Silver_GT

Dapto Clutch and Brake Champ. (Or Dapto Brake and Clutch, Whatever way around it is) Theyre in Marshall St. Giv em a bell before u go there to see if they got the time, they dont actually do work on cars tho, you'll hafta pull em off urself and them them in.

Cheers mate, i was thinking something like using an r33 aac aye, still dunno if im gonna bother, was gonna get a china copy, it'd be purely for looks, but im guessing that the variable butterfly thing in the standard plenum isnt there for no reason? it probly help with low down torque or something? who knows. Also i hate how the factory plenum goes over the top of the motor, kinda silly if you ask me, but im no engineer and i might just save the forward-facing plenum for if and when it gets a turbo, althought if i end up doing it a write up will be done for all to see

if the engine lights on the ecu will be giving out a fault code, not going to go into detail here, its been covered many times. but you can check your ecu codes by bridging the top right two pins on your consult connector and switching the ignition to on. Download the manual it goes into detail on how to read the codes and what they all mean.

Upon further inspection it would seem the Neo used an idle control motor on the side of the TB, Where r33 uses an aac valve? correct me if im wrong? But the question still remains, although if im right, im thinking the standard TB wont fit on a forward facing plenum, leaving the motor with no idle control? I need to look into it some more as im probably wrong. EDIT: so the neo has an AAC valve also, ive just confused myself, back to square one!

Title basically states it all, looking at getting a R33 Greddy Style Intake Manifold for my N/A R34, But Ive noticed that the IACV (im sure there are other things) and the manifold in general are different to the R33, so it would seem? I know it'll bolt onto the motor and all, but wondering if all the other gear will bolt onto the manifold properly? Someone im sure has looked into this deeper than i can (dont have an r33 sitting here to compare to ) So anyone who can shed light on the situation would be gretly appreciated Cheers

The amount of people saying you have to run 0G/1G Cable is crazy, its not necesary, 4G can handle it quite sufficiently, in saying that ive run 2G To be on the safe side, Although my battery isnt in the back yet so its only running my amp. Running the cable is easy, down the drivers side and under the black metal thing under the rear seat, getting it into the boot was a bit of a mission but wasnt incredibly difficult. i ended up putting a New Grommet in the firewall though (top left corner) as 2G doesnt bend easily, and i wanted the cable tucked away as best i could.

cheap multimeter = $20. You Wont look back.

Lucky people getting under 10L/100, im only getting 12.5 as a Personal best!

i thought i saw a pea shooter exhaust on your car haha, guess who. quite possibly the fpr not being set right giving you issues, reset the comp, check for vacuume/boost leaks and take it to a tuner and get ur afr's checked out, tuning while on the dyno is gonna give you the best results, and the tuner there can probly spot any problems. Shit idle sounds like a vac leak usually, specially if its after u changed stuff.

R34 N/A ive set my idle at 650 when warm I get 12.8L per 100km (bout 400km till the light comes on) Not great for a daily but seems like a good number for a skyline?

looks like the back one has some gutter rash? whats the condition of all of them? Much scrubbing on your car? mines about 3" lower than urs, so it might cause some issues

x2 on offset and location ?

f**king Excellent! My GT will do 2's with a bit of brake feather, but goes back to single as soon as you get more than like 30 degrees of angle, i know whats next on my shopping list EDIT: do the stock driveshafts bolt up?

probly pretty even ay...

lockers have never really bothered me to drive with, probly a personal preferance, but i have resisted the urge to lock it n id rather sort out an lsd, so let me know how yours goes

Let me know how it all goes once you get it done man, or do a write up, im getting tempted to weld my centre

Will this throw the speedo out? With the GTR diff i mean? Can i use my crown and pinion in the gtr diff housing, to keep my ratios the same, as the de needs all the help it can get And im gusiing GTR axles will be required also?

So We;re saying that if i buy a r33 gtst diff and driveshafts, ill be sweet to bolt this into my 34GT?

tps = throttle position sensor, its on the side of your throttle body, sticking the multimeter probes in the back of the plug on the top and middle pins, you should get 0.4 volts with the throttle closed.

That was my next port of call, was yours only giving you issues at very light throttle? My TPS is adjusted 100% to where it should be, and it still doing it, but only very very slightly, and i can more hear it than feel it.

Anyone notice the r34 smokin it up on the brake in the trailer? Deffo a 2wd model Still Cool Tho

its annoying that nobody knows aye lol. Ive heard r33 gtst diffs will bolt straight in (the whole housing) but ive also heard that they wont. I might have to just find out myself.... I also dont wanna change my final drive ratios so it might be hard to find a "bolt in" Nissan Diff

get yuor 17mm or whatever it is, grind down the outside of it till it fits, get your nuts off and go buy some rays nuts.

ok so after driving to and from work today, the problem is still there, but only very slightly and its nowhere near as violent, all signs point to me not adjusting the tps accurately enough, does anyone know if its supposed to be done with the engine cold (as heat generally creates more resistance, and the tps being a varistor, heat may alter its readings?)

They Just Plug in as far as i know champ