lwells

That's rubbish. Greenline, Perfect Run, Taka Kaira and a zillion and one smaller sellers (just look at NissanSilvia) can supply parts from Japan. Being the best known player does not equate to a monopoly.

What's a "monopoly myth"? Look, noone is forcing anyone to use Nengun. IMHO their turn around is too slow, but if I want the absolute cheapest price (usually), I know where to go. Personally I would pay a bit more and use Greenline if you don't want to save every cent. Greenline confirm stock levels when you ask for a quote. Their turn around is usually very good, and they are within 5-10% of Nengun on most products.

In fairness to Nengun, they make it no attempt to claim otherwise (ie. that they hold stock). They are quite clear about the ordering process. And it doesn't suprise me they don't stock parts because they don't have a store front, the parts can be very expensive, and they aren't interchangable (ie. seperate lines for almost every engine, car, and generation). I said this in another thread, but it bares repeating here: if you want to save money, be prepared to waitl if you want something quickly, pay more. There is a reason companies that hold stock tend to have higher prices.... because they have overheads like holding stock.

Do you have a dyno sheet (assuming you had a GT-R tuned there)? I would love to see it.

You don't need a custom's broker, though it makes the process easier. You can actually register with customs 'integrated cargo management system' or whatever they call it, although its a pain in the arse (you have to have signatures witnessed by a JP, pay a fee of $40-60, fill out detailed forms, etc). If you talk to the gateway facility people for long enough (like I did), they'll probably just release it if you sign a couple of forms

First of all, not to sound like too much of a stickler, but you should always be prepared to pay the taxes/duties on items. Its the law; custom evasion has extremely harsh penalties. Blah blah blah be a good person blah. You'll also notice if you read the customs documentation closely that they reserve the right to combine the value of parcels delivered within a short time frame, I imagine specificallyto target this type of behaviour. I also agree Beer Baron: don't bother with other peoples experiences. Whatever system customs uses (random chance? targetted taxing? who knows) means that there is very little correlation between individual experiences. In my case, for instance, every parcel I have ever received from overseas has been stopped for no reason I can ascertain. For what its worth, I've spent an awful lot of time talking to the customs gateway facility (incidentally, I almost always get the same two people; small staff pool) in the past. Want to know how they check the value of an item? Google. No joke.

Delays are always part of saving money in my experience. If you want something quickly, pay the RRP; if you want to save, be prepared to wait You've kept us updated throughout the process, and frankly I think that's more important than anything else; I don't care about delays as long as I have updates now and again to let me know how things stand. All in all, I think you've done your part

Thanks for your efforts and keeping is us all updated. Will you be running group buys for all the other bushes etc for the rear subframe?

What would be the effect of running in Shoot81 mode? From what I have read, Shoot81 has the highest ramp rate value (~200 vs ~130 for Shoot6)

Installation manuals for Twin Power are available here if you're interested: http://www.racecarnewmedia.co.uk/hks/installation.htm

Paul, I think you mean the post 2000 models, yes?

I'm still definately down for a driver's side (depending on when this happens, I will check my passenger side when I get home). Offer still stands regarding delivery if the timing works.

For weight loss, fruit makes a good small snack inbetween the major meals: it helps to keep your metabolism up and supress appetite so you are less likely to binge. For dinner you want to avoid anything that has lots of fats or sugars (der) and try and cut down on carbohydrate heavy foods (ie. rice, pasta, potatoes, bread, etc) as your metabolism slows at night. According to the dietry buffs, things like fish, boiled chicken and lean red meats, perhaps with some simple carbs like a salad (careful with any dressing!) are good.

