skyla

the factory ratios for a GTS25 are, 4.3:1 manual 3.5:1 Auto I'm not quite sure about the turbo, but I think they could be 4.1:1 for a manual diff. If the diff you got is geared higher/lower than factory, the speedo will not read true. When I had my old auto diff 3.5:1 still in the car after we converted it to manual, the speedo red 80km when we were actually doing 100km road speed.

The fastest N/A's down the strip I know of are actually the R32 GTS25's, they come out factory with 142kw at the flywheel. With a bit of work they can run low 15's. Even though the type S R33 tend to make a little bit more power(147), the extra weight of the R33 works against them. But give me a R33 any day

Yep, the turbo engine will fit into a NA engine bay no probs.

Yeah, I get about 450km if I'm driving nicely. I have been told that by replacing the o2 sensor after about 50,000 km helps improve the cars economy, thats if the car starts using more fuel or is running rich. Mines got a 2 1/2" exhaust, extractors and K&N panel filter.

It is my understanding that the suspension set up is the same and you can put the turbo suspension into a non turbo. I've been told basicaly the only difference between the two is the quality, the turbo model cars get upgraded shocks and firmer springs. Can anyone verify this.

you can buy workshop manuals at JPNZ for $250NZD I know they have R32 and R33 but not so sure on the R34.

you can keep the compression ratio 10:1, but you can only run relativly low levels of boost, I might be wrong, but I think it was about 8psi tops, any more boost and you start running into problems.

Hiya, A mate of mine has a R32 4dr with a badly cracked windscreen. We have managed to find another windscreen at a good price, but it's off a R32 coupe, anyone know if the windscreen from the coupe would fit his 4dr. Help greatly appreciated Rach

JPNZ have R33 workshop manuals for $250NZD.

Hi, I have kings fitted to my car, and still using the standard shocks. They really help to improve the handling of the car, miles better than standard and not bumpy at all. It was great to start with, but noticed very quicky (2 months) the deterioration of my factory shocks, now 12,000km later my factory shocks are totally buggered and need to be replaced. So in my experience, if you can afford to do the shocks at the time you get the car lowered, you might as well go ahead and do the shocks. Just wish we had done it then:(

1kw = 1.34hp If your car had say 168kw, you would have 225.12hp 168kw X 1.34 = 225.12hp thats how I've worked it out in the past anyway, just hope it's right

The expence of a clutch kit will depend on what you go for, standard is cheaper, but if you go for a heavy duty kit, you naturally pay more. But if you are going to race the car down the strip or around the track it's well worth the extra dollars.

Is the car an automatic?

Thanks dude:)

Was it a 25 or just the 2L, as I've seen a couple manuals in the 2L 4dr.

Just wondering if any of you guys know if the R33 GTS25 4dr, ever came out with a 5 speed manual from factory? Thinking about it I have only seen them in auto, but seen plenty of manual coupes. When we converted ours it didn't even have a pre cut hole for the clutch master cylinder, we ended up having to drill one, which kinda led me to believe they didn't come out that way from factory.

In my owners manual it says to run GL-5 80w-90 diff oil

My car did something very similar, but only on start up. In my case it was a filthy afm, I took the afm out and gave it a clean with throttle body cleaner. I put it back in and started the car, and no more problem. You could give it a try, you have nothing to lose.

Err when mine was put into the car it was part of the auto to manual conversion. Sorry dude, I can't help ya out there. Just as a guess I'd think it would take somewhere between 2 to 3 1/2 hours maybe? anybody know?

You can just replace the thrust bearing, the bearing it's self is not that expensive. I think mine was about $45 for the bearing, the expensive part was paying for the mechanic to put it in.

Does any body know what the stock fuel pressure for a GTS25?

Ok, so you are going to go turbo. Have you thought about buying a GTS25T that has been witten off in a accident, that way you will have all the bits you need and just swap them over to your car. Stronger engine, gearbox, better brakes, suspension and not to mention intercooler. 1 1/2 years ago we looked into turboing ours, we found the cheapest way was to buy a wreck ($3000) and change all the bits over. We didnt do it, and $3500 later I still haven't broken into the 15's for the 1/4, if only we had turboed it. Just something to think about. And with your sort of budget you should be able to upgrade the exhaust system, CAI, intercooler, boost controller and a few other bits as well.

Would a dirty afm cause the car to run lean? I cleaned the afm today as it was black with dust, and had little bits of plant and insects stuck in the mesh, now the car idles alot better.

Or are you talkin about the 2 L GTS?

righto, heres a run down on my research so far, figures are aproximate power gains and bang for your bucks (nz dollars) extraxtors 5-6rwkw $350 Nos (50hp shot) $1600 cam gear inlet only 2-4rwkw $250 cam kit (run with standard ecu) 10% gain $795 SAFC II 10-12% gain (tuned) 2nd hand $450 hope that is of some help.