in some cars and a bearing in the other, you don't mean that there is both in the Skyline box? Lucien.

Could it possibly be the heat exchanger?

You didn't get up my nose You're just more likely to get helpful responses in maintenance for this sort of question IMHO. Here is the tutorial SK posted: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=73824 Lucien.

Check the Stagea section: SK posted a guide for RB25s and I doubt the RB20s would be much different. Also, "Forced Induction" is the wrong forum to post in. Try Maintenance.

Think of it as a tax on the luxury of owning a car valued over $56k, rather than a tax on "luxury cars".

Whilst the R32 GTS-t wing looks boring, the R32 GT-R wing is tough. Leave it, and if you must, add the Nismo lip.

You can, however, run different AFMs like the one from the Zed or Q45.

Modifying any car, whether its a 180SX, GT-R, 240z, or 1800 is a quick way to loose money. If you want to save money for a more expensive car, buy a boring shitbox Corolla or Laser and just put fuel and oil in.

I'm having enough trouble keeping the car on the road let alone the track (or exhibit my horrendous driving skills) Can anyone confirm that the 'rear gearbox seal' is the 'gearbox input seal', and that the throwout bearing = the thrust bearing? On another point, how does the spigot bearing differ from the thrust/throwout (or am I just confused and they are all the same thing)? Cheers, Lucien.

I'd put my money on the timing belt being too tight: its quite a common mistake. According to SK's guide, there should be about "5mm in and out (ie; 10 mm total movement) using one finger". I really must get my changed soon (peace of mind, etc). Richard: did you get Nath to change it? Any idea of the rough cost? Lucien.

Now that I finally have five seconds to think (damn Uni and work ) its time to get this sorted. So, to summarise, I should have the following done: Jim Berry Stage 1 (already balanced). Standard flywheel: machined and balanced. Balance clutch and flywheel together Replace rear main seal Replace gearbox input seal (yogi000: is this the same as the "rear gearbox seal"?) Change throwout bearing (is this aka. the thrust bearing, or different?). Change spigot bearing. New fluid. Anything I have missed? Cheers, Lucien.

I remember SK saying he tested a split dump/front setup and it brought boost on a good 300RPM earlier. If you have a R34 (as per your sig), they run a better dump than the R32/33 so the advantages of aftermarket dumps will be smaller.

$1000-ish (well, that's what I saw them for a few weeks ago) for a boost controller is crazy money. Buy a good EBC [which you have already] and spend the change on stuff that makes the car go (rather than just looks bling). LW.

Might be worth stating if that's delivered or pickup. If its pickup, your location would be good too

I remember a Wheels mag article about the R32 where they said it had a rubbish suspension setup for Australian roads. I'd go the Golf V GTi (probably manual as its still better than DSG from what I have read), followed by the Clio, Pug, Megana Sport, Cooper S, and then the 147. You'll get murdered on resale with an Alfa too, but its certainly an emotive car Considered a second hand 3-series, say a 325 or 330? Lucien.

Just to be a smart arse: AP Engineering.

GT2860 (707160-5). They can be had for about $2400 for the pair (see here). My 0.02c is that the X-force dumps are pretty expensive for what are just HKS copies, particularly if you want to change your front pipe too. Better off grabbing the Greddy Front Extension Pipes (~$1100). Seemingly not. Have a search for the thread by John from UAS about his improved stock manifolds. Quite some discussion in there. Lucien.

You'd think I had killed his dog or something. Midnight pointed out an advantage of a fibreglass bonnet, I alluded to what some might see as a weakness. I seem to recall some posts awhile ago from people who had issues with the hinges sheering on one brand of FRP bonnet due to a lack of strength. The weight comparisons to C/F bonnets can also be misleading: most people think their $800 "C/F bonnet" is the real deal when its little more than an FRP bonnet with a C/F top skin.

I've been told that Clark Rubber often have these too.

My point was its not like fibrglass has a weight-to-weight advantage over C/F. LW.

Sorry, missed that due to the forum change. I haven't got my replacement clutch yet: I've been too busy to do the necessary running around. If you want feedback on Jim Berry clutches try PM'ing 2rismo, Leewah or Paul/Stacey (two.06l).