Hi Steve, Been there, done that To quote myself (bit self-indulgent I know ; you might like to check out some futher replies in the linked thread too) 1) Aircon Discharge Pipe: I removed the pipe and cut the rubber just after it makes its 90 degree turn down towards the ground (ie. almost all the bit pointing down). I then got some copper pipe and bent it in to the same basic shape. Using a ring clamp, I applied some silicon around the top of the copper pipe, slid it in to the remainder of the original rubber piping (ie. the very top bit that plugs in to the firewall), did the clamp up very tight, then used some more silicon around the edge where the rubber and copper were joined. I then removed the plastic clip that holds the bottom of the discharge pipe in place. I went and bought a metal "banana clip" (from Auto1) which had a sort of groove/holder that was perfectly shaped/sized for running a small ring clamp through (~20mm variety). So I simply put the ring clamp in the groove and used some pliers to push the sides of the groove together to hold the clamp. It fitted the hole the original clip was in perfectly; slide the clamp over the end of the copper pipe, did it up, and fanny's your aunt. I should grab some photos as it makes a lot more sense in pictures 2) Rear dump + O2 sensor: I fitted the O2 sensors before installing the dumps because I remembered how hard it was to try and install them later. Richard: the pipes are designed to take the R33/34 GT-R sensors, but Trust includes a little adapter that screws in to the hole and reduces the size so you can fit the R32 variety (R31Nismoid: this is included with the front pipes in the bag of nuts/studs/etc). However -- and this is what wrxhoon is asking about -- the ~1cm increase in height caused by the adaptor makes the top of the rear O2 sensor hit the coolant/vacuum lines that run around from the back of the block. Unfortunately the SAU gallery is down, but there are two lines that emerge from behind the engine and are held in place by a bracket towards the back on the right hand side of the engine. With a fsck load of fiddling I managed to get the lines back on the bracket, and the bracket screwed on to the head/block. The lines are pushing against the top of the O2 sensor, but apart from taking drastic action by attacking the top of the sensor or the bracket there doesn't seem a better way. It may well have bent my O2 sensor.. who knows? With R33/34 sensors this should be a lot easier but I was a little concerned after reading the oxygen sensor thread in general maintainence that there might be some slight differences in composition of the O2 sensors and thus cause issues with the ECU getting correct readings. 3) Support bars: The Trust pipes do not have anyway to attach them to the bell-house support bars. I had a quick chat to Gary (SydneyKid) about the viability of running without the supports and it was his opinion that it would be a mistake as any weight would be taken by the gearbox mounting (where the cat attaches) which is rubber and obviously moves, hence is useless. I had a decent think about this and came up with the idea of welding on a nut to the dump pipes so I could attach the support bar. So what I did was test fit each of the turbo + dump + manifold assemblies (individually as it was easier). I then played around with the support bars until I could find an angle so that they were attached to the bell housing but would also be at about the right angle / on the right plan so it could be attached to the dump pipe once a nut was welded. I then marked the approximate positions as best I could on the dump pipes, grabbed some nuts, and had an exhaust shop weld them on in the designated spots. On a tangent, f**k me dead if the welder didn't just hold the nut with bare fingers and no eye protection whilst he tacked it in place (and then grabbed some protection when building up the weld). They be real men in Oak Flats (oh and thanks to 2rismo for the recommendation of Oak Flats Muffler Men). I also had to modify the support bars. The rear bar needs a small chunk taken out otherwise it hits a rib on the side of the block. It also needs to be bent in to shape. The front bar requires much more drastic modification; I basically had to chop a good third off, remove the middle mounting point for the coolant (or is it oil?) line, redrill a slot for a screw, bend it in to the right shape, etc. Much to my suprise when I did a final test fit (urgh... took two test fits for each turbo before the final proper fit..... got sick and tired pulling the turbo/dump/manifokds in/out really quickly) everything was almost exactly spot on. I tiny bit more bending and everything was peachy. I also fabricated a small piece of aluminium so I could attach the rear coolant (or is it oil) line to the middle hole on the rear support bar. I just cut of the little bracket on the front coolant (oil?) line as there is no way I can connect it to the modified front support bar. I am extremely pleased with how this turned out given the extreme time pressure we (my dad and I) were under on that day and how it all could have been way too hard. 4) Installing the dump pipes on to the turbos: You will need to use the included studs in the turbo as the piping of the dumps is angled such that longer studs will mean you can't actually screw it down. There is also a design fault in that it was simply impossible to install one of the nuts; it would not fit. I had to file down the pipes and flange a little and take off the top of one of the nuts with a bench grinder before I could actually get the nut to fit without hitting the piping (sorry, can't remember exactly which dump it was). Trust also laughably includes locking nuts (ie. the thread inside tapers), but there is no way to do them up enough so that they actually start to lock. Also, the turbo-->dump gaskets they include are that will shaped so in certain (inner) areas of the gasket are very close to the edges of the flange. Be careful when placing them 5) Installation into the car: The rear turbo was very hard to get in place because of the length of the dump pipe; it hits the side of the gearbox or part of the chassis directly opposite and takes a lot of twisting and turning. If I recall correctly (IIRC), the best method was to try and place it in as it would sit and then rotate it counter clockwise (ie. towards the engine), slide it further down, then rotate it back. Again, IIRC I also had to place the manifold on at the same time because it wouldn't fit once the turbo/dump were sitting in the engine bay. The front was much easier although again having to put it in with the manifold at the same time is a PITA. The good news is that actually doing up the nuts that hold the manifolds on to the head was much much easier; I was able to get the torque wrench on every nut (unlike the OEM setup where I could only get access to about 1/2 the nuts with a wrench and the rest only with spanners). Likewise you can torque 3 of the four turbo-->manifold bolts on each turbo with a wrench; you'll need a spanner for one on each (the bastard one that sits under a manifold runner). Hope that covers most questions. In regards to the heatshields, the ones that hang off the turbo will still fit although without one of the nuts. The manifold heatshields will obviously fit (unless you are changing the manifolds). Given how close the dump pipes come to the aircon piping and the underneath of the car, its definately preferable to apply some sort of heat shielding. I used DEI thermal tape and paint due to time constraints. Whilst its good stuff, its annoying to apply and not particularly cheap (contact Racespec on SAU for some pricing). If time had not been a constraint, I would have had the trust pipes ceramic coated. I only installed mine a month or two ago, so its still fresh my mind; if you have any other questions, fire away. I am currently in Japan so it might take me a few days to reply.

