skyla

Eug, Yeah I'm a bit disapointed with the 117rwkw I was hoping for over 120rwkw, but it is at least a step in the right direction. Yep it's still running the vvt with the link ecu. Al, when the ecu was installed and tuned earlier this year it was set up with different mods to what I have now, when I changed to the custom intake and added the pod filter it obviously changed all the air/fuel ratios and the car needs to go back in for more tuning to correct this. I have been putting it off untill I have got more of my planned mods done, I have cams, throttle body and a few other bit's to be done before it goes back to the tuners.

I Have done this mod, as I said in an earlier post since then I have had a bit of time and experimented around with it, and after a few back to back road tests there is a loss in torque, not a great deal but still noticable. With out getting both systems dynoed It's hard to tell which has the better top end power, but with the custom intake the car has awesome induction noise

Yeah I thought it was a bit funny that they ran the dyno in 3rd, don't know why they did that??? <_< So far the mods that have been done are, exhaust 2 1/2", extractors, K&N pod filter with cold air intake, custom 3" intake pipe from the pod to the trottle body, and running an after market ECU (GTS link).

Just had my car back on the dyno, after my latest lot of mods. Was hoping for a few more kw than the 117rwkw that my car got but at least it was a gain. Dyno was run in 3rd gear. My car seems to running a bit lean through the mid range, so might have to invest in a fuel pressure regulator. And it definatly looks like I need to get some bigger cams or more tuning or something, the power really drops off up the top end. The next mods I'm looking at is installing an electric fan and installing a bigger throttle body. Anyway here's my print out

My partner can make our whale drift, much to my surprise, on dry roads too, scared the crap out of me (boys will be boys!! ). I didn't think it would of had the power to drift, although it has had quite a bit of suspension work done, a button clutch, LSD added, and making 112rwkw.

May be this would be better in the suspension section, but hey what the hell. I've sort a set my car up for road and track work, I've got front and rear strut braces, front and rear white line sway bars with nolathane bushes, king springs and bilstein shocks all round. The car handles very well, almost like it's on rails

The heads appear to be the same, according to the spec sheet.

Thanks Rob82, I'll get the timing checked

factory stats at the flywheel for the different models are below, it's hard to gauge power at the wheels, cause every dyno will read sligthly different R32 RB25DE 132kw R33 RB25DE non type-s 140kw R33 RB25DE type-s 147kw R43 RB25DE 147kw

Different dyno different results, yeah but to me, this looks on the high side of things, although on the same day as my run a SS commodore did 160rwkw, so it's a bit hard to tell.

Hi all, Please excuse my ingorance when it comes to turbo powered cars. Recently my R32 GTS-T, seemed to develop a noticeable flat spot through the mid range, I did the normal things like replace the sparkies and gapped them to 0.8, cleaned the intercooler, and replaced the AFM. Thinking that the problem might have something to do with worn components as my car has done very high kms (270,000) still on the original motor, turbo and gear box. It has always felt a little slugish through the mid range from about 4700rpm to 6000rpm, but I never really paid much attention to it. Recenlty I put a pod filter on the car and the the flat spot had become more noticeable. A couple of people had suggested that it might be running rich, so I put it on the dyno to see what was going on. Strangly enough when on the dyno it didn't miss behave, and from what I can gather from the chart every thing seems to be ok, although I was hoping that someone familiar with turbo powered cars enligthen me if I'm missing something. The car is pretty much stock with only the K&N pod filter and a 2 3/4" exhaust. One thing I did notice looking at the chart was that the boost seems to drop off a bit, is this normal or could there be something wrong? Any advice appreciated. Cheers Rach

thanks for the replies, much appreciated. My next question is, would it be better to keep the vct or get rid of it and get a set of adjustable cam gears? Which would give the better results?

I'm in the market for some new cams, I have been slowly getting parts for my engine, and have started looking for cams. I believe the standards cams for a RB25DE are 240 duration and 7.9mm lift. What sort of profile would be good for a car that is slowly been modified and will be mainly a road car but will be raced on the track every now and then. The local performance shop has suggested I get some 270 duration cams, but I haven't managed to find much info on the subject. Another potential problem is that with the standard hydraulic lifters will only alow an extra 1/2 to 1mm lift before the head has to be modified. Does anyone know much about adding a set of more agressive cams, the pros and cons, what sort of power gains can be achieved? What cam profile would be the best for use on road and track? I have already replaced the standard ecu with a GTS link, so I won't have any problems in that department. Any info greatly appreciated.

According to the the engine manual, the RB20E runs 20 degrees standard.

Do what the others said first, if it's doing playing up after a good service, remove the aac valve and give it a good clean in throttle body cleaner or petrol. It fixed my cars iradic idle problem.

Have spent sometime reading throught this thread, as I have been thinking of changing my current exhaust, to a more straight through system. Currently I have jasma approved system with extractors (6,2,1), 2 1/2" stainless exhaust system with no cat and two very large mufflers (not the straight through sort). I was thinking of putting in a couple of resinators and a straight through type muffler, in the hope that it might improve the flow of exhaust gasses. A friend sent me this article which I found quite an interesting read, looking into the importance of exhaust gas flow and looks into the back pressure thing too.

A friend of mine has built one of these, last dyno he got 137rwkw can't remember the torque figures, he did a 15.2 1/4 mile, meremere NZ. After having a few problems he ditched the VVT and put in a RB20DET intake cam. He has used stock fuel pump and oil pump, but added a adjustable fuel pressure regulator for good measure.

Correct, AFM was removed when I had the GTS link installed, It now runs off a MAP sensor and TPS.

Here's a couple of pics

There was a small gain, the biggest difference was in the way the car sounds.

I have removed the resonator and replaced it with a piece of 3" pipe, on my R33 GTS25, I don't know about the car loosing torque, but without the resonator the induction is quite noisey, when the engine is under load, it kinda screams as it hits 5500rpm. I'll post up a pic tomorrow of the set up I have got.

lol nice Well it looks like this hasn't been done too often, I will post up results when the T/B goes on

Hey guys/gals I have just brought a 80mm throttle body, that I want to fit to my R33 GTS25 as part of an on going project. I realise that I will need to get a plate made up to fit it to the intake manifold, but am unsure what else I will need to get done to get it to work, keeping in mind that I am already running a after market ecu (GTS Link) so hopefully I won't have any issues with reprogramming the ecu. Has any one tried putting a larger throttle body or enlarging the factory T/B on there N/A? and what sort of gains were achieved? Cheers Rach search tags: q45 afm upgrade n/a rb25 rb30 throttle body