firebladejr

Just wondering what everyone else thinks about the G-Tech Pro performance meters. I was thinking of purchasing one to get 1/4mile times and just to do some general testing. How accurate are they? Are they anywhere near as good as taking the car to the track?

I had a Mazda RX-3 with a 13B turbo. Was much quicker than the skyline but definetly down on the luxury items (no a/c, p/s, etc). The previous owner managed a 12.1 ET in it before selling it to me. After going with my dad for one of those 'L' drives, we came across my dad's fav car.. a 911. I gave it a good boot and went very good against the porsche, however I don't think it impressed my dad all that much and the following week while I was at work the car was sold by my folks Dad seemed to think it was a little too quick for an L plater.

$125... that included dyno tuning, boost adjustment and fixing up my bad boost gauge install

well it got tuned tonight! I didn't get any major figures but I'm happy for now, and it's running alot better. It got 168.1 rwkw on the dyno and boost peaked at 13psi (drops back to 10psi). I must say though that the guys at unigroup were great. Very professional and really took care with the tune. They did about 6-7 runs on the dyno and took the time to explain everything to me. They definetly know their stuff, I can highly recommend to them to anyone.

ok all done. For those that are going to do this here are some tips: The hose that you need is the one that goes from the actuator (a goldish coloured hat-shaped thing in front of the turbo) to the intercooler piping up near the airbox. You will notice a T-Piece in this hose, that t-piece goes into the boost solenoid. Start by pulling the t-piece out. In it's place put your bleed valve, remember to plug the side of your bleed valve that is supposed to be attached to the actuator line into the side of the hose closest to the actuator. With the extra hose that comes off the solenoid, I simply put a screw in it to keep it blocked. And that's it! Should take about 10-20 mins. It really is a simple job once you find out which hose to use

I was told not to cut any hoses? If you cut the hose you won't be bypassing the factory solenoid in which case you will get your boost increase after 5000rpm. From what I've heard u don't need to cut the hose but simply "unplug" the hose from both sides of the solenoid and add in ur bleed valve. Does anyone have a pic of their bleed valve installed? It would help heaps as I plan on tuning the boost tomorrow.

is the boost solenoid that metal thing that is near the strut tower and air box? Whatever that thing is I have taken the two rubber hoses off the top of it (one goes to actuator the other goes into the turbo) and placed the bleed valve in between the two. The valve is a DNA Motorsport valve and it doesn't seem to be boosting more than standard (about 8psi) so I'm not sure if that was the correct hose... It's too hard for me to test boost now anywayz so I might leave it till tomorrow. The neighbours have the shits, its raining and dark and all i get is sideways everytime I put my foot down

I've had a closer look at the solenoid and connections. It looks like one connection goes into the intercooler piping and one into some bronze coloured hat-shaped thing (wastegate actuator?). Is this correct?

Ok I've searched the forums to get some info in installing a boost controller and now know to make sure that the correct side of the manual boost controller is mated to the wastgate actuator and the other side to the turbo compressor housing. My question is: In a r33 gts-t which side of the hose (once both sides are removed from solenoid) is the wastgate actuator side? I'm not sure if it is the side closest to the firewall or the side closest to the front of the car. By "side" I mean when standing on the passenger side of the engine bay looking down at the solenoid, one side of the hose is connected to the cabin side and the other to the front side of the solenoid. I don't know which side is what. Also, once I disconnect these hoses from the actuator, I am going to have a left over hose from the solenoid... what do I do with it? Plug it? thanks in advance.

pics please [email protected]

Well I hope not! I have asked all of the companies the same questions. I didn't add or take from the job mentioned above, that way I can compare quotes for the same amount of work. I suppose some of them are either dumb ie. don't know what an safc is and are too afraid to ask so they over quote to get rid of me, or they're just plain rip-offs! Thanks T0nyGTSt, I called Unigroup first as they're only 5mins from my house, but no one was there so I left a msg. Meanwhile ProCar at DeeWhy (yes, it's a fair hike) called me back and gave me a reasonable quote of $125 or under. The guy on the phone was nice and seemed to know what he was talking about compared to the other companies mentioned above (except for BD4s) so i booked in for saturday after next

I need ur recommendations on a workshop to tune my safc. I've called a few places and the prices vary heaps, some are ridiculous! This is what I've asked for when calling: I have a R33 GTS-T, 3" turbo back exhaust, 12psi, and a different filter. I would like a price for tuning an already installed Apexi SAFC on the dyno please. (there's my scripting for the day ) So far my quotes are: Hills Motorsport $600 ---- WTF???? Croydon $400-450--- another WTF???? BD4s $135-145 (not too bad..) Obviously Hills and Croydon have no idea what they're talking about. Can anyone recommend somewhere else in sydney? I'm from Parra area but can travel to Penrith or East no problems. Thanks in advance.

Hi ppl, I'm after a K&N filter element for the stock r33 airbox. An Apexi or HKS element would be fine as well. Must be able to send to Sydney. Cheers.

ok I've been in a similiar situation.. The story is way too long to list here but I'll keep it simple. Basically I was on probation for a year (had 2 weeks left). I got pulled over going through an amber light, under the speed limit and was followed by another car. About 1km up the road a cop hit the sirens and pulled me over (letting the guy that went through after me keep going). Both cops stated a "red light" offence. I argued amber until I turned blue. Heaps of attempts to defect the car were made (wheels, exhaust, headlights, suspension, etc) however I also argued out of these. As i was near home I called my dad and asked him to come down to be a witness. I refused to talk and locked the car until dad got there. Ended up taking it to court with a lawyer and I won the case. Nothing satisfies like the feeling of beating unfair cops the legal way and smiling at them the whole way out of the court room In this case I wasn't doing anything wrong and can honestly say that for the whole time I was on probation I truly did behave myself. Also, to the previously mentioned post re getting ur car stolen and needing cops for help.. bwaaahahahahah They will never help with that. I have 5 experiences with that, yes thats FIVE. Not once was I helped satisfactorily. I was actually asked once after the cops arrived at the scene "well what do u want us to do? call the theft hotline"... dumb bastards. Good luck m3boy, I hope u get the outcome ur after.

