skyla

Thanks for the replys, much appreciated. Strutto; thanks for the offer, but the one I'm interested in was ment for a R33 GTS25T, (It's quite a bit thicker than standard aparently) the guy got it specially imported in for his car, and then crashed the car before the sway bar was fitted. So his loss will hopefull be my gain if I can get it to fit. So do all R33 coupes have rear sway bars, and the N/A sedans don't? Or was it an option for all the N/A's?

Hi guys/gals, Just in the process of doing a bit more suspension work to my R33 series 1 GTS25 sedan as I intend to do more track racing, since I have already done the shocks, springs and front strut brace, I thought the next logical thing to do is upgrade the sway bars, the front will be easy enough, but the car I own doesn't have a rear sway bar. Is this normal on the GTS25 sedans or is my car some sort of freak? If someone owns a R33 GTS25 sedan, could you please tell me if yours has a rear sawy bar. And do the R33 GTS25 coupes have a rear sway bar? Any info would be appreciated, thanks

A guy I know got a 13 rwkw gain when he got extractors and a 2 1/2" exhaust system on his R34 . I have extracors and 2 1/2" exhaust system, on my R33 GTS25. I would totally recommend them, the car pulls very well through mid range and keeps pulling till red line.

I got the shocks back today and I'm not very impressed with what was done. The springs are now captive, which is good. But I never had to use spring compressors to assemble the shocks to get them back on the car. And there is basically no tention on them. On test driving the car it felt a bit slopply in the rear, which is very disapointing considering I want use the car on the track. I think the only way to solve this problem is to get rid of the super low kings and change to low kings.

thanks for the replys, much appreciated. I went back to the place where I had brought the shocks from and had them checked out, the shocks and the springs are the correct ones. The shocks have to be sent away and get pulled apart to put some sort of spacer in them to sorten them some how. Once I get them back from the shop, I'll post up the results if anyones interested.

Hi all, I'm just in the process of replaceing my worn out factory shocks with a set of bilsteins. I have reassembled the unit and the springs (king super low) are very loose and can be moved around. There is no tention on them what so ever. I Have has it sugested that I get the shocks shortened, Please excuse my ignorance but I'm not sure what is ment by that. So if someone could explain what they mean by shortening shocks?, I'd be very greatful. Also how do they shorten them? thanks Rachael

Hiya, I'm looking to getting some R34 seats, and putting them into My R33. I originally brought after market sports seats and ran into huge problems with trying to get them fitted. I gave up in the end and sold them. I have managed to track down some R34 GTT seats for a good price, and would like to know if they would fit into a R33 with out major modifications. would it be as simple as swapping the rails over? :confused: Any advice would be appreciated. Rachael

This is my 4dr, I don't know what the kit is, it was on the car when I got it. I also have a 400R front bar that's just been painted, in the next week or so it should be on the car.

I tend to agree with the guys who say a turbo silvia will beat a NA skyline. But when you have N/A silvia vs N/A skyline there's not much in it. Have a look here compare a few times and you just might change your mind.

I've been to the drags a number of times and seen N/A skylines and silvia's drag, to be honest there's not that much difference in the times. The silvia's (SR20 DE) will do consistant low 16's for the 1/4, I have seen a couple of guys get them into the high 15's. The Rb25DE guys had times ranging from mid 15's to high 16's. But from what I have seen is the silvia seems to get off the mark quicker and the RB engines have better top end power.

Last time I had mine on the dyno I got 112kw, that was a 4th gear dyno. Mods to my car K&N panel filter, 2 1/2" exhaust, extractors. When it was auto it got 100kw. Other NA's on the same dyno run between 94 to 105kw, with similar mods.

I've just brought a G-Tech, a week ago haven't played too much yet the 0-100 times haven't been too good though been getting mid 8's. But mines a heavy 4dr and thats with tool boxes, spare tyre, and the sub box still in the boot. For the 1/4 mine has done 16 flat at the strip, on the G-Tech it's done 16.1.

Got my 94 R33 GTS25 with 102,00km on the clock, I've had it 3 years, nows it's done 164,000. No real major problems, had to replace the radius bushes 6 months after buying it.

gota love the 4drs, heres a pic of mine

Just as a matter of interest how many of the cars that were dynoed were auto and how many are manual?

Is a locking diff the same as LSD?

Most times when you replace the clutch, you buy a clutch kit, they usualy come with clutch plate, thrust bearing and a pressure plate included in the box. Is the car you are looking at a GTS or GTS-T?

I have been told many different service intervals, but most of the trans service places I have talked to in the past have recomended once a year or every 20,000 km to keep it in good condition.

A R33 25 should beat the R32 GTS off the mark thats assuming both are stock. There is a bit of difference in performance, manual tends to be a bit quicker, although the auto tends to have more top end speed. I have raced my R33 GTS25 both auto and manual, I managed a 16.4 pass over the 1/4 when auto, and after the conversion I ran a 16.0 ET. I have found the manual to be quicker off the mark, and trough the rev range, but have to watch for alot more wheel spin. Also the manual tends to have a few more kw at the rear wheels, than it's auto counterpart. We gained 16rwkw when we did the conversion.

The R33 GTS25 is quicker than the R32 GTS. Last year at the drags a guy with a R32 2LGTS manual was running high 16,s for the 1/4 mile, that was with air filter,extractors and 2 1/4" exhaust. A R33 GTS25 will run high 16's stock.

My steering rack started leaking a while back in my R33, I got it checked out by a mechanic, and he found that it was the rack seals that were leaking. So all the rack seals needed to be replaced, I just about fell over when they told me the price of getting new seals ($550NZ). What I ended up doing was buying a 2nd hand steering rack ($200). You could try NULON powersteering stop leak, It managed to stop the rack leaks in my old prelude, could be worth a try.

Heres a few power specs, R32 GTS25 142kw R32 GTS 116kw R33 GTS25 142kw R33 GTS25 type S 147kw

The R32 GTS-T, have a diff ratio of 4.3:1 both auto and manual have the same ratio. For the R32 GTS25 the ratios are, manual 4.3:1 auto 3.5:1 I don't know about the R32 2L gts.

Assuming the turbo diff you got has a 4.1:1 ratio the speedo will read lower than the actual road speed. Hope that helps.

Yep the 2.5 is better and it is the same in the R32's