skyla

GTS4WD thanks for the advise, it's always good to compare notes with others, Sounds like you run into exactly the same issues as me, slow on the straights and reasonably quick in the corners. The problem I run into is I catch up to people in the corners and get stuck behind them cause the car lacks the balls to get past on the straight I forgot to add that I use dunlop semi slick at trackdays, along with dot 5.1 brake fluid, I ran into fade issues on my first trackday 5 years ago, after that I've always run dot 5.1 and never had a problem since. Yeah, it does have a tendency to get rather sideways at times. But is kinda expected of a skyline rally car and looks pretty cool too. Hmmm that new motor you are building has me worried, think it might be time I get a little more serious with my whale if I intend to keep up with you.

Just curious to see how many of you try your hand on the racing circuit and how you have set your car up. I've got a R33 GTS25 sedan, that I've slowly built up over the years with circuit and hill climbs in mind, the basic power mods have been done air filter, extractors, exhaust, and computer, on the handling side I've gone with a bilstein/king combo suspension all round, front and rear strut braces, front and rear adjustable whiteline sway bars, adjustable caster rods, and nolathane bushes. Brake calipers and rotors are still factory although I've upgraded to mintex 1166 race pads. For the drive train I've upgraded to a LSD and invested in a 4.8kg toda flywheel and paired that up with an organic heavy duty clutch. Other things I've done is replaced the drivers seat with a fixed back racetech seat and fitted a 4 point race harness, for weight reduction I've removed the air conditioning, replaced the bonnet with a alloy GTR bonnet and removed part of the interior. It will never be a competitive car as it's lacks the power on the straights, but on the corners the car can usually hold it's own. So whats your circuit set up like?

So how long before the engine will be built and ready to race? have you made any decisions in regards to the ecu?

I'd be interested to see some of those before and after dyno results, would be good to see where the gains are made

wow this thread took and unexpected turn, but yeah, most things are possible with the right know how and money. The good thing about cars is the way we can modify them to suit our own specific needs and taste, for the past 8 years I've owned a R33 GTS25 sedan, it's nothing overly special to look at and it's slow as in a straight line, (but I love the car to bit's) and like Cara, I've spent a heap of money on it over the years building it up to the way I want it. People ask why waste time and money on a GTS25 sedan when you could have had a modded GTS25T coupe for the same money and it would be heaps quicker? of course they are right, but for me it goes a bit deeper than that, why should I be like everyone else?, sure boost is fun, and it sure does have it's advantages, but it's so common, whats wrong with been a little different, just imagine how boaring things would be if we were all the same. I guess what I'm trying to say is, you do what makes you feel happy, don't get defensive or discouraged when sceptics challenge you, life too short waste time arguing what is or what isn't possible, when you have already proven that it can be done. Best wishes for the future modifications Cara

I've got the same sort of set up on my car, I've found the new intake does make a difference and gives you a noticeable gain in the top end and it sounds great, although it comes at a cost, bottom end torque is reduced and fuel economy is also reduced.

It is tempting... might be the only way I have a chance of keeping up with you when you get that new engine built for your rally car . There's no real major problems, it seems to perform ok, I'm basing my statement on the dyno print out, for it to look like it does, there's definately something that needs a bit of attention. But in saying that we already know a big part of the problem is the 95 octane fuel that was in the tank at the time when it was dyno tuned (It's funny how cars always break down just after you have fulled them up), because we still have the factory ecu we were limited on how the car could be tuned, all the tuning was done with the fuel pressure regulator and retarding the timing, think it's only running around 7-8 degrees of timing, to stop the engine from detonating on the crappy fuel we are having to run the car majorly rich (10.5:1 AFR), we are hoping that this issue can be sorted out with some decent fuel and ecu that can have the fuel and ignition maps tuned to suit From engine stats I've seen in the past, the RB20DE does have a different inlet cam (232 duration and 7.3mm lift) the RB20DET has a bigger inlet cam (240 duration and 7.8mm lift) but the exhaust cams are the same. I gota agree with you we expected the turbo to spool up much sooner, every one we had talked to emphasiesed how quickly the turbo would started boosting, we were quite disapointed at first with the lack of response but the top end power is just so much better than it use to be . The whole set up has completely changed since the first dyno, everything was pretty much stock back then, the only mods it had was the K&N pod filter and a 2 3/4" cat back exhaust system.

full boost comes in quite at around 3700rpm, it's a totally different sort of power, it's a much smoother than what it use to be. it's not the sort of boost that throws you back in your seat lol

A couple of months ago and after 357,000km our old R32 GTS-T ran into engine problems. After failing to find a good low km RB20DET enigne that had a warranty, we decided to make use of the RB20DE engine I had and turbo it. Luckily I came across this awesome thread which helped answer a whole heap of questions. Although there was very little that related to a RB20DE+T we thought we'd go ahead anyway. Things didn't go quite as we planned and ended up spending a whole lot more than first expected but we are relitivly happy with the results 175rwkw, and there's still room for improvement as we are still using a stock RB20DET ecu, which we are going to upgrde to an after market ecu when funds permit (this should sort out some of the problems we are having). The list of mods Rb20DET injectors turbo smart BOV RB25DET turbo 3" exhaust from the turbo back custom 3" dump pipe stainless exhaust manifold (low mount) K&N pod filter 450x300x76mm front mount intercooler Sard fuel pressure regulator walbro fuel pump Here's the dyno sheet, the red was taken a couple of years ago when it still had the RB20DET engine. The blue is what the power is now with the RB20DE+T running 9 psi

yep I know, it was set up like this by my mechanic and it was set up wrong, it does absolutly nothing the way it is set up, I'm looking into getting a bigger Catch can (2L) that is suitable for motorsport use, and getting it installed properly so nothing is vented back into the intake, but the problem is to find a place that has enough room for it to be mounted.