cleaned the dash again with metho and then used velcro from supercheap... works great. Thanks guys!

u know i was actually thinking of using sika-flex (spelling?) to "glue" it to the dash... the good thing about that stuff is that it turns rubbery (like a gasket) and might peel off (bit of a risk if it doesn't though)

I'm trying to stick my apexi safc to the dash but I can't get anyhting that will hold After some advice I went and bought outdoor/automotive double-sided tape from Dick Smith but it still doesn't work...same problem with my mobile holder. Can anyone recommend some sort of double-sided tape that will stick it to the dash, and not come off in the summer heat? I've thoroughly cleaned the parts of the dash that I'm using for this with metho to make sure there is no oily residue on there, but nothing is working.

ok.. wot I might do is unplug the safc at the apexi harness/clip... i suppose if the car runs crap or doesn't start then its working. I beleive this will effectively stop the AFM from working as this is the only wire that is actually intercepted from the ECU and therefore relies on the safc. The other connections shouldn't make a diff as they are only tapped in. Is this right?

ok.. I thought i'd test-tune it to see if it works. Now I'm a bit concerned... Ok to test it I thought i'd use the aftermarket BOV problem and see if I could get it working. Problem is I don't have an aftermarket BOV Anyway, I undid the vacuum tube that goes into the passenger side of the BOV (it's about an inch in diameter) and then plugged it up so that it doesn't leak vacuum on idle. Next I took the car for a spin and found out that it definetly stalls (about three times whilst going around the block). I thought I'd play with the Dec Air settings on the safc and see if that helps. I read a post from JimX (did a search) and got settings like Thr: 5% N1: 15% N2: 7.5% which are supposed to solve the BOV problem... turns out it's still exactly the same I thought I'd try and change the Lo throttle setting (1000rpm) and up the fuelling until I got it to idle properly... well I upped it all the way to 20% and the problem still exists. Question is: Is there anyway that I can check if the SAFC is actually working? In the monitor menu everything seems to move and I get funky graphs and guages that all work.. but it doesn't seem to adjust the fuel at all. I was thinking of adjusting it to the richer side (less chance of engine damage) in the Hi settings, and then taking it for a spin.. if it works i assume that it will run like a pig at more than 46% throttle (my Hi throttle point). Will this work? Is my BOV theory correct or is there a difference with a/m BOV's that I'm missing? thanks in advance..

yeah I figured it out the hard way... The diagram is of the ECU pinouts as you said... Just a note to anyone installing an SAFC onto an r33: To get an accurate presentation from the wiring diagram make sure you look at the wiring harness/plug from the wires-in side, not from the mating side. Anyway.. its all in and working now

ok... now some problems Checking the pin chart from the apexi guide it seems i'm missing some wires in the ECU. Basically I know I'm not looking at the chart upside down as the power and earth/ground wires are hooked up and working fine. Problem is I don't have an AFM wire. Did anyone else have this problem? Does anyone know what colour the AFM wire is?

ok done... I've got power to the safc and it lights up fine Now.. which setting do I have to change to 0 ? I've already gone through and changed the Hi/Lo settings back to 0% at each rpm point. What else do I have to change now? I noticed other options such as Dec Air or something along those lines as well as a few other options... what should I put them at to keep it standard until I get it tuned? thanks in advance.

hey JimX..yeah it was me that bought it from you. I'm thinking that I'll hook it up to earth and power, that should let the unit power up, and then I'll play with the settings (set them back to standard) before connecting it to everything else. I noticed u left the book open on the right page, but that page is for all Nissan's in general and has seperate diagrams for each of them.. the question is which one is the right one? cheers.

Hi ppl, I'm seeking a bit of help from anyone who has installed a s-afc (blue screen version 1) into a r33 gts-t. Firstly I'm not sure which plug connector chart I should be looking at as my Skyline is a '95 model, however it appears slightly different from previous skylines eg. it doesn't have a seperate ignitor for the coil packs like my mates '93 model, and a few other minor differences. Next up.. I've had a look at the wiring diagram which doesn't look too hard (if I can figure out which diagram I should be looking at: see question above), however it looks like I'll have three wires left over. Is the R33 a Hot wire type AFM? If it is then I'd assume that the other 3 wires are for Karman (spelling?) type AFM's.. is this right? Also, one of the diagrams makes attention to the "ground" wires on the apexi unit. It says to make sure that the brown earth wire is connected closer to the ECU than the second, black earth wire. If this is the case, should I simply connect the brown wire to the ECU's earth pin and the black wire to a chassis earth? Lastly, I purchased the unit 2nd hand and as such it has different settings in it. What settings should the unit have in it to keep the car standard? (keep in mind ur talking to a complete newbie here) Thanks in advance for any help you can give. Cheers.

thanx BoOsT_JuNkY... I'm still not sure about installing it, I'm not hopeless when it comes to cars but most of my experience is in car stereo installation, not much to do with engines at all (unless they're rotary!). How long do you think it will take to install the s-afc (wiring, soldering, etc) and do you have to run wires to the computer or to somewhere else? Can anyone recommend a place in sydney to get the s-afc installed? Preferably somewhere that has done an r33 with a s-afc before. Cheers.