skyla

Thanks dude, Big help

Boston, photos would be a great help, Thanks

Hi Guys/gals I'm in the process of trying to fit a set of pineapples to my car, we have undone the sub frame and tryed to fit the pineapples but they don't want to fit. Because of the overhang of the rubber bush that's part of the sub frame, am I able to cut the over hang off? with out effecting anything else. The pic I've attached pic of what I'm talking about and the yellow arrow is pointing to the rubber bit I'd like to remove if possible.

Mainly ignition and air/fuel ratios.

Cool, :thankyou: thanks heaps for the link

Hey all, please don't laugh at me too much with this one. :Oops: I got a set of pineapples that I would like to fit to my R33 GTS25, the problem is I'm not sure where to fit them and my mechanic has never seen them before, and hasn't got much of a clue. I have done a quick search and haven't found the answer to my question. I know there is 2 different settings one for drift and one suitable for drag. I would like to put the pineapples in the drag position, as when I launch the car and start to apply more power the car suffers from axel tramp badly. So if somebody could kindly give me a step by step run down of where and how to install the pineapples, it would be very much appreciated. thanks Rachael

Got my car back from getting it's New link ECU installed and dyno tuned today. Results were pretty much as expected, Got a gain of 7 rwkw and 21Nm of torque. Air/ fuel ratios are at 13:1 and injectors are at 58% of there duty cycle. Peak torque is at 4750rpm and max power is at 5500rpm. I'm a bit concerned with the power hitting it's peak so early in it's rev range and starting drop off quite quickly by 6000rpm. Any idea's on a way that I can get it to hold it's power for a bit longer? Cams??

Stock times are a bit hard to answer as alot depends on the driver and the strip in question specially when it comes to 60ft times. There are so many variables that come into play, I've seen a stock auto sedan 96 GTS25 do 16.8 and a stock 94 GTS25 coupe do 15.8 so if you say somewhere in the middle you should be about right. With a good driver you should get around 2.3 sec 60ft. Hope thats of some help

One of my friends has built himself a RB30DE for his R33 GTS25, He had it on the dyno shortly after he built it it was putting out 130rwkw I can't remember how much torque it had but I think it may have been over 600Nm. He ended up using RB25 pistons and got a compression ratio of 10.5:1. On his first attempt he used RB30 pistons but the compression ratio was to low, to make any sort of decent power while keeping it N/A. He has since done more to it here's a pic of his engine bay

I can't see why you can't use coupe parts for a conversion, we did on our R33 GTS25 sedan. I presume it would be the same for the R32's as the R33's. Every thing was just a case of swapping things over, every thing bolted up nicely, even the coupe drive shaft, and cross member as there was no difference between the sedan and coupe.

If you are just after noise, and not worried about performance a 3" exhaust will make it pretty darn noisy.

No hicas for me, and unfortunatly no extra power either.

Yeah it sounds like it, my mates one also has hicas, and red badges on the front guard insted of blue like mine

Type S, has a few standard extras, LSD, an extra few kw at the fly wheel, a different rear muffler, and a rear sway bar, well my friends one has anyway, and maybe a couple of extra things I have over looked.

As far as I'm aware all the R33 non turbos have the same brakes, but I'm not 100% sure though. I have a R33 GTS25 non type s and my brakes are 155mm long from tip to tip and have a width of 50mm. So I hope thats of some help.

I'm fully aware that a lightly modded turbo will out perform a modded N/A. I'm lucky enough to own 2 skylines one a lightly modded turbo R32 GTS-T and the other is my R33 N/A, and yes in a straight line the GTS-T is quicker although at top end the GTS25 holds it's own and there's nothing in it and will slowly pull away from the R32. The truth of he matter is that I perfer the N/A over the turbo, and it's different, not many people choose to work a N/A, and I'm curious to see what sort of results I will be able to get, even though I know it's going to be expensive, and have relatively small gains for the amount of money spent. As I said in one of my earlier posts I'm buying the ecu as a base to work on for future mods. I have looked into doing a RB30 bottom end but have decided against it, and stay with the lighter RB25, and see what i can get out of it, One of my friends has put a RB30 bottom end into his car and last dyno he got 130rwkw and over 600Nm of tourque with extractors, pod filter, a 3" exhust system, and mine is currently at 112rwkw and 475Nm of torque. Thanks for the advice on the AFM I have since done a search and found some info on the subject, and will most definitely keep the AFM. When the Link ECU goes in I'll post up the results if people are interested. thanks Rach

