lwells

Be very careful with what you order/buy/eat. Always read the ingredients and nutrional information. This is particularly true of food labelled as diet, or more suspiciously, "no fat", "no sugar", etc. Whilst its great there is more emphasis on low fat foods, that all comes to naught if the foodstuff is full of sugar; this is why lollies aren't 'good for you' even though they often have low or no fat. The reverse is also true: i.e. just because something is low in sugar doesn't mean it isn't crammed full of fat. Advertisers are obviously going to focus on the positives of their products, so again, read all the information available. You'll be suprised at the variation. Just as an example of the top of my head, Yoplait No Fat yoghurt has no fat (well, less than 1%) and is about 45-50 calories per 100g; some competing no fat yoghurts have 3-to-4 times the amount of calories. Also be extremely careful with McDonalds / Subway / etc. Subway's ads give the apperience that all their food is about low-fat, low-suger, wholesome goodness. If you actually check out their nutrional information you'll be suprised just how full of fat, sugar and salt some of their food is: Subway nutrional info (select australia or download the PDF version). Compare the Italian BMT with one of the subs with 6 grams of fat or less. You're looking about between 3-4 more fat in the Italian BMT and 5-8 times the amount of saturated fats. Its calorific content and salt levels are about 1.5 times greater than most of the 6 gram subs. Having said all of that, don't deny yourself some pleasures as you're more likely to drop off a "diet" (I hate that word), although personally I find it easier to deny myself treats than to try and control my intake of them I also think you can got OTT on the eating programmes: every month there seems to be a new 'don't eat X, its bad for you, eat Y instead' campaign be it red meat, omega 3, etc, etc. I frequently hear new gym members being sworn of carbohydrates as if it would kill them; screw that, I eat pasta, rice and potatos all the time and most people whinge I'm too thin Its all about moderation and balance.

There is nothing about the mines ecu that means a car will run poorly (or well) just like a PowerFC or any aftermarket reprogrammable ecu; its all down to the tune. If there is a problem with the mines ecu, its that there are very few tuners outside of Japan (and particularly Mines) that have a way to reprogram it, so you tend to be stuck with whatever tune was last performed in Japan. Given the fuel differences, that can be a problem. gazza750: The safest (and cheapest) thing to do for the time being is to whack it on a dyno and check the air/fuel ratios. Once you have those you will have a much better idea of the suitability of the tune and whether its necessary to change the ECU straight away (i.e. if you discover its running lean and might damage the engine) or can put it off for awhile.

Yes, they look very nice. I will be in Japan in about a fortnight and I am tempted to buy one and try and cart it back somehow (wonder if it will pass as hand luggage? ). I'm still suprised that noone locally has made one or a replacement lip.... Whilst the overall market might not be huge, about every second R32 I've seen needs one I've been meaning to contact Nissan for prices on a bunch of parts, but my computer is being a bastard so FAST isn't working. Just waiting to borrow the family laptop when I have a few minutes....

I'm sure its designed for that as well, but remember it also protects all the belts (fan, aircon, etc) and other bits and pieces. Its obviously not going to stop a brick, but it will stop road gravel getting in easily. Either way, it needs replacing.

Yes, counts are a known issue. Missing images are not. So would you like a throat lozenge?

I know Topstage makes them because he has advertised them on here (there is also someone selling one they bought from Topstage at the moment); he's made version for various cars for ages and advertises on NissanSilvia. Search in the for sale section (sorry, CBF'ed ATM to find his thread). As I said before, the Topstage unit is a lip and undertray in one. The lip is considerably lower than the OEM one (something like 20-30mm), and in my humble opinion (and its only *my* opinion; this isn't a comment on the quality of the work or an attack on people wanting/liking the Topstage lip) looks silly because its so much lower than the rest of the car (and, again as I mentioned, I already have issues with scraping the lip on driveways at stock height).

Because I know kungfu. Seriously, online translators are you friend.

Remember to check the gaps even on pregapped plugs (e.g. "bcpr6es-11": the "11" notes its gaped to 1.1mm) as they can be off in my experience. A feeler gauge will cost you next to nothing.

If I recall correctly, the workshop manual makes some reference to removing the passenger and centre aircon vents: don't bother whilst the dash dash is in the car (if your vents are looking a bit used, sticking a screwdriver in is more likely to bust them than anything else). It might also be an idea to mark where the steering wheel is in relation to the centre spline if you have a aftermarket wheel (the OEM has a small mark on it). I would also mark where the HICAS ring (its the white ring behind the steering wheel with two big prongs) is as its quite easy to knock and if you don't have an OEM wheel lying about (or have removed the boss from your aftermarket steering wheel), it can be a pain to line up correctly.

