lwells

Hey, Check the last post in the thread I linked in the first post of this thread. Not sure if the Trust dumps have the same fitment as the R32 GT-R, or the other R-series though..? Lucien.

d00dz: Hey matey. Done: PM me about how you want to pay/post/pickup whatever Edit: Just so others know, I still have the box for the opened one.. its just been opened (der) Cheers, Lucien.

ratedGTR: Thanks matey. The original Nissan's are stupidly expensive and there is no benefit (well, except for not having to spend two minutes modifying the plug): these aftermarket ones represent great value given you can make the cost back in a couple of tank fulls of petrol IIRC, O2 sensors are only officially rated to last 40,000KM: most people don't bother replacing them then wonder why they have crappy fuel economy. Lucien.

I spoke to Daniel (ocean): thanks for the heads up Troy. According to Daniel for the R32 GT-R you need NTK OTD2F-2B. If I get time this week, I will try and get some and will be able to confirm. If anyone is interested, I am selling off the two EL sensors I bought here Cheers, Lucien.

Hi Guys, I have two brand new and unused NGK oxygen sensors. They are the direct fitment EL Falcon variety -- part no. 0ZA23-D2 / stock no. 0192 -- which, as per this thread, work with R32 (not GT-R) and R33/R34s (inc. GT-R) and are a great way to drastically improve your fuel economy: some people have double their milage per tank. You need to swap over the connector, but its dead easy (see the thread linked for details). As mentioned, both are new and unused: I purchased them exactly two weeks ago in the belief that they fitted R32 GT-R dumps. Doh!. One is still sealed in box, the other (pictured below) was opened only to find it was the wrong size: it hasn't been used and the grease under the plastic cap is still there. They cost me $75 ea. After $65 per sensor. Pickup in Sydney is fine and happy to post. Cheers, Lucien.

Hi All, I am after a front pipe for an R32 GT-R. Mine has rusted through. Obviously prefer something aftermarket, but if you have a stocker in good condition, say so. Only requirement is that it must fit the stock dumps/cat, and I would prefer it had a flex joint in the pipe. Cheers, Lucien.

Gav, I was not aware that there was a block "power flush": how exactly does that work? Most times I have seen power flushed referred to in regards to radiators and the cooling system it has meant the end caps being taken off the radiator, and some sort of cleaning device inserted into the radiator. As for why I drained from the block plug rather than cycling water: well, I had never tried to drop the coolant from the block before so I didn't know how hard it would be Having done it once, I think I could probably do it much faster a second time. Lucien.

To answer your questions: * It involves sticking the radiator in a water tank and having an air hose stuck in the bottom outlet. Air is then pumped through (in the reverse direction) at high pressure. * Yup, unless you would prefer to submerge the car * Removing the radiator is very easy: probably a 5 minute job for someone who has done it before. Putting it back and replenishing the coolant is far more time consuming (but very easy to do) because you have to cycle the car, then wait for it to cool. * No idea on the "best" place: its bread and butter type stuff for radiator shops, so just ring around for a good price. My write up is here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=67730 Lucien.

Can you explain that a bit? My clutch is sqeaking at the moment, and has for a couple of weeks. Sometimes first gear is hard to engage... Haven't had time to check if its internal or external, but I am guessing external. Lucien.

Slightly off topic, but which extractors/manifold did you buy? Lucien.

Check your sparkies. LW.

Start them buy hand so you don't cross thread them, then just use a ring spanner with the ole' two nuts-tightened-against-each-other trick until the thread disappears in to the head. Edit: or do you mean for the nuts that hold the manifold to the studs? LW.

http://page2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b58495384 LW.

No offence dude, but that tells me nothing. I was after specific details as to which loose pipe caused the sound. LW.

:werd: Given your proximity to Japan, surely it makes more sense ordering from there...? If language is a barrier, I'm sure one of the numerous auction agents/retailers can probably help you. LW.

They are the standard "pov pack" indicators, and I would guess the standard GTS/4/t lights (bit hard to tell from that distance/angle). Do you mean they light up the road well on high beam, or low beam? LW.

Don't just drill a hole with any old drill bit: go to the hardware store and you can buy easy out "kits" which include a cobalt drill bit (IIRC). LW.

You want some spiral easy outs. Take a stud with you to the hardware store and get the biggest easy out you can. Your going to have to be very careful, but its not an uncommon problem. If you can get it out with the easy out, then you have a real problem. LW.

Is it black, or grey? Where is it coming from: exhaust tip or engine bay? When I replaced the exahust manifold, turbo-to-dump, turbo-to-manfold, and dump-to-front gaskets my R32 GT-R was pumping grey smoke like something was on fire After about 30 minutes of idleing, the gaskets finally started to seal and the smoke disappeared. The idle was a bit high, but was fine otherwise. I had to replace my sparkies the next day as they became fouled, I assume from a combination of (normally) rich running plus screwed A/F ratios due to the exhaust leak, and the 30 minutes it took for things to seal up. Lucien.

cattivo_69: As BHDave said, a decent turbo shop can get that gasket. daler32: how much labour were you charged (just out of interest)? The copper washer suggestion is interesting: I wouldn't have thought they were necessary given the purpose of the nuts is merely to hold the manifold in place against the gaskets. Usually you use copper washers for things like the oil/water lines on the turbos where the washer performs the role of a gasket (because copper is soft and compresses). There is also the issue of differing expansion rates, but its probably not a problem on something as small as a copper washer. Interesting nonetheless. Edit: I have also found some Repcos to be next to useless (and usually more expensive than other auto shops) Lucien.

I replaced the exhaust manifold studs on my RB26 last weekend. They are cheap and easy to get through Nissan: as SteveL said they are about $3 a pop. Lucien.

You drive an R32, right? It should be pretty obvious: the stockers are shockingly bad at like, you know, lighting the road IIRC the N1s have better illumination. LW.

Can someone confirm these are fine for RB26s? Lucien.

What's the deal with the exhaust on the right one? It looks tiny. LW.