As far as I know they need to be tuned for the individual car, to get the best out of them. The ECU I'm getting is a plug in sort and will be set up first using a laptop and then fine tuned on the dyno. The guys selling the ECU to me, said that I should gain around 6-10kw with the addition of a tuned ECU on the dyno. The ECU I'm buying gives me the option of removing the AFM, do you think this would be a good idea? Any one had any experince with a car with the AFM removed? Yeah I think RB30-power is right in saying the A/F mixtures are rich, I have a A/F ratio gauge installed and it's always reads towards the richer end of the scale.

hiya all, I have a R33 series1 GTS25 sedan which I have been slowly been working on over the last couple of years. so far things that have been done, K & N panel air filter extractors 2 1/2" exhaust manual conversion nasty heavy duty clutch plate (you can't slip this one) Installed a LSD Front strut brace king springs bilstein shocks white line rear sway bar nolathane sway bar bushes ROH adrenalin alloys (shadow chrome) Mintex road/race brake pads GTR rear spoiler, side skirts and end caps I have a 400R front spoiler too, which I haven't had painted yet. So the time has come and I have the erge to spend some more money on my baby. I have looked into many different options to try and and gain a few extra kw. I thought after market cams, a fuel pressure regulator and a safc would be the way to go, but found that the standard ecu would be the limiting factor in trying to get any decent sort of gains from the cams, and giving my stock cams a mild regrind wouldn't really yeild any noticable power gains. So this got me thinking what if I spent my money on a new after market ecu, and use it as a base to work on in the future. After much thought this is the way I have decided to go, so I have ordered a new ecu (R33 GTS Link) which I should arrive in mid January, and hopefully will go into the car in late febuary. So have any of you guys/gals replaced the ECU in your N/A skyline? If you have, did it make much difference?

I finally fitted the rear sway bar (whiteline) today, it was a simple bolt up job, and has made the car much more stable with high speed cornering. Greg, just out of interest what sizes of the front and rear GTR sway bars?

It's your choice on what you choose to do with your car, each has it's advantages, but if you are after power turbo is the way to go. I'm luckly enough to own 2 skylines one turbo and the other N/A. Believe it or not I prefer my N/A over my turbo, even though it's not as fast. Things you can do to help improve the power of an N/A car are high flow air filter either the likes of a HKS panel or K&N panel or a pod filter with a cold air box, extractors, 2 1/2" exhaust system, apexi safc to control the air fuel ratios, or even a Greaddy emanage, these will get the car going nicely and will improve mid range and top end power. You can get more power out of a N/A, but after the mods I have sugested things start getting more expensive and the gains are pretty small for the amount of money you spend.

the things I have done to my car are, K&N panel air filter, extractors, and 2 1/2" exhaust. this gets it going quite well for mid to top end power. Just remember that if you choose to go for a bigger exhaust you will sacrific a little lower end torque for top end power. Other things to look at are apexi sfac, and a lighter fly wheel will help in getting you off the mark quicker.

Just curious, what sort of torque did you get when you did the dyno?

156hp is still pretty darn good effort from a 2L N/A, my GTS25 has only got 150rwhp (112rwkw), and thats with extractors, custom 2 1/2" stainless exhaust and K&N air filter.

I guess it should be, but the reason I posted it here was due to the car in question being an N/A, and it seems that most people on the forums that race on the track own Turbo powered cars. So I felt that it would be easier to get comparisons from other N/A skyline owners. Sorry for any inconvenience

They reduce body roll when cornering, giving more stability. As you go around bends corners etc, one side of the car will be under greater load, and the inner wheel will be under more pressure and the outer wheel will lift slightly. By adding a larger sway bar this should reduce this effect and even out the pressure on both wheels helping to eliminate body roll, and giving more traction to the outer wheel. If anyone can explain it a bit clearer please do so.