righto here are a couple of pics, nothing fancy under the hood might look a bit weird with the heater wrap around the intake pipe, but ithere's a practical reason for it, it stops the heat soak issues I was having.

since the original post on this topic, I have done this modification to my R33, it now has a 3" mandrel bent intake pipe. I can't say you will loose power but you will loose a bit of low end torque and fuel economy, but on the up side the intake noise sounds awesome at high revs

What grade oil are you using? I had a problem after an oil change a few years back, my car didn't like the new oil, I changed the oil as soon as I could and the problem went away, but in my cars case the car was just plan slugish through the rev range. Has the fuel filter been changed since you've had the car? If the fuel filter is dirty and clogged up that can make the car feel gutless

I had a button clutch in my car for the past 5 years, great for the track but not the best for a daily driver they take a lot of getting use to, and in bumper to bumper traffic jams they can lead to some pretty embarising bunny hops and stalling issues, and they chew the crap out of your flywheel and pressure plate too, I've got pics if you would like to see. I've just recently changed to an organic and H/D pressure plate and toda flywheel it's so much more drivable on the street, guess I'll find out what it's like on the track in the weekend lol

as you refered to "was" in your question are you meaning the factory 9 bolt flywheel? think they are just over 9kg, but the newly installed toda light weight flywheel is 4.8kg

Since my last post on this thread I have had my toda light weight flywheel with a organic clutch and heavy duty pressure plate installed. Gota say I'm impressed with the results the car feels so much more responsive, and is much faster over taking and coming out of the corners, it revs up much quicker. I was concerned about how the car would react on the hills but I was surprised there's very little difference as long as you keep constant pressure on the throttle, if you reduce the pressure on the throttle the car will slow down much quicker than it use to going up hills, but a quick down shift and stand on the go pedal and the car moves along quite nicely. I haven't tested it on the race track yet, but will next month.

It was on track 1 at taupo http://www.tauporacetrack.co.nz/pdf/track_1.pdf there was a couple of places were there was noticable decline in braking capacity, it happens on areas where you rapidly decrease your speed eg from 180kmh to 80kmh to make the corner. The car has standard rotors and dot 5.1 brake fluid Mintex is a fairly well known product here in NZ, here's a link http://www.proven-products.co.uk/mintex_c-tech_pads.htm with a little info about some of the compounds

I think part of the problem is that I've heard so many good things about the hawk, that I was expecting more. What we've found is that after a few hot laps they loose there initial bite and the way the pedal feels dramatically changes, we are having to stand on on the pedal alot harder to get the sort of stopping power we want. And the fact that I'm also comparing them to the more expensive mintex pads which work better with a bit of heat.

I know this is a bit of an old thread, but I've finially got my $h*t together and had my new organic clutch and 4.8kg flywheel installed. I haven't noticed any adverse effects to driveability, it's a dream to drive now and so much more responsive in the low gears, although I don't know if I'm imagining things but there seems to be a flat spot higher up in the rev range. Anyway can't wait to get it onto the track and give it a real good work out.

I've got Hawk HP+ on our R32 GTS-T, I've found them fine on the street other than the nosie, but I've been a little dissapointed with there performance on the track. The pads I run on my GTS25 are mintex 1166, I use them both on the road and on the track and found them absolutely fantastic. The only down side is, I have to get pads custom made to suit the standard GTS25 2 pot calipers which is rather expensive

I'm running a grounding kit and a voltage stabilizer on my R33 GTS25, there was't really a noticable difference, all I noticed was the car was a bit easier to start. But when I installed a grounding kit on our old R32 GTS-T there was a noticable difference, the head lights were much brighter, the car acclereated smoother and better, even the stereo sounded better. It seems that the grounding kit works on some cars but not on others

Thanks Eug, I'm fairly happy with the way the new rims look, much more aggressive lol Here's a link to the pics from the last trackday I went to, good range of cars attended from road cars to race cars http://www.colourandlight.co.nz/galleries/...ct07/index.html a friend and I went and did quite well considering we both have N/A skylines (my friend screamin has the white R32 GTS Rally car) we both battled strongly and held our own with some of the more powerful cars. Go the N/A skylines

Good to see that there a few sedans in the mix. Here's my baby, 94 series 1 GTS25 sedan, I've owned it for 7 years and slowly built it up over the years to suit both road and race track. Was auto when I brought it, but converted it to manual. With over 210,000km on the clock the old girl still make reasonable power at 116rwkw and still going strong. Mods to date, K&N pod Custom 3" mandrel bent intake extractors free flow exhaust system GTS Link Bilstein shocks King springs whiteline sway bars front and rear strut braces Nolathane bushes adjustable caster arms LSD 5 puck clutch Good year GSD3 tyres DTM 17" alloys GTR rear wing Factory M spec sedan side skirts So what do you think?

Have to agree with this, no point having a car thats revving it's nuts off, all that you end up doing is making more noise and no extra power. Here's a dyno chart of my car to prove that more revs don't equall more power. The dyno was done in 3rd gear and let go untill red line. Btw my car is running an after market ECU (GTS Link), I've kept red line at the factory limit as my car stops making power at around 6200rpm. If you are wanting more top end power and get the engine reving harder you will need to open it up and replace the standard cams with something a little bigger, the down side of this it gets very expensive very quickly and you will also need to replace the stock ECU.

So speaking hypotheticaly, it would be a good idea to use a short shifter with a flightened flywheel, as the short shifter reduces the amount of throw and allows for quicker gear changers? I'd imagine this would help in keeping revs from dropping to much between changes and loosing too much speed.