I would love to hear from other R34 GT-T owners who drag, specfic suspension setups that you found to work would be awesome!
Any other info would be great regarding traction, as drew mentioned, if i could get specific info on what to use that would be really helpful.
Car is completely standard other than wheels and tyres.
Rear tyres are 255 17's and are Bridgestone Potenza RE050A.
Other than slicks or semi slicks or wider/bigger wheels and tyres, what is the next step in improving traction? Suspension, camber, toe angle, etc..
Make: Nissan
Model: R33 GTS-T
Milage: 91,XXX KM's
Transmission: 5 SPD MANUAL
Location: SYDNEY
Currently registered? Yes -- until January 2010
Contact: Charlie
PHONE: 0418793736
Completely standard except for:
BBS Forged Alluminum wheels - 17x9 front 17x10 rear (tyres 245 front, 265 rear)
2 Spare front tyres
2x80 WRMS Response Amp, Response 6.5" Split Speaker system
No headunit - but audio setup currently allows direct connection to laptops, ipods, mobile phones etc..
Strut brace (not fitted)
Heavy Duty clutch fitted at 89,XXX km
Reasonable offers only. I know what the engine and gearbox alone are worth so i have a rough estimate of what im looking for.
Hit a car with a towbar as it was reversing from a driveway.
Pics below.
Front tyres - Pirelli P6 - 80% tread - 235/45/R17
Rear tyres - Bridestone Potenza RE050 Run flats (not in picutres below) - 80% tread - 255/40/R17, previously fitted with 265/40/R17 (Pictured below) but tyre shop didnt have stock.
Spare front tyres - Falken - 60% tread - 235/45/R17
Lock nuts included.
Minor gutter rash, quoted $100 per wheel to fix.
Prefer to swap for stockies + cash my way.
$2000. Pickup Sydney.
Pics below to see how they fit.
Hey, dont worry mate i dont take offence.
I know everything that needs to be done but i like talking about it as it helps me make a better decision.
Thanks for all the input everyone. The way i word things isnt great either but all of you get what i mean
Hopefully you will all see me at a track day soon and we can tear it up
Cant wait.
Semi slicks were second hand so i bought em for the sake of it lol I run RE050 tyres now, use the semis for the track which is rarely.
The car is just for street i dont want hard suspension because the hume highway, canterbury rd etc... are a f**ken pain in the ass !!!!
I did mention i have an aftermarket ECU (computer) in my first post, just didnt mention which one. And i rather not say as not to get laughed at
The wheels are actually 17x10.5, they dont hang out but they are basically in line with the wheel well and they miss the suspension by about 1cm, which is why i went wider instead of 18's. Ill show you pictures. Front wheels are 17x9, i forgot to mention that.
My mate at the workshop didnt say the MAP would make a huge difference but he did say its better than an AFM for later when i do start going breserk on tuning
Are there any other bolt ons other than throttle body, plenum, fuel rail, injectors and up the sparking package. Can i just buy all the parts, bolt em together then swap em into the car? Or is it a little more than that?
Thanks guys
Believe me guys i know the importance of suspension, grip, tuning but for now my main aim is power from bolt ons.
I want to basically buy it from the shop and put it on myself then get it all tuned.
Reason being is i just want to look good on the dyno sheet for now ... ill fix the rest up a little later down the track.
Im after more power.
Car is at a workshop right now, before i get it tuned i want to bolt on as much shit as i possibly can, then ill look at the suspension.
Airbox, pod, AFM, front mount, computer, high flow t28, boost controller, custom low mount manifold, full exhaust, screamer, BBS 17x11, semi slicks, fuel pump, fuel reg... what else can i bolt on to maximize the above?