lwells

SteveL: by down pipe I assume you mean the turbo dump pipe..? Do I need new gaskets or anything (if the old ones are A-OK)? No hoist here unfortunately, but that's never a problem with a little persistence It sounds like dumping the coolant from the block is a PITA. What I might do is just dump the coolant from the radiator first, then remove it so I can drop it off at the radiator place, come home and then do the block... otherwise the radiator place might be closed by the time I finish (judging from your description of how hard it is to get to the block drain plug) See any problems with this method? Finally, any thoughts on my second question regarding the ignition being set to ON? Jordan: Thank you, but I really do believe in doing things properly which means the radiator has to come out to go to a radiator shop to be flushed. By the way, you really should use demineralised water, not that crap that comes out of our taps that's called "water" . Lucien.

GotBoost: I am planning to completely remove the radiator to have it flushed, so I want to dump the water completely: the quickest (and perhaps most thorough) is to use the drain hole on the block, hence my question The other question I have: in Step 1 (and to fill, Step 4) is says to turn the ignition to the ON position. Do you just do that, adjust the temperature and then turn it to OFF, or do you leave it at the ON position during the entire flush procedure? Cheers Lucien.

Just a quick question re: doing this on an RB26DETT. According to the man page that Greg posted it says you have to remove the "exhaust front tube". Is the man page referring to the front pipes, dump pipes, or what? Is it correct that it *has* to be removed, or is there a better way to go about it? Cheers guys, Lucien.

Hi Guys, I am planning to finally get the radiator on my R32 GT-R flushed this weekend if I can manage to wake up early saturday to remove the radiator (not an early riser ). Does anyone have any tips for the removal of the radiator? Any tips in addition to the instructions in the workshop manual? Likewise, any tips for dropping the coolant out of the block? Cheers, Lucien.

nedb: the recommended ranges are the workshop manual section I linked above. Its only about a 600kbyte download so I suggest you grab it Lucien.

It was a tongue-in-cheek comment, hence the smiley LW.

Fatz.. you're a legend :headbang: LW.

That is one sexy sexy biatch. Can I borrow her? Pretty please ? Lucien.

I think its died again LW.

I only run extra extra virgin in mine. LW.

So, have the changes actually been Gazetted yet or what? LW.

If you don't mind chirping the wheels every time you take off Seriously, if you think about the design of BB clutches you can see why they are just not a good idea for the street. Sure some are better than others -- apparently the centre spring can have some impact on the ability to slip them -- but at the end of the day they were not designed for slipping so the more you slip the more you wear them out at an excessive rate. IMHO you are better spending your money on something else, especially since you are hardly pushing out massive HP. LW.

Ha, says who? There is no doubt Redline is good, but who says its any better the Amsoil, Royal Purple, or any of the other eccletic brands (let alone something like Castrol Formula R)? LW.

I assume it was a private sale, so the OFT won't be interested. I would also advise against a newspaper ad: the last thing you want is a lawsuit for slander, particularly if his name is tied to his business. LW.

Brass button clutch = bad idea. You are not meant to slip the clutch with a BB, which means they are next to unstreetable IMHO and only really good on a track (be that racing or drag). Given you drive your car on the street -- and if I remember correctly, want to do a little bit of dori dori -- you want something you can slip. LW.

... but not with the expectation that he would drive it into the ground. As I said, if you have a "lawyer friend" (ie. someone who can give you some legal advice/help without charging the earth) it might be worth drafting a letter with a few (nicely worded) threats. I agree with Oosh that the chances of anything happening are low, but given a RB26 rebuild is $5K+, we aren't talking about lunch money here. LW.

If someone damaged your property -- given you had already paid for the car -- they should be liable for the damage. LW.

I'm suprised your car even goes given your problems. Keep soldiering, your due for a break in your bad luck soon (as opposed to a break in your car!). LW.

Adz, Still waiting to here from you about when you might get to send the parts off... Lucien.

May as well link this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=66729 -- why not to use Penrite LW.

My webserver is down at the moment. Hopefully back up soonish. LW.

Well, you could argue that the item was not delivered in the condition in which it was purchased (according to the report Demon had done). Might be worth a talk to a lawyer friend if you have one: see if they can draft a letter on your behalf to the other party. Legal letters have a habit of illiciting a response. It might be a wasted effort, but what is there to loose? LW.

Have you thought of contacting the police given that the condition of the car did not match the description (eg. shagged tyre, loose space saver, b0rked engine). I doubt there is much they can do, but even if they just speak to Mr En One it may give him enough of a jolt to become a bit more helpful. Good luck: hope it works out. Lucien. PS. I would leave a negative Trader Rating too.

I got bombed with email this morning from SAU LW.

Inner west (Leichhardt to be specific), or Wollongong. LW.