skyla

This seems rather weird to me I have a R33 GTS25 series 1, and I've also pulled a part a wrecked R33 GTS25 series 1. Both cars have the drum set up for the hand brake with the rear discs. I've done a brake conversion on a R32 had the same set up as the R33's. If you want to make 100% sure, and you have a few tools jack the car up, remember to use blocks for the front wheels as the hand brake can't be engaged, remove the wheel, remove the two bolts holding the rear caliper and silde if off the disc rear caliper (still leave brake hoses attached) and remove the rear disc and have a look, I'd be pretty surprised if it doesn't have the drum set up for the hand brake.

it was for the rear, but maybe I should of mentioned it was for a R33 GTS25, I would have thought the R33 GTS and GTS25 rear brakes would have been the same. I guess not...

There's a huge difference between the turbo and non turbo boxes in the R33's. The R33 GTS25T box is very strong, where's the R33 GTS 2L box isn't. The Manual gear box in the R33 GTS25 I beleive to be the same as the R32 GTS-T gear box, the only major difference is that the R32 box has a speedo cable where's the R33 is electric.

Yep you can get them redrilled, and they do fit a friend of mine did that on his car, although he had to remove the dust shield. Think he also replace the brake booster and master cylinder as well, think he said that on the standard set up the pedal was a bit low or something.

N/A R33's have two different calipers for the front. The R33 2L GTS has single pot calipers, on the other hand R33 GTS25's have bigger 2 pot calipers on the front.

Yeah but thet red GTS of yours is a bit of a freak (I mean in a good way) and has more power than the rally car, so it doesn't really surprise me that the red ones quicker. Shane do you have any problems with driveability and gear changes with the rally car? Good call hadn't thought of testing things with the G-Tech, will let you know the results when the time comes.

Yep in NZD. It will be a little while before the new flywheel goes into my car, but hope to have it in the car by early next year for a club track day, I hope to give a couple of the turbo boys a bit of a run for there money

I picked it up 2nd hand for $450, here's a link http://www.modyourcar.com.au/product_info....roducts_id=1430 with a bit of info on the new item, they advertise the flywheel as 4.8kg, I've weighed my one a couple of times and I got 4.4kg may be my scales are out???

Now this is a subject I'm very interedsted in, as I've just brought a toda Light weight flywheel (4.4kg) for my R33 GTS25 (not yet installed). The reason I brought it is as I circuit race the car and find the car a little unresponsive when coming out of the corners, seems to take forever to get the heavy beast moving, I thought by installing a lighter flywheel that I might just be able to liven it up a bit. Now reading this post I'm a little concerned that I might have gone too light with the flywheel as I still drive the car on the road. My car is already a little frustrating to drive at low speeds and in traffic thanks to a button clutch. Any idea how the button clutch/ lightweight flywheel combo will be like to drive on the road?

Don't know if any of you guys have used mintex, I've been using mintex 1166 for the past 3 years and can't speak highly enough of them. I have never experienced brake fade on any of the trackdays I have gone to, they are a bit harder on rotors, are noisy and a bit dusty, but the stopping power is awesome once they get a little heat into them, the only problem is they are a bit on expensive side, cost me $300 to get a set custom made for my R33 GTS25. Another brand I have been quite impressed with is "Hawk", I fitted Hawk hp plus to our R32 GTS-T and they bite like crazy from cold. They seem to be a fairly good pad for road use and circuit, once again harder on rotors and noiser than standard pads, cost is getting up there at $230 for a set of front pads

I'm going to disagree with the above post, there isn't any difference in the R33 RB25DE/T head it's self, they are the same has the same cams, lifters and valve springs (according to the R33 engine manual), how ever the above post is correct in saying the injectors and pistons are different. Using The RB25DE pistons in a RB30DE will give you a compression ratio of 10.4:1 - 10.5:1 If using a R33 head you don't have to keep it vct, all you need to do is remove the R33 VCT cam and replace it with the intake cam and cam wheel from a R32 RB20DET, the cam specs for the RB20DET are 240 duration with 7.8mm lift. Simple bolt in job and no more vct.