Christian All there I think! Seems to be a problem with one issue, but not sure if its carried over from the previous gallery or a new problem? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...md=si&img=45666

As I said in this post, I see the issue of whether police should be legally allowed to incite street racing as entirely distinct from whether or not they are allowed too. To reiterate what I said in linked post, I would agree its not necessarily a good use of police resources. In fact I would love to hear what the police themselves think of it as it seems to me its an entirely political solution. Coincidence that this practice is apparently more common in the aftermath of that spate of P-plater crashes? I think not. And its a very valid point you raise, but whether or not a law is "ethical" (I think perhaps you mean "just" rather than ethical) is distinct from whether or not something is legal or otherwise. As a sort of left-wing socialist pinko I have a huge issue with the ever increasing police powers and police-state trajectory we seem to be on. My main issue, however, was that regardless of the unjust or unethical nature of police action in this particular case I don't think its sufficient to use that as some sort of mitigating reason to explain what is clearly dangerous behavior. So you see, after all of that, we in a sense share the same (or at least, one of the same) view.

I get the feeling you're just winding people up, but I guess I could be wrong Your reasons are, to my mind, just a lot of excuses. Just because you don't have easy access to a circuit doesn't excuse you from the road rules. How do you know that nobody will exit a building in the industrial estate? Fact is, you don't. You can't control all the variables of the environment. Yes, you (and whomever your racing with) know the risks. What about other motorists and pedestrians who inadvertently get caught up in your racing since there is no way you can guarantee someone won't accidentally get in the way? Even assuming only those knowing the risks are involved in an accident, what about the ambos/police/firies who have to come along and scrape up what's left? What about friends and relatives? What about the cost of the clearup? I dunno, it just seems like a very selfish attitude to me. Famous last words As Liz said, and the RTA's statistics show, the majority of drivers overrate their own abilities, particularly younger men. Not, not at all. What *I* (and I can only speak for myself) am saying is not that you definitely will kill someone, as the odds are that you won't kill or injure anyone or even have a minor accident, but the even the slightest chance is not worth the risk of injuring or killing yourself, a fellow racer, or some innocent third party. Err.. another excuse Getting a little bit more on topic: unless there was a spate of them, or the accident was truly horrific, my guess is the public reaction would be pretty muted. There's been dozens of high speed police chases that have ended in fatalities and not much has happened.

See, to me that's just a pack of excuses to justify reckless driving. What if someone gets lost and happens to drive down your industrial estate? Or god forbid some pedestrian is crossing the road as you race down it? There are just way too many variables on the public roads. I'm not saying I, or anyone else, is perfect. I'm sure we've all probably accelerated a little bit too hard out of that corner, or driven a little over the speed limit, but actually racing others on the public road... that's just plain stupid IMHO.

IMHO this is not a good strategy. You should eat at least three meals a day to keep your metabolism bubbling along. If you have large breaks between meals, your body starts to slow your metabolism and stores as much energy as it can in anticipation of the drought period (ie. from lunch to breakfast the next day). I think you are better off having a light dinner than no dinner at all.

Any chance of an update? I mean I have posted a couple of tutorials with images linked to the gallery. If my images are lost for good, I would prefer to know so I can restore them ASAP.... I won't complain if things have gone pearshaped. Well, only a little

No real tricks. A few points You probably will need some way to pump the oil in (you can't really just pour it in ) Make sure you undo the refill hole first Might want to do the transfer case at the same time.

I'm not sure I follow your reasoning here. How do you know that a john is going to solicit sex from someone else yet also know that someone caught street racing wouldn't otherwise? Seems like a bit of a stretch to me. In both cases the police are providing the opportunity for someone to commit a crime and the choice is ultimately made by the other party. Just because someone is "egging you on" doesn't mean you have to actually race them; showing some self control is part of being responsible on the roads. Yes, I think there are two issues here. One is to do with the legality or otherwise of police behaviour (my views are obvious). The other is whether or not police *should* be engaged in this activity. I see this as a totally seperate issue. I would agree there are probably more important things they could be doing than cruising the streets trying to arrest potential street racers. However, as the enforcement arm of the government, the police are unfortunately subject to the whims of state and/or federal government (depending on the branch of the police). Edit: Also this relates to your comment about people being "happy" that police engage is this sort of activity. Am I "happy about it"? Not really: as I said I think there are better uses of police resources. However I do not accept that this absolves people of their own responsibility in engaging in street racing or that police are involved in illegal activity and no better than street racers. Hope that makes it a bit clearer.

LOL. And you too can die of heart disease like Mr Atkins himself.

#8 fuse is the fuel pump. I think you mean #10, in which case your windings are probably shot; there are some tests in the workshop manual you can run. If it is your windings, your looking at ~$120 and a day or two of work. See the tutorial I posted about removing and repairing it. Fuse guide: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...md=si&img=47849

LOL. I'm not doing well this afternoon. By "cam install" I meant cam wheel install. My point was that OS G wheels are very nice and people shouldn't shy away from them. You could be right about the CAS, but its still weird that the ECU doesn't want to talk unless the engine is off. Anyway, this is probably offtopic