My gallery exists, but is missing about 70% of the images. Currently it has 9 images (but thinks it only has 1, hence it keeps saying its "Showing 9 of 1". he ). http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...album&album=244

I don't think Nathan accepts air or business cards in exchange for services, and that's about all there is in the wallet ATM C'mon, some has to have done this. You can't all be cheque book racers like Richard

Great, as always. Thanks Cowie165: Thanks also Ghostrider: No worries.

I wasn't sure if this should be here or in the 'Drivetrain and transmission' forum, but I figure its probably more suspension related I've got my eye on a set of those Noltec subframe bushes in the group buy section for my R32 GT-R. As far as I am aware my standard bushes aren't leaking, however people seem to be of the opinion that subframe bushes are likely over-the-hill by age 15 or so. Given the group buy price it seems like a worthwhile purchase/upgrade. However, I am a little concerned about how difficult (or otherwise) it is to drop the subframe. I've done some searching but not really come up with any (long winded) explanation as to how its done and what's involved. So is there anyone out there that has dropped their GT-R's subframe and can provide some insight? Is it an easy enough job for those who twirl their own spanners? Any special equipment required? Cheers, Lucien.

Nath at Grey Imports. Don't quote that as gospel though, that's just what I was told during a casual conversation (ie. "about $400").

Sigh. Assumptions are bad My brake lines aren't broken, however I am thinking of replacing them with braided lines and reconditioning the calipers. Obviously I will have to break the seal of hydraulic system to do so and some air will get in (I never said otherwise!?). I could try and minimise fluid lose and air intake by plugging the system if there is a sufficient benefit (ie. it will be significantly easier to repressurise and bleed the system and/or some damage can occur to parts of the system if they dry, like seals for instance). However, if there is no damage to be done and its just a question of taking longer to bleed when I refill the system, it seems to me it would be alot easier to replace hoses without fluid gushing everywhere so I should just dump it all. cowie165: cheers

Wow, thanks for your helpful and insightful post. Its so great that you have such a sharing attitude. My question, in case it wasn't obvious enough, was not why you shouldn't let it drop when just replacing the fluid, but was asking whether its necessary or desirable to keep fluid in the system when replacing parts of the system (ie. hoses or R+R'ing the brake calipers). If you don't want to decend from your ivory tower and inform others, that's fine, but don't try and belittle other people because you come across as a total spanker.

The easier (if more expensive and less DIY) way: http://www.speedbleeder.com/ Everyone always says not to let the fluid in the master cylinder drop below half. Is this to protect the seals in the cylinder, or just to stop (a large volume of) air entering the system? How are you meant to change the brake/clutch lines without emptying the fluid from the cylinder? (Edit: And thinking about it, what about if you remove a caliper? Do you plug the line somehow so it doesn't bleed out?)

For the record, on a R32 GT-R its about $400 if the water pump needs replacing (and possibly more if any of the tensioners/guides are worn). My car is finally getting its belt changed this coming friday; I'll be able to sleep that little bit easier

Bumpity boo....

Well obviously don't replace the O2 sensors unless they are malfunctioning: you can test with a PowerFC, a consult cable or manually.

Yeah, the search form doesn't like three letter words even when using a wildcard; you're better off searching for related terms (e.g. "petrol" or "petroleum", etc). Again, see the threads I linked -- particularly the posts from Sydneykid -- for a good start.

I've used Allan a couple of time and think he's a great guy. Honestly I can't comment on the quality of an install in the same way Chris might (ie. as a fellow professional installer), but what I can say is that he always tries to find the best solution for your needs (even if that means less money for him) and when he does personal jobs (as opposed to contract jobs where he is told to install quickly) he spends a lot of time on the install. The last one he did for me about a month ago he spent 6 hours straight (arrived 10PM; left at 4PM) on the install. Poor fellow, hope he has a good chiropractor Allen Jong Maxi Security 0419 988 679

There are some excellent (what a suprise.. lol) posts by Sydneykid on the economics and problems of running a Skyline on LPG: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=77832 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=65216

You didn't search very well http://www.pcug.org.au/~jdeakins/facts.html PM "GTaaargh" and ask if he has the NGK part numbers (and a source) for the front and rear as he has been in touch with a tech at NGK. Otherwise, now is a good time to become an SAU member and take advantage of discounted Nissan parts. Or buy Ash's O2 sensors.

Having just seen this, I would also like to know if the R32 group buy is still open... Also, has someone somewhere written a guide as to how to actually do the install? I mean I have read the posts in here about just cutting out the old ones, but I wouldn't mind more detailed instructions so I can get an idea of how hard it is to get to the 'cut out and replace' stage