No sorry keeping it for my Project car

Hey, Don't know if this is going to help much, I have a R33 RB25DE head sitting in my shed just put a set of calipers over the valves and these are the measurements I got, Intake valve 33mm Exhaust valve 29mm If it's any help the cam specs are 240 duration and 7.8 lift

By what you have said it doesn't sound like a timing problem if you have checked everything and it's still lining up, I'm sorry I can't really help too much in the timing department as I haven't really had too much experience with it. I have an engine manual if you would like a copy of the timing info I could email you the pages if it's any help. Jusyt another though have you run a diagnostics check on the ecu and seen if there is any errors showing up? But as you have already said it sound more likely to be a fuel problem, probably a blocked in tank filter or even a dying fuel pump.

Hmm bit of an unusual problem, so I'll ask a heap of questions to try and get a few more clues on where to start looking. Is it possible that the cam belt could have jumped a tooth?. Has the fuel pressure regulator been checked? When were the injectors last cleaned? Have you checked the timing (standard is 15 degrees) What fuel are you using?

Here's a little tip that might help when on a budget, the factory turbo exhaust systems are a bigger bore (2 1/2") than the factory N/A versions if you look around you might be able to find a cheap 2nd hand turbo factory system, slap it on an N/A and instant exhaust upgrade Another thing ECU's are expensive and so is the tuning (I'm running a GTS link in my R33) and don't give you that much more power they just give you a heap of potential later on for more mods.

last I heard it was making about 123rwkw and I beleive he's got his 1/4 mile time down to 15.2

Model: R33 series 1 GTS25 sedan Engine: RB25DE Mods: converted to manual, K&N pod filter, 3" custom intake pipe, CIA, extractors 6,2,1 heat wrapped, 2 1/8" exhaust cat removed, GTS link ecu Power: 117rwkw

R32 RB20DET cam would be the best option, a friend of mine used a set of Tomei R32 RB20DET cams in his R32 GTS25.

I know this is an old thread, but due to questions I have received lately on this topic. You don't need to cut the over hang off (factory rubber bush) , when the pineapple goes on it compresses the factory bush into the subframe, when done up tight the pineapple sits flush.

The ECU (GTS link) I'm using is most commonly used on turbo skylines. I'm not familiar with the Apexi power FC, but from what I have heard are better than the link ecu's. I can't see why they couldn't be used on a N/A car, although better to find someone that knows for sure.

Hmmm, did only putting the 4 pot on the front up set the brake bias, or didn't it make any difference what so ever? My boyfreind thought he would help out with the rear brakes, well they are on and every thing seems to be sweet as, but he totally wasted the rear dust shield. . I guess now I got to find out if a dust shield effects compliance chances, If it does I gota get a new one

Yep it was the stone guard that was stopping the wheel from turning, I attacked it with a hammer and a set of pliers and it did the trick. then every thing bolted up nicely. Found out that the set of calipers I got were from a N/A 300zx they have slightly smaller discs and smaller calipers, than the Type-M's. It has worked out very well we can still use our old mags , didn't think we would be able to. Now for the back brakes the factory discs are heaps smaller than the new two pot ones I have. Umm the factory stone guard is a problem I have bashed the living snot out of it and still it's not playing nice . How did you get around the smaller stone guard problem and get the bigger rear discs to fit?

Thanks for the replys, much appreciated, Predator, thanks for the Tutorial very informative Funny enough the way it had been written down was prety much the way I tried to fit the bigger brakes, it was when the wheel nuts went on that the wheel wouldn't turn, I'll have a good look tomorrow and see if I can see the problem. lol, and yes I did remove the bracelet, so I know thats not the problem. Thanks

Hiya all, I've done a search hoping I might find the answer to to my problem but haven't had any luck. I have a R32 GTS-T (non M-spec), that I have decided will get the bigger M-Spec brakes, I have my new discs, calipers and brake lines ready to be put on. The car already has factory 5 stud hubs, so I thought the conversion would be a simple bolt up job, but this doesn't seem to be the case. After pulling the front brakes off changing the disc over and bolting the new 4 pot caliper into place every thing seemed to be ok until the wheel went on and then it wouldn't turn . The wheel is clearing the caliper so I know thats not the problem, I'm kinda wondering if the hub might be the problem??? Has any one converted their non m-spec R32 GTS-T brakes to the bigger M-Spec ones? what problems did you have and how did you get around them? Do I need to get different hubs to do this conversion, or am I just missing something